1968 A/C Vacuum Motors Question

p51 · Mar 18, 2016

I have factory Air on my GT/CS. One of the original "vacuum motors" (really more like an actuator than a motor) has a bad diaphragm. The question is whether these can be repaired? Are there repair kits? Or do I need to buy a new one?

franklinair · Mar 18, 2016

To my knowledge, that specific unit is not reproduced. There is an aftermarket one made but it is different (NPD#18C311-1, $56). Whenever I find an original, I save it. Don't know if they're repairable.
The last time I needed one, Marty had one and bailed me out.

Neil

Ruppstang · Mar 18, 2016

I still have some.
Marty

p51 · Mar 18, 2016

Thanks for the replies...

Just to be clear I'm looking for the vacuum "motor" (that canister thingy) not the vacuum switch (my vac switch is OK)...

From just looking at them I sorta thought that they weren't repairable. I'm not too concerned about originality. I just want to get my heater working again. So, a repo part will do for me. Evidently Motorcraft produces one that will work...

http://www.carid.com/motorcraft/hvac-heater-blend-door-actuator-vacuum-mpn-yh161.html

franklinair · Mar 19, 2016

I'm not sure if the Motorcraft unit has the same mounting configuration. Let me know- for future reference.

Neil

dalorzo_f · Mar 19, 2016

They "can" be repaired, but I've never seen a kit. Difficulty is the tooling to split them open and reseal. Similar to the '68 air motor on the air cleaner base.

I have a dozen or more on the shelf. I've tested many and they are a testament to how well Ford engineered parts back in the day... I have found one out of maybe 20 that failed. If good I give them a light media blast if painted/dirty and they come up looking near new...

p51 · Mar 20, 2016

dalorzo_f said:
... I have found one out of maybe 20 that failed. If good I give them a light media blast of painted/dirty and they come up looking near new...

I must be on the other side of this... 2 of the 4 vac motors on my car are kaput...

p51 · Mar 20, 2016

Quick question... Car has factory Selectaire. I've removed the heater/AC box, replaced the heater core (which was leaking), and am ready to put it back in. But I have now found that the flaps on top of the blower motor (in the center console) are sticking and one vacuum motor controlling the flaps appears to be bad.

So the question... is there a way to get the blower motor assembly out without removing the whole dash? If so, got any pointers or suggestions?

Thanks
James

franklinair · Mar 20, 2016

Its been a while, but here goes;
Assuming the Htr/Evap unit is STILL out of the car, and glove box removed, the blower will come out on that side.
There is a mounting bracket on the blower housing- IIRC with a stud that goes thru the firewall, 2 or 3 buttons that attach the blower outlet to the center A/C vent piece, and two wires for the blower power (one yellow and the other brown??), and of course the actuator that doesn't work.
Also, IIRC the failed actuator is best accessed on the Driver's side.
Wish I were there to help. I can visualize all this, but don't know if I described it well enough for you.
Its such a PITA to work under the dash, I would suggest you accept Marty's offer on the original actuators rather than fight trying to adapt the replacement types.
Hope this helps. If I can help, call me on my cell; 828-507-2530.

Neil

p51 · Mar 20, 2016

franklinair said:
Its been a while, but here goes;
Assuming the Htr/Evap unit is STILL out of the car, and glove box removed, the blower will come out on that side.
There is a mounting bracket on the blower housing- IIRC with a stud that goes thru the firewall, 2 or 3 buttons that attach the blower outlet to the center A/C vent piece, and two wires for the blower power (one yellow and the other brown??), and of course the actuator that doesn't work.
Also, IIRC the failed actuator is best accessed on the Driver's side.
Wish I were there to help. I can visualize all this, but don't know if I described it well enough for you.
Its such a PITA to work under the dash, I would suggest you accept Marty's offer on the original actuators rather than fight trying to adapt the replacement types.
Hope this helps. If I can help, call me on my cell; 828-507-2530.

Neil

Neil,

Thanks much. The evap box is still out. I also read the shop manual and it seems consistent with your description; albeit, your explanation is much clearer and detailed. I need to take out the blower, the hard plastic vent/ducting to the center of the dash (the flaps need some work also - they seem jammed somehow). Looks like this means the radio comes out first but at least I don't have to remove the whole dash. :grin:

Right now I've already got a order in for one of the Motorcraft repo parts in... if it doesn't work or fit easily I'll be sending it back and talking with Marty. And I will report back about quality and fitment...

Thanks again,
James

p51 · Mar 22, 2016

So, I got the blower motor out (Neil, your instructions were spot on). Once out I noticed that the center vent ducting - the accordion-like ducting - from the blower assembly to the center vent is ripped in a couple of places. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Cloth tape? Duct tape? Other?

franklinair · Mar 22, 2016

I'd try Classic Auto Air to see if they carry the rectangular duct. If no help, I'd use a STRONG cloth tape with extra glue/bonding material.

Neil

dalorzo_f · Mar 22, 2016

http://www.altex.com/3-Diameter-FP-301-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-Black-HST3BK-P147292.aspx

p51 · Mar 23, 2016

dalorzo_f said:
http://www.altex.com/3-Diameter-FP-301-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-Black-HST3BK-P147292.aspx

I followed the link but it was for round heat shrink tubing - good idea for fixing the round tubes going to the side vents but not for the center vent which has a rectangular ducting tube like this...

http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/g/aDsAAOSwQYZWxPQj/s-l225.jpg

dalorzo_f · Mar 23, 2016

Ah, sorry... thought you were referring to the round ones....

p51 · Mar 23, 2016

dalorzo_f said:
Ah, sorry... thought you were referring to the round ones....

No problem. I didn't know about this large shrink wrap tubing. Looks very useful and a possible "go to" solution for future problems. Seems like with these cars that when you start to fix one problem you find 5 others... but since this is a hobby "problems" are really "features" :wink:

Aside: It sure seems like this Selectaire A/C system is the most complicated and confusing system on the car (by far). Frankly, if I ever buy another '60s Ford it will be a plus if it does *not* have factory A/C... of course, that's coming from someone who lives in CA. If I were back in Atlanta I'm sure my opinion would be different

dalorzo_f · Mar 23, 2016

I used it when restoring steering columns. Disassemble completely, removing the old dinged up sleeve on the accordion section, blast, paint, replace. The stuff works a treat to replace it...

p51 · Mar 30, 2016

franklinair said:
I'm not sure if the Motorcraft unit has the same mounting configuration. Let me know- for future reference.

Neil

Neil

Just following up on the the Motorcraft YH-161 vacuum motor for factory air conditioning...
(1) Fits just like the old ones. The actuator arm is extra long with a number of mounting holes so that it can be easily cut for the right length (see photo in link below)
(2) Works fine. Holds vacuum. Needs about ~8psi to retract fully (vs ~5psi for the single working original motor I have)
(3) Metal on the top, black plastic on the bottom - does not seem to be as well made as the originals (no major surprise there). Has an "auto parts store" quality/look to it
(4) It's a Ford part (has "Ford" stamped on it) and on the box says "Majority of components manufactured in US" but Amazon website says "China"
(5) Clearly not an option for a Concours restoration
(6) Got 4.8 stars (out of 5 stars) on Amazon reviews
http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-YH161-Motor-Assembly/dp/B000C5HZBK

James

franklinair · Mar 30, 2016

Good info for all to share. Thanks.

Neil

1968 A/C Vacuum Motors Question

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