You guys/gals are the experts on the gt/cs mustang so I have a question. I am looking at Ebay item # 2433269817 and would like an opinion, should I get it? I have time to take for the rebuild and storage as well. I have requested the VIN from the owner so that I can verify what I know to look at but I am new to this car and don't get all of the tell tell signs that you seem to. (This is the wifes dream car)

Duran

I have the VIN and build tag numbers

8R01C162320

65A O 2G 28E B7 2 W

So it is a seafoam green coupe from San Jose with a standard interior and a 289, automatic. What else does this tell?

First of all, look at the sellers feedback, a lot of people are unhappy with him. That would make me question his integrity.

But, Here are some red flags:

67 steering wheel/interior
"I don't have the original driving lamps for the front, or the hood twist lock brackets. "
Why would this stuff have been removed?
Incorrect grill
Reproduction Tail light panel
repro side scoop w/ no screen

On top of these inaccuracies, one has to consider that the car is in very poor shape.

With all the work that needs to be done on this one, the value is at tops $2000, and that is if it a authentic GT/CS.

Good points about the car are that it has Original decklid and endcaps. Thats about all the good things I can say about it.

That is what i thought I would hear.... Thanks

There was a GTCS restoration project earlier this week on ebay that was much more complete.. but I don't know what it sold for..or if it was sold

I called the guy and he has a reserve of $6500.00, that is too high.

I called the guy and he has a reserve of $6500.00, that is too high.


:o Wow! Is that US or Canadian $? As much as I love these cars I have to say that's a completely unrealistic price for one in that condition. There is a lot of work to do and several special parts to round up. The engine/tranny not being original won't help it's resale value if you decide to completely restore it. Also, the lack of correct front end parts suggests an accident.

The one with the 6500 reserve is item number 2433097341, it looks nice but there is a ton of work to do. The other one (2433269817) has a reserve of almost 4000 Cn and is a real peice of hmmm metal :-X

The owner of the other Gt/CS ebay auction 2433097341 for $6500 failed to mention that it had been totaled in a flood. Engine is seized, spark plugs were removed years ago and engine was allowed to sit without oil. Its funny how things slip your mind when your ready for the cizzash.

"The owner of the other Gt/CS ebay auction 2433097341 for $6500 failed to mention that it had been totaled in a flood. Engine is seized, spark plugs were removed years ago and engine was allowed to sit without oil. Its funny how things slip your mind when your ready for the cizzash. "

WOW!!! My car, without ANY of the... [ "RUST ISSUES: Most, if not all, classic Mustangs have (had) rust issues - this one is no different..."] rust issues what-so-ever must be worth over 10 grand now then, according to this!? Mine at least runs, too. Any offers??? ;-)

The one with the 6500 reserve is item number 2433097341, it looks nice but there is a ton of work to do. The other one (2433269817) has a reserve of almost 4000 Cn and is a real peice of hmmm metal :-X

Let's get things straight here the 68 CS Ebay auction # 2433097341 is worth the reserve. I have seen the car and I have known the last two owners. I have known the current owner for about 6-7 years and he is a good friend of mine. He has high integrety and is a straight shooter, he tells it like he see's it. He never mentioned the water issue because neither I or any of you would have known it had been in two feet of water. All the water that was in the car after the storm, was vacuumed out about a day or two later. The water did not do any damage to the car except for the carpet and jute liner. These components were removed fairly quick to prevent any rust from starting. The storm did not caused the rust areas he explained in the auction, they had been there before. The cowl leak is very common in these early mustangs so it has to be fixed during the restoration. The little surface rust in 2-3 areas such as on the door and rear quarter are no more than a dime zise, so they should be easy to repair. The engine is out of the car and it shows no external rust. I talked to Jerry ealier today and he is planning to take the engine and have it checked out. He has a reserve of about $6500 - $7000 which includes about $1200-$1500 in new parts. Which in esence he is selling the car for only $5000. This is specially a very fair price for a California Special and is really worth more. Remember this is a C/S and not an ordinary mustang. Most project cars are not in this good a shape. I know because I have restorted a few in the last 25 years. So if you don't believe me come down to Texas and see it for yourself. So Duran, if you are interested in this car you will miss out if you don't buy it. Don't let some of these guys talk to you out of it when they don't know the facts or have not seen the car at all. I have....!!!

Any seller who fails to disclose a car was flooded is not a "stright shooter". Info such as this needs to be mentioned.

a GT/Cs that needs this much work is not worth the reserve of 6500.

First:

"The little surface rust in 2-3 areas such as on the door and rear quarter are no more than a dime size"

Uh dont CS' have fiberglass rear quarters?

Secondly:

Remember this is a C/S and not an ordinary mustang. Most project cars are not in this good a shape. I know because I have restorted a few in the last 25 years.

Dont most of us here own a CS? So we would know its not ordinary, so we might know something every once in a while.

Hello all, this is Jerry - the person who listed the CS for sale on this site. I have some things to say regarding the issue brought up by MRSHELBYDALLAS, so I guess my comments are more directed toward him.

There is, and was, no intent to misguide, mislead, lie, cheat or pawn-off this car, nor any info about this car. I carefully considered the already-existing condition of the car and was very careful to check it out before listing it for sale. I am not out for quick cash or to make a killing on the sale of the car as you seemed to think and state - actually, I will possibly loose some on it. Also, you mentioned that the other CS car for sale had some questionable feedback on eBay - why didn't you also mention MY feedback on eBay? It is not questionable and does not cause suspicion, and I had worked at maintaining GREAT feedback ratings.

I think it would have been more mature of you to have had the decency to e-mail me and check out your details before listing your ERRONEOUS AND FALSE statement about the car being totaled. The car WAS NOT totaled - there is a non-salvage, clear Texas title as stated in the ad. Where did you get your information? I called the previous owner today and spoke with him - do you know him personally? The car was not totaled. He did not have insurance on it at the time. If you want, e-mail me and give me your name and phone number and I will give you his phone number and you can call him yourself. This also applies to anyone else who would like to call the previous owner.

As far as the flood issue, yes, it was invloved in a flood. The car did not stay in water, was towed to another person's house and the interior was removed, it was cleaned out, and dried out. There was not three feet of mud to remove - it was water. Any rusting was not a result of the flood, the cowl leak is not a result ot the flood (IF I AM OUT TO MIS-STATE OR MISLEAD SOMEONE, WHY WOULD I GO TO THE EXTRA TROUBLE TO CHECK OUT THE CONDITION OF THE COWL AND CHECK FOR LEAKS?)

Someone earlier mentioned that he thought the 1/4's were fiberglass - sorry, but they are production Mustang sheet metal - not fiberglass. So, there is the possibility of rust there as well.

I appreciate my friend that stood up for me - I think he was as P/O'd about the comments as I was. If you want to look at the car and judge for yourself the condition, feel free to write or e-mail. If you are unable to afford it, oh well ! As far as the reserve that was mentioned above - that is FALSE AS WELL - THIS PERSON DID NOT CALL ME OR SPEAK WITH ME AS HE STATED. He sent me an e-mail and asked for the reserve - I gave him a range of $6000 - $7000, and he apparently took that for $6500 as he stated above.

Thanks for this board and your time,

Jerry jebo68r@aol.com eBay rating of 385

The owner of the other Gt/CS ebay auction 2433097341 for $6500 failed to mention that it had been totaled in a flood. Engine is seized, spark plugs were removed years ago and engine was allowed to sit without oil. Its funny how things slip your mind when your ready for the cizzash.


As far as "slipping my mind" - as I already stated, it did not slip my mind. By the way, what is 'cizzash' ?

Ok, what is the deal with the 67 interior? If you plan to get what you think this vehicle is worth, you should get a Marti auto works report to verify that it is a genuine GT/CS. Otherwise I think it is overpriced at $1500.00 Sorry....

I think we need to make it clear that there are 2 different CS's that are being discussed on this subject, the one, ebay item 2433269817, is from Canada has a of $4000 Canadan or about 2,967.14 US buy it now. It is the one with the 67 interior and has not been confirmed as a CS.
Now the second CS, ebay item 2433097341, is located in Rowlett, TX just outside of Dallas and has a reserve between $6-7000. It has been confirmed by Marti and by just looking at the pictures I would have said it was a true CS even without the report.
Now as for the price, if you do take away the parts he has purchased, the car is selling for around $4500-5500. I have seen many other Mustangs go for much more in far worse shape. As with any car, it is difficult to judge condition without inspecting the car personnally, ie the extent of rust and cowl condition.
Doug

I apologize for being incorrect on my part of the information.

Looking at the detailed pictures and the great length he went to describe the cars condition I'd say he has represented the car very well without any intent to misrepresent it. As for what it's worth I'd have to agree with the seller again it's his, it's worth what ever he thinks it is. If it's out of your dollar range or priced higher than you think it should be then I wouldn't bid on it. And if no one bids on it the seller has the option to keep it or relist it. As for us sitting in cyberland judging the car I would say that is somewhat unfair as well. If I was bidding that much and had a question about it I'd go look, without looking I don't think we can really judge the condition of the car. On the other hand if a person has questions as to the history or condition just ask, don't accuse. Were all fellow mustang lovers, we never make a person better by making them feel worse.

Cory

Dear Forum,

There is no accussing going on. As for the feedback issue, I was talking about another auction(the canadian mustang) AS for your car, I felt I should mention this to the forum for the buyer to be informed as much as possible. That is the purpose of the forum is to inform. I failed to see anywhere in your description on ebay where the car was previously in a flood, or the engine was seized?? I know as metioned by FAST67 that "He never mentioned the water issue because neither I or any of you would have known it ". This is indeed, is the wrong way to conduct business practices. The consumer should be fully informed, and all previous information about the car should be disclosed whether or not anyone would have known it. This is comparable to someone selling a perfectly replicated shelby, as a authentic shelby. No one would have known it, right? Why tell them? Yours is indeed misrepresentation, as is my previous example.

I just metioned this in passing, knowing that I would like to know this fact in case i was the next owner. And anyone that isn't up front about a previous flood, fails to pass my "on the level" test as well. And "cizzash" is new slang for "mula" for all of you old timers. If you can't figure that one out, I can't really help you. ;D

As for the rust issue, this isn't an easy repair. Anytime high water enters the rocker panels, torque boxes, or frame rails(the insides are not water tight, and are bare metal) the integrity of the metal is compromised by the assurance of the formation of rust. Water was not meant to enter these areas. I consider a vehicle totaled when it costs more to repair the car than the cars blue book value. And I can assure you, to replace the frame rails, torque boxes, quarters, rocker panels, and floorpans, this more than exceeds the current value.

And anytime rust bubbles form and can be seen through paint, you can be assured there is plenty of rust underneath that hasn't peaked its head. The proper way to repair this isnt "cheap, or easy". One has to strip the panel to bare metal and access the situation. Because a patch can not be considered a concourse repair, the proper way to repair quarter rust is to replace the panel(enire quarter panel). A patch can be installed, not cheaply though, and the ever so slight difference in reproduction contouring after painting can be seen unless many numbers of bodyman hours are taken to adjust the surface, resulting in undesirable filler.

AS for proper cowl repair, it isn't cheap or easy. One must drill about 180 spot welds to split the cowl to get inside. Then patch panels must be welded in to replace rusted holes in metal. Those temporary plastic hats and silicone kits are easy fixes, just delaying the inevitable "car surgery".

I can assure you, I did not post this to defame you, or suggest that you are not honest. I know you are not trying to make a quick buck, but asking someone to pay over $6000 for a car that has major current rust issues(floorpans, cowl, quarters, doors), and the undisclosed potential major future issues that haven't yet been accessed from previous flooding(frame rails, torques boxes, rocker panesl). Some things slip the mind sometimes. But a flood should not slip the mind when selling a car. Lets consider my attempt to mention the on the forum is helping you to "inform the customer" . I've been burned many times, as I'm sure we all have, and I don't mind helping others know facts before they buy to prevent them from being burned. You know, It is possible to update your auction information, and have seen no attempts at disclosing info as of this date?

I'm sure that any of you would agree with me that this is the right thing to do? So, please don't have any hard feelings towards me, and see my post as an attempt to help, not to hurt.

MrShelbyDallas,

Some of what you say I can agree with, some I cannot.

Quickly, as far as the frame rail, rocker boxes, etc. being flooded and therefore now having rust that the previous 33 years would not have caused rust - bunk. These areas on a car are not sealed and if there was not rust in 33 years, there would not be rust after being under water for a short time. Also if that were true you could not ever wash your car or drive it in the rain for fear of rust issues. Certainly there are rust issues in these areas - this is common and expected in a car this old. Another car I had was rusted in the areas you mentioned and was not flooded. The cars in the North have these issues and are not usually flooded. No cars from the factory had paint or rust proofing in these areas and are prone to rust here.

I did try to update the ad on eBay, and was not able to for some reason. This is problem encountered by me at other times and by others as well. I wrestled with this issue before listing the ad.

I noticed you did not address the 'car was totaled' issue and you did not mention where you got this. Was this an 'oversight' on your part? You listed information that was not correct. You did not have correct info - you were wrong and by putting that info out YOU misinformed people on this forum - that's what you say is your purpose for bringing up the flood issue. Also, you have not e-mailed me directly and asked for the previous owner's name and phone number - or do you know him?

The rust issues, as far as cost, are not cheap - I know. Many people do not mind tackling the problem themselves and want the experience of doing it. Yes they are work to do, but no out of the realm of a relatively easy repair - I have done so. The main concern is the cowl leak -THAT'S WHY I WENT TO THE EFFORT TO CHECK IT OUT. The bubbling is also am issue that I went to extra effort to take the pics and list it as well so that a potential buyer would be informed.

You have my name and e-mail - who are YOU?

Quickly, as far as the frame rail, rocker boxes, etc. being flooded and therefore now having rust that the previous 33 years would not have caused rust - bunk.

I would have to agree with you on this one. Just because the car took a bath does in no way mean that it is going be assured of rust issues beyond the normal rust issues as some are trying to imply. I worked for several years in a body shop and I have seen cars that for one reason or another found their way into rivers and lakes and in no way did it assure rust issues. As long as the car was brought out and handled correctly it was fine from a rusting standpoint. Left in a swamp for an extended period maybe. I also own and drive a Jeep, it is my 4th vehicle and is simply a toy. Deep water is a part of the fun. They actually make snorkles for them so you can get even deeper in the water. It doesn't have a single rust issue anywhere on it and it's had plenty of baths.

Your rust issues appear to be the normal rust issues to me and from looking at your photos I wouldn't be the least bit worried about the car taking a bath. The car all in all looks to be a pretty good GT/CS project car to me and could be worked into a fantastic car. I've seen a lot of cars in this age group with rust issues a thousand times worse than what it appears your car has and they had never taken a dunk.

Cory

I'm not going to argue w/ anyone anymore. Anyone knows that Water +Bare MEtal+ air= Rust. You can not conclude that this car will be fine without cracking open the frame rail, rockerpanels, and torque boxes. And I assure you, since there was water in them at one time, this accelerated the rust buildup. Normal car washing and raining does not enter these areas, they are closed on the bottom of the car, the only way water can enter is through the tops of these, like the top of the rocker panel, and top of torque boxes(meaning these items must be submerged to have water enter them) You can not argue that one. Normal humidity in the atmosphere does enter them, but this is a process that is a lot slower because of the minimal exposure. The reason peoples frame, torque boxes, and rocker panels rust through sometimes to warrent replacement is because they rusted from the outside to the inside. This happens because mud and other rust accelerants aren't cleaned off the car, and eventually eat through the outside, physically exposing the inside. And your current Jeep frame was made and treated a lot differently than early mustang frames, I agree. I don't care if you worked in a body shop, or have had experience with cars.

I did address the issue of why i classified your car as being totaled. Please be more through in your reading.

I did not misinform anyone on anything. I know what I say is for a fact. As far as where I get my information is none of your business. I don't need to talk to any previous owners, but thanks for the offer. Just consider me an informed individual.

I know you informed people about the rust bubbles. I just wrote about that because of the quick and easy fix FAST67 eluded to.

Rust isn't built on a complex system of horsies, ropes and pulleys, it boils down to simple science. Of course all of you can go on and on about how you don't think there will be a problem, and I don't really care. Your are all welcome to purchase the car if you have the cizash.

This will be my last post concerning this topic. I'm not going to get into an arguement with anyone that doesn't have his/her facts together. I've made my case against any of the un-educated opinions previously posted here. Good luck with the auction!!!

Once again, Mrshelbydallas has not left his name or phone number and has expressed NO interest in correcting his mistake and misleading remark about the car being totaled. That leads me to the idea that your original intent was NOT to make people aware of this - it was more malicious than that. Otherwise you would be equally as concerned to set your record straight and address the questions I asked you. Time to belly up to the bar. Do you know the previous owner? WAS the car totaled as you said - or was this WRONG and MISLEADING information? More of your bad info is below.

Another falsehood that I did not mention in the first rebuttal I made was that the engine is NOT seized. The spark plugs were NOT removed. I have it here and when I first got it I was able to rotate it with a wrench on the crankshaft. I also have now removed the pistons and there is not from what I can tell any damage to the cylinder walls or crankshaft. I will be taking the block, crank, pistions, and heads to a machine shop here locally to have this verified.

This was a running/driving car at the time. It had no mechanical or electrical problems.

Mrshelbydallas - what ever your name is - I am 48 years old and have not heard the term 'cizzash.' Mulah - yea, I've heard that one - but it is obvious that you hang with a far different crowd than I do.

Finally, I HAVE now been able to add a note to the ad that the car was in a flood. As I mentioned above, I tried to do this earlier, but was unable to do so. Those of you who challenge my integrity and honesty can now challenge those of Mrshelbydallas. You can question HIM where he got his incorrect facts.

Once again, thanks for this board - it's been great to read the comments and the info on these cars.

Jerry jebo68r@aol.com

CaliforniaSpecial.com Members:

I have taken the time every evening to read the postings around this area as I find them very interesting as well as informative.

Although, this argument that has sparked needs an unbiased opinion. I do not own a GT/CS vehicle, but I am involved in a corporation that estimates the value of vehicles, as well as the repair value. In addition to that, I have an extensive amount of information regarding engineering and structural setup of cars.

I have taken the time to read this information, as well as view the pictures and have come to this conclusion:

1) The vehicles condition AS IS without the original motor is not worth 6500. The consumer reports for a low end (with original 6 cylinder motor) cuts in at only 5,460.

This vehicle is missing the original motor, which in a consumer based report will drop the value appox 1,000 - 2,000 dollars.

We are now sitting at 3,460 in low condition which is described as:

This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is".

The vehicle in mention is not usable as-is, nor is it remotely close to "low" value condition. The rust issues and flooding information push this vehicle to:

MAJOR RESTORATION status.

The median value of this vehicle is: 1,500
(W/O Extra Added Parts)


The structural integrity of the vehicle has been jepordized by not only AGE (as all cars are) but due to the increased surplus of water that reaches into interesting parts of the vehicle.

One user mentioned that a flood shouldn't cause that much damage, as we all drive in the rain, car washes, etc. One user also mentioned driving a jeep through lakes and ponds.

Note:

The structural engineering of the Mustang was the unibody system - which, should you look under your vehicle, you will notice many solid pieces that run under the car. When you drive through a car wash, water blasts on this part of the vehicle, and only minor beading will reach into foreign parts of the vehicle. Most of this minor beading evaporates quickly enough to elimante the chance of rust.

When you drop your car in a lakebed, water is a state of matter that has definite volume but not a definite shape. This water contours to the shape of the vehicle - reaching areas that most rain and car washes do not enter. The inside of the vehicle, the trunk, the inner structure of the steal. When this car sits for awhile, and then is removed from the flood. Most water will REMAIN in these areas undectably until it evaporates AFTER causing damaging rust.

The integrity of this vehicle is jepordized.

Most newer cars are not built from STEEL - which rusts, but other metals that resist rusting, allowing you to drive your jeep straight through a lake.

The restoration like this is going to cost in excess of 7,000.

Jack Hanson

Well, there has been a lot of verbage thrown around. As the owner of this car from January 1990 to July 2003, no one knows better then I what the condition of the car is, the circumstances during and following the brief period of time the car was in water, how high the water was, etc. I will say this, the car was given immediate attention following the flood and has been in dry storage since that time.

Anyone who is interested in the car, and not interested in verbal sparring, may email me at any time, and I will glad to share the truth with them.

One final point, the part about the engine seizing, etc. is pure bunk.

Jeeps bodies are made of the same steel other car bodies are made of. The treatment before the painting is the only way car manufacturers prevent corrosion. Needless to say, cars of today are prepared way better than cars of the sixties. I am currently working on an 2006 Chrysler vehicle and the doors actually receive an e-coat primer as just a part of the corrosion protection process. There are some areas of the mustang that were untreated sheet steel, not even galvanizing took place, that some mustangs have lasted as long as they did is a testament to dry weather, indoor storage or a caring owner, maybe even all three. If the mustang only got a quick underwater dousing and was properly cleaned and dried afterward I seriously doubt anyone of us could accurately predict how quicker any rust would show up as opposed to what was there already.

BTW, the word cizzash isn't a universal slang for money, unless of course you hang with 14 year old rapper wanna-be's.

Keep on track with the discussion about the GT/CS leave the poor 14 year olds alone =P

Well I guess I started a thread war.. Not the intention, to be sure. I just thought that I would throw in a comment or two. 1) I do think that the current owner should have mentioned the water issue. 2) The water damage will be minor if the interior was removed promptly and the car was carefully attended to. 3) if it were not for the price I would have an interest in the car even with the knowledge that I now posess I feel that the car is worth an inspection.

Duran, I do agree with you on the disclosure part. Regardless of any actual damage that may have occured, something like a "minor" flooding should have been mentioned from the get go.

BrandonB, just trying to keep it lite :)

I have to respond one more time to this post. "Minor Flooding"?????? One way or another, the car was submerged in water. Does water have a mind of its own and decides what percentage of volume to fill in a void? From my experience, but I'm sure some of you "know it alls" will even argue against this, that water takes on the shape of its container. What levels of severity gratifies minor flooding? And Jerry, this is not a debate, nor do I have to give you any information that I do not wish. The point is, you did not disclose the info. PERIOD. Now it is disclosed, and you can watch how much it was worth mentioning by how much your auction closes for :'(

Mrshelbydallas,

You are online now so let's see if you respond to this one.

AGAIN, you prove yourself a LIAR. You mentioned in your last comment that you had posted THAT IT WOLD BE THE LAST COMMENT ON THIS SUBJECT and here you go commenting again. Speaking of 'know-it-alls" - you seem to be the one acting like a know-it-all. You said you did not want to argue this again - you just did it - AGAIN.

You have no integrity, there is no truth in you, and you STILL will not admit you made a mistake and told FALSE information to this forum. You owe this forum and me an apology for your misinformation. Is it so hard for you to admit that you screwed up?

No, you do not owe me anything, but for someone that supposedly wants to "set the record straight" you do not seem to be interested in setting your own record straight. ANYONE who does not state the facts correctly and gives false info has the obligation to set the record straight. I did it - WILL YOU?

Still you are not proud enough of your name to tell us who you are. I want to know and I imagine some others do too.

As far as the auction, I have called the high bidder and told him the whole story and suggested that he look at this forum about this "discussion." If he backs out - that's OK - maybe I learnd a lesson. Maybe even IF the car was not in a flood it would not have sold - who knows. I have been open and forthright - you have not.
I have denied nothing and have been willing to get it out in the open. Maybe we all should know who you are so we can decide if we want to do business with you in the future - your integrity is in question.

By the way, do you also do business on eBay? If so, what is your seller ID so we can look at YOUR feedback rating?

Jerry - I don't mind using my name

Duran,

Russ Furstnow might have a 68 GTCS that is a "major" restoration project for sale. I bought one from him a couple of months ago as a long term project. He is a member of this forum, you might try to contact him and see if he has anything you might be interested with.

Mrshelbydallas,

Did you by chance see the quotations I put by the word minor? I was not present during said flood and chose to err on the side of caution when describing it in my post, I can do that y'know. Just because metal gets wet doesn't mean any damage is done to it.


On a different note, you should really chill out a little, a poor attitude and lack of social grace shows very prominent in the way you write your posts. It is unfortunate you choose this upon the people who share your hobby.

Jerry,
I'm sorry your so upset. You know, people do have the option to change their minds, and I changed my mind and decided to post another comment. This in no way compromised my integrity. I understand that out of desperation, some people find it easier to take their guilt and frustation in the form of anger and accusations. So, Jerry, I forgive you and hope that you will become a active member in the forum. Through future posts and built trust through the forum, I'm sure your online composure and respect will, in time, become respectable again. But only through truthfulness and anger management. And since this topic will be locked in a few, I will like to offer my congratulations on whatever sum of money your auction closes for.

Yeah I think it's time to lock the post. Seems to have gone beyond Mustang related and I don't really see it turning back any time soon.