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1968 Lights flickering during idle

390gtmustang

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
108
Location
Rockwall Texas
I am having problems with my 68 hcs mustang light , when Im idling my lights (headlights and console lights ) would flicker on and off to a point, if i dont put gas on it ,will be off totally. While running car is fine all lights work. Any sugestions ? Thinking about going LED lights but my car is stock original and dont want to mess with it if I dont need too.
Thanks in advance
 
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390gtmustang

390gtmustang

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
108
Location
Rockwall Texas
I am having problems with my 68 hcs mustang light , when Im idling my lights (headlights and console lights ) would flicker on and off to a point if i dont put gas on it will be off totally. While running car is fine all lights work. Any sugestions ? Thinking about going LED lights but my car is stock original and dont want to mess with it if I dont need too.
Thanks in advance

fog lamps + parking lights, does samething
headlights + fog lamps, wont stay on

like i dont have enough juice
 

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Buy a relay kit from Rocketman. Can be installed quite easily so it can't be seen, no cutting, if it fails you can plug back into the OEM in about 1 minute.

I put them on all my Mustangs and the headlights are brighter and no more rev related brightness variations or overheating switch putting them in strobe mode...

I bought the HRKF-A

http://rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-hrk-all
 

teamlo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
259
I had a similar problem on my '68 GT coupe, though not to the degree you are experiencing. I was running one of the reproduction "concours correct" Autolite voltage regulators, but one which was not electronic. I switched to a chrome Motorcraft electronic voltage regulator and the problem went completely away. Just a suggestion. Short of that, I'd say an alternator issue or a loose connection somewhere.

Terry
 
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390gtmustang

390gtmustang

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
108
Location
Rockwall Texas
I had a similar problem on my '68 GT coupe, though not to the degree you are experiencing. I was running one of the reproduction "concours correct" Autolite voltage regulators, but one which was not electronic. I switched to a chrome Motorcraft electronic voltage regulator and the problem went completely away. Just a suggestion. Short of that, I'd say an alternator issue or a loose connection somewhere.

Terry

do you have a part no.? I will try this first and see
 

teamlo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
259
do you have a part no.? I will try this first and see

National Parts Depot. Item 10316-1. $36.95

I bought mine from NPD. I'm sure other vendors carry it as well. It's a Motorcraft piece. Bolts up just like the stock one, just looks different (chrome, lower profile). Mine has worked great.

Terry
 

franklinair

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Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,740
I always use a solid state VR. Then I install an original cover on it. The best of both worlds: state of the art function, original appearance.

Neil
 
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390gtmustang

390gtmustang

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Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
108
Location
Rockwall Texas
I always use a solid state VR. Then I install an original cover on it. The best of both worlds: state of the art function, original appearance.

Neil

Neil,
have part no on that and where to buy?
I am gonna give it try this weekend, let you guys know what happens.
Thanks for all the reply
 

franklinair

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Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,740
NPD P/N 10316-1 ($39). I would think any parts house (NAPA, Adv Auto, etc) has them in stock. Its basically a 12V solid state VR. Nothing exotic.

Neil
 
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390gtmustang

390gtmustang

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Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
108
Location
Rockwall Texas
Update

Thanks to everyone. Replacing that voltage regulator, sure did fixed it, you guys are awesome.

UPDATE: Replaced Voltage regulator, thought I fixed problem but not, good news is I kinda Know where to look now. Everytime I have my foot on the brake pedal thats when my lights goes off, not the headlight just the dash and park lights. Yank off wire to the brake switch noticed one of the wire connector is melted bad. Looks like brake switch is new, I will get a new wire connector tomorrow and will update this post, I hope i just have a bad wire connector.
 
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somethingspecial

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Joined
Aug 13, 2005
Messages
1,795
Why did it melt?

My first concern is Why did it melt? Remember the tail lights and fog lights are linked together and they run through the headlight switch. Check the entire circuit when you put a new pigtail on to try to determine why it melted. JMTCW.
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,740
Make sure the brake lite switch terminals are not touching any metal surfaces (shorting power to ground).

Neil
 

x-codegtcs

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Joined
Sep 5, 2002
Messages
549
Location
Kaysville, UT
Just don't feed the gremlins after midnight! And no water!!!

I would check in your trunk to see if there's any damage to the tail light harness.
 
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390gtmustang

390gtmustang

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Mar 8, 2012
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108
Location
Rockwall Texas
Ok check 2 wires on brake switch one has 12 volts and other one grounded to negative. Thats why everytime I step on my brake its just shorting out on the pedal switch and making my lights flicker to a point turning off, I also noticed like my engine idle kinda gets rough when I have my foot on the brake. I have short somewhere. I started to check my cables in the trunk all looks good. Pulled the driver side plug to tail light, wire still gounded pulled the passenger side plug its good, wire not grounded anymore. I tried pluging one side and wire grounded again, as long as i have one plugged in , the wire remains grounded. Or maybe Im just measuring continuity of the bulb. I will pull out my tail lights tomorrow and see whats making it short out to ground.
 
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robert campbell

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Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
Do not rule out the blinker switch. I would go there before I spent a bunch of time in the trunk. The a turn signal is just an interrupted brake light and the voltage for the brake lights goes through the turn signal switch. A faulty turn signal switch, which is very common in our cars due to the 6 bulbs in the taillights. LED's are the answer to reduce the voltage draw through the turn signal switch. See link below from our site. Lots of good information

http://californiaspecial.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9663&highlight=turn+signal+switch

Rob
 
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390gtmustang

390gtmustang

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
108
Location
Rockwall Texas
Do not rule out the blinker switch. I would go there before I spent a bunch of time in the trunk. The a turn signal is just an interrupted brake light and the voltage for the brake lights goes through the turn signal switch. A faulty turn signal switch, which is very common in our cars due to the 6 bulbs in the taillights. LED's are the answer to reduce the voltage draw through the turn signal switch. See link below from our site. Lots of good information

http://californiaspecial.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9663&highlight=turn+signal+switch

Rob

Rob,
Thats exactly my problem. I am thinking of just putting a relay on the brake lights, do you think that would help. I dont really want to replace lights led but if needed I will. 2 things I learned from that thread replace headlight switch and brake switch. I know my brake switch is still good, I will get a headlight switch and go from there.
 

robert campbell

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Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
if your turn signal switch is faulty you need to replace. Especially if it jumped and fried your brake switch. No other choice in my mind. Type in turn signal switch in this sites search engine and you will find all sorts or directions on its replacement.

I would not run any GT/CS without at least LED's in the tail lights. Failure is imminent.

Rob
 
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