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For Sale 1968 J code HCS

di81977

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2006
Messages
438
I have decided to sell my 1968 High Country Special. Pictures and Marti report are below. As you all know, not many 68 HCS's come up for sale each year.

I am selling it for a lot less than I have invested in it. But I figure with this market, whatever I buy next will also be at a good price. And, for what it is worth, NADA average value is higher than my asking price.

Here are the particulars - J code, C4 auto, candyapple red, black std interior. Car is in pretty good condition. Seats, carpet, dash all recently redone, engine compartment was media blasted and painted. Paint is decent quality – a nice five footer.

Upgrades –
o) Car has a 393 stroker (351W) with scat crank, aluminum heads, edelbrock intake, holley 700DP, hooker super comp headers, mallory comp s/s and HyFire 6AL ignition, ford racing valve covers and much more.
o) C4 with professional high performance rebuild using top end components (kolene steels, alto red clutches, etc) and a 2800 rpm torque converter
o) B&M Quicksilver shifter
o) Rear Diff – Ford 8” with fresh Auburn limited slip and 3:55 gears
o) Front disc brake conversion
o) GT package (not original) – cut out rear valance, dual exhaust, correct exhaust tips, GT wheel caps
o) Upgraded radiator – big block, 3+ row
o) High CFM electric fan with shroud, variable speed controller and overflow tank

This car can be brought back to original condition very easily and comes with the following items:
o) Additional engine (was running strong when pulled from car). Appears to be a 302 4V with many numbers correct components
Block- C8OE-6015-A, no vin stamped on the pad
Intake- C8ZE-9425-A
Carb- (from tag) Autolite C8ZF
Air cleaner
Distributor and coil
o) Small Block Radiator
o) Jack
o) Matching 5th argent styled steel wheel
o) Orginal shifter
o) Correct HCS side scoop decals along with several reproductions I had made up

Main issues with the car are:
o) A couple of rust blisters on the driver side in front of rear wheel well. The car has been in the dry climate of Colorado for most of its life and I have owned the car for a while. These showed up a year ago, my guess is water got down there from a washing
o) A few splits/cracks in the paint on the top of the passenger side rear quarter.

There is a lot more I can share with you about this car. Feel free to send a PM if you would like to discuss or have any questions.

Thanks
David
720 841-6984
 

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  • Marti Report_1.jpg
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Last edited:
OP
OP
di81977

di81977

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2006
Messages
438
Wondering why so little interest? Lots of "looksies" but only a handful of calls.

Someone told me I shouldn't have mentioned the rust blisters in the posting. As a member of this site and with the possibility of someone from this site buying ther car, I want to be as honest about this cars condition as possible.

I was under the car the other day and have to say the floor pans, frame rails, torque boxes are all very solid.

Also, you could not buy a 393 with the specs this engine has for under $6,000. If you put the 302 that also comes with the car back in, you could easily part out or sell it for decent money, reducing the purchase price considerably.

Interested in thoughts on how I get this sold. At this point, it is not worth selling for much less than I am asking. If I took it back to near original, would that help? Interested in comments.

thanks
David
 

rvrtrash

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,649
David, I think you did the right thing by mentioning the rust. I don't think there is anything wrong with the way your car is set up, or the price you're asking. I think the market is just real soft right now and people are hanging on to their money. If I had the room for another car and some spare cash, I'd fly down and look at it.

Steve
 

hicountrybob

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 16, 2003
Messages
579
Location
Arvada, CO
Wondering why so little interest? Lots of "looksies" but only a handful of calls.

Someone told me I shouldn't have mentioned the rust blisters in the posting. As a member of this site and with the possibility of someone from this site buying ther car, I want to be as honest about this cars condition as possible.

I was under the car the other day and have to say the floor pans, frame rails, torque boxes are all very solid.

Also, you could not buy a 393 with the specs this engine has for under $6,000. If you put the 302 that also comes with the car back in, you could easily part out or sell it for decent money, reducing the purchase price considerably.

Interested in thoughts on how I get this sold. At this point, it is not worth selling for much less than I am asking. If I took it back to near original, would that help? Interested in comments.

thanks
David

Boy, I'm surprised and disappointed, David, that you're not gettng action on your HCS. Knowing this car, I think that you are very much in the ballgame, $wise, for what you would like to get for it. Keep us posted. If anything I can do to help, you have my #, so call me, huh? Bob here.
 

Mustanglvr

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2004
Messages
3,258
David, I think you did the right thing by mentioning the rust. I don't think there is anything wrong with the way your car is set up, or the price you're asking. I think the market is just real soft right now and people are hanging on to their money. If I had the room for another car and some spare cash, I'd fly down and look at it.

Steve

Ditto...
 
OP
OP
di81977

di81977

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2006
Messages
438
Thanks for the comments. I agree, the market is pretty bad right now. But, it is a good time to buy! I have a solid lead on a 2006 Shelby GT-H with a 1,000 miles. Just need to convince the wife, which won't be easy.

Took the HCS on an 80 mile ride this weekend. Ran like a champ. It was in the mid 80's and the temp gauge never went above the half way point.

David
 
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