View Full Version : Parts?
05/13/2005, 09:41 PM
When my friend told me I should think about getting a new clutch, what parts exactly is he talking about? He also said steering gearbox too. What parts for that do I need or do they all come in a kit? I`ve tried looking these items up on online parts catalogs but they mention a bunch of individual parts. Also would the steering have been upgraded when it was changed over from a 6 cylinder to an 8? It has 5 lug wheels so I`m sure all the rest was upgraded. I ask cuz the parts sites ask if it is a 6 or an 8 cylinder. Thanks for the help. Don`t hesitate to let me know when I`m becoming a pain guys. ;D Rhonda
05/14/2005, 04:52 AM
The clutch itself usually has just 4 parts, and all 4 should be replaced at the same time. You have the throw-out bearing, the clutch disk, the pressure plate, and the little brass bearing that goes in the back of the engine (can't remember what that's called).
Is the problem that your clutch won't release far enough to change gears or because it slips when in gear?
If it won't release far enough to change gears, or if it is choppy when starting out you might want to check the linkage first, you may not need a new clutch at all.
It could be that your clutch linkage is so worn out that pushing on the pedal just moves the linkage all around instead of transferring the force to the clutch. I'd check the linkage first. Just grab the pedal and see if it flops around when you try to move it side to side and up and down. If the linkage is original you might be amazed at how sloppy it is. There is also an equalizer bar under the hood that connects to the frame of the car. The bushings in it also wear out so grab it and see if it wobbles.
My linkage was so badly worn that a smooth start was impossible, especially with 2.79 gears, and I went through a clutch every 3 or 4 years.
If you find the problem is the linkage, and it isn't too badly worn, there are bushings you can purchase to rebuild tighten everything up. If the bushings are totally worn out and you are metal against metal then that's a bigger problem. I don't know if anyone sells rebuilt clutch pedal assemblies, but my guess is that someone must since this is such a common problem.
Hope this helps.
05/14/2005, 10:39 AM
and the little brass bearing that goes in the back of the engine (can't remember what that's called).
The pressure plate can probably be resurfaced. A machine shop can tell you when they look at it. The steering box can be obtained as a rebuilt unit, which is what I would do in your situation, unless you know someone that's rebuilt them before. As for the steering, without seeing it, it's hard to say what was changed other than the spindles. And Rhonda, as for being a pain, it'll never happen. Feel free to ask anything you want.
05/14/2005, 10:46 AM
I think that even with the change from 4 to 5 lug, your steering gear box would not change. Only a different ratio like the guys discussed in your earlier (question about steering) thread. I may be wrong and if I am, these guys will jump on it like a rattler to a leather boot.
My question to you is: Is someone telling you the steering and the clutch issue are related? The reason I ask is because I remember you saying something about the clutch pedal raising or moving when you got to that point in turn your wheel. (question about streeriing thread) I went out and relooked at my clutch/brake pedal bracket (before you think to yourself, aww, what a great guy, climbing up under the dash of his car, I must tell you it's still on the shelf waiting to get installed) and I really don't see how they can be related. Moses is right about the 4 parts to the clutch and yeah the proper part terminology for that brass piece is "little brass cap that plugs into the back of the engine thingie" Right out of the Ford parts manual. ;D I don't remember what it's called, either.
05/14/2005, 04:09 PM
Meadowsdk28, my friend said something about the actuator arm and the steering gears being worn. Also something about bushings. I was looking under the hood at the firewall, down to where the steering rod comes through the firewall. My friend was inside turning the steering wheel and pushing on the clutch. I could see how one piece glided around the other. Also, I am only 5 ft. 1 in. tall and when I first got the car he adjusted the clutch pedal so I could (yes, you can laugh now) reach it. After driving it that way for a few months one day I tried to shift it into reverse after it had been parked for a day and the Hurst shifter was stuck in first gear. The car sat for a few months till another friend fixed it saying the clutch had come loose. Maybe it was that pin I had mentioned earlier? Anyway, when I had it looked at the other day my new/old friend reattached the clutch thingy (LOL) with a nail and he also tightened up the steering gear box. All I know is it still sticks when I turn the steering wheel (when it`s in a low gear) but shifts great as long as I have the clutch all the way down. I think I`m gonna take it to the local Ford dealer and fork out $54.00 an hour and have them fix it right. Do you think they would know what they`re doing?
05/14/2005, 09:01 PM
I just had to say that I`ve been hoping with all the helpful info I`ve been getting on this site, I`d have my friend do all the fixing if I got the right parts. But it seems there is alot of stuff he nor I know what to look for, on getting the right parts. So I figure I`d have somebody at Ford fix it for me and get it right the first time(hopefully). They could probably tell me exactly what it needs. I guess I`m not so sure my friend knows as much as he puts on and I don`t know one part from the other. So I`m going to print out everything you all have told me and hand it to the mechanic at Ford. You guys have been great. Thank you for all the help. :)
05/15/2005, 05:18 AM
Sorry, I wish there were more we could do. Do you not know of any Mustang Clubs in your area? They usually know the low-down of who's good at working on the cars in your area. Ford is fine, it's just that IMO they charge too much for labor and most (not all) the mechanics will not be too experienced in this type of car. Then again, in theory, it should be simpler to deal with your car, than say a 2004 GT giving them the same type of problem, but it's apples and oranges. Experience counts. I still think the key is the bushing in your clutch/brake pedal. It acts soooo much like mine was. Mine was so bad, my acctuator arm would pop off even with a cotter pin in it. I had to put a vary large washer on the end of it just to keep it in place until I could fix it properly.
05/15/2005, 05:31 AM
I kept breaking the Ford arms so I went to the hardware store, bought some all-thread, and made my own. Put one on the trunk just so I'd have a spare. Never needed it. The all-thread is incredibly strong and it screws right in. It's also infinitly ajustable. Just a thought for anyone who needs more adjustment or breaks the standard arms.
05/15/2005, 07:55 AM
Do you not know of any Mustang Clubs in your area? They usually know the low-down of who's good at working on the cars in your area. Ford is fine, it's just that IMO they charge too much for labor and most (not all) the mechanics will not be too experienced in this type of car.
M28 has some good advice. Check with folks at your local cruise's and local car clubs. There has got to be someone in your local area who works on classic cars. And 9 out of 10 times they can do it cheaper and better than I hate to say it "FORD". I took my CS into a local Ford dealer here in my local area just to pick up a part I needed for my LX 5.0. When I drove the car into the service department they didn't even know what it was (Ford or Chevy). Out of curiosity I asked if they could fix it if I needed work and their reply was "we don't work on those things". Check your local phone book under "Automobile Restoration, antique and classic" and see what you find. I would feel much better taking it to someone listed under that area than to a local Ford dealer. They are good on the new stuff but, on the classic cars? ???