Hi all. I just entered my 1968 GT/CS into the registry and uploaded a few pictures. My VIN is 8R01C156325 which should make it easy to find. I recently removed my engine, which is actually probably just fine, but my car has been running terrible and I needed a winter project up here in Alaska. I plan to replace all of the wiring, clean up the engine and engine compartment, and replace the carb which I think is the main source of running bad. Purests will gasp but next year I want to replace the C4 auto transmission with a T5 manual 5-speed to make the car more fun. I am also hoping to install a modern electronic ignition, headers, and other performance parts. I am toying with a custom instrument panel as well. My alternator gauge doesn't work at all and the fuel gauge is very inaccurate. I discovered that despite most of the engine numbers pointing to an original engine, the third digit was an "A" which says it's for a Galaxie. Should be a "Z" for a Mustang. I also have a 4-barrel carb when it should be a 2-barrel. The fact that it's not original helps with the "modify or keep original" decision. I, apparently, already don't have the original engine.

Welcome aboard!
First thing, don't discount that your block is not original because the third letter is an "A". A "C"-code Mustang in 1968 would have a casting code of C6AE-6015-C if a 289 block was available (they ran out in 68 and had to use 302 blocks with 289 innards!). That you have a 4-barrel on it would say that the carb and intake manifold are not original. Not sure about the heads...you would have to check the date codes on them and they should be within 4 to 6 weeks of your cars manufacture date to be considered correct. Also, you can look for a partial VIN stamp in the valley at the back of the intake manifold and if there is one you can check it against your car's VIN.

Here's a LINK (http://www.classicmustang.com/casting_numbers.htm) on casting codes.

Cheers!
Rick

Check the top of the block at the rear for a VIN number. There should be a flat spot right behind the intake with it stamped in. If it's 8R156325, you have the correct block. The casting number refers to the car series the part was originally intended for. Specific parts like mouldings, fenders, etc. will have a Z but things that could be used in multiple lines could have an A or O or something else.

Steve

Cool, it's Highland Green!!!!

Oops, looks like Rick types faster than me.

Steve

Oops, looks like Rick types faster than me.

Steve

Steve,
I was typing for 15 minutes since I had to check my sources to make sure I wasn't talk out my a$$ and at the time CrashKimball and I were the only two members logged on...so I would have to commend your typing speed!:wink:

Welcome to the site and good luck with your CS!

Great info. I'll check the stuff you guys have pointed out. Thanks! This is the first forum of any kind that I have participated in and I'm still learning how to play. I figure I'll mostly benefit from everyone elses vast knowledge. Maybe someday I can return the favor.

Welcome to the site Crash...aren't these guys great with their information?

Welcome to the site!!! Glad to have you here!!!

I would like to say welcome as well. Glad to have ya!!

Paul

Welcome to CaliforniaSpecial.com! I think you'll find this site is an invaluable resource.

Welcome to the site from a fellow "Highland Green" owner! Great group of people here!!