Buying a GT/CS, need advice of experts, is it authentic, est value?

I would really appreciate some help from some expert GT/CS owners on identifying this car that I am prepared to buy. I have been assured by the owner that it has minimal rust, solid body, he has gotten the Marti report, and the vin is 8R01Cxxx. It's a 289-2V/C-4. I have the pics up on my site here:

http://www.jharbour.com/cs.html

Unfortunately it's 1700 miles away and I have to drive in order to trailer it back (in case it can't handle the trip), no chance for a test drive. I'm worried about trunk, but have to take owner's word that rust is minimal to none. He starts is "regularly", has never backfired. Hood blinkers work, fog lights are unplugged but present. The car spent its first 25 years of life in California before being moved to Huntsville, AL (where I hear weather is fair). Original paint, it's faded candyapple red (T-code).

I judged it in "fair" condition since (according to this web site) a GT/CS in "good" condition is one with some minor restoration already done (do you agree it is fair?). This one has been sitting for several years, out of the elements, one of the side vents is detached (sitting on the driver's seat), interior is worn but restoration would not be too difficult on this car overall. Assuming that the engine is running good and road worthy, even if it needs to be overhauled or not, what value would you place on this car?

I would greatly appreciate the advice of forum members here. I'm about to invest in this car for the long term and don't want to get stuck with a clone. The numbers match up, it's confirmed by Marti (though I haven't seen the report yet), VIN is good. It has everything listed in the "Identification" page on this site. Please help! Thank you!

Options:
parchment Vinyl Roof
California Special
C-4 trans
F70X14 wide oval tires
console
power steering
Air Conditioning-Selectaire
AM radio
Tinted glass
Deluxe wheel covers

I would also appreciate another tip, is there any other place besides the door and dash that gives the VIN? I keep hearing about the engine block stamping, but I have no idea where to look on the engine, and can it be seen without removing the engine? Also where on the fenders? I know there is a VIN stamp on the left top of the engine compartment, that's good enough right?

Thanks.

Jonathan,

Nothing is 100% certain with this hobby, but I would say a Marti report is about as close as you can get. If the report says it's a GT/CS and the VIN is correct for the car then I'd say it's legit.

Is the owner faxing you the report? Before you load up the trailer and start that 1700 mile trip I'd get a copy of the report, the title and a photo of the dash VIN and door data plate. If the owner is hesitant to provide any of the above I'd be leary of the deal.

The photos aren't great, but it seems all the GT/CS parts are there. I know it's pesemistic, but I'd expect the worst when it comes to rust. That way you'll be pleasantly surprised if there's not much, and only mildly disappointed if you find a lot.

The photos really don't show the more common trouble areas; rear quarters (low and behind and in front of rear wheels), floor boards, cowl, inner front fender wells (near hood hinges usually), etc. I don't know if that's because the owner is hiding something or just doesn't understand what pictures are needed to properly document a car.

Yes, the VIN is also on the top of the driver's inner front fender. You usually need to unbolt the fender and pull it back a little to check this location.

There was a post a while back with good info on engine VIN locations, including a few pictures:
http://californiaspecial.com/forums/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=396

Hope this helps a little. Good luck on the purchase!

Thanks a lot, Jon, that is a lot of good advice, and I'll ask the owner for the information you suggested. I'm actually worred now after reading your reply. but keeping my fingers crossed that it's all well and good.

-Jonathan

Sorry. It wasn't my intention to worry you. It just pays to be cautious when dealing with someone you've never met and a car you've never seen.

You could also pay a local mechanic (or maybe even a forum member if there's one in that area??) to take a quick look at the car. It might be $100 or so well spent. (just a guess at the price) Heck, if I lived close I'd probably do it for free. It's fun to go look at GT/CS's!

I see there is a Mustang club in Huntsville Al and their web site lists the names, email address' and phone numbers of quite a few members. If it were me, I'd start there. I'm sure one of them would help you out and they probably know what to look for on cars from that region. I also noticed on their web site an ad from a restoration shop and a parts house if you just wanted to pay someone to go take a look.

http://www.rocketcitymustang.com/

Both fender aprons actually have the VIN stamped. The only thing that could throw you off is if the apron is a replacement. And as Jon said, you have to unbolt the fenders to see it. Just unbolt the top bolts and loosen the door bolts enough to slide the fender away an inch or so. That's all you need... 15 minute job at most.

I think that the Marti report is as good as gold for verifying authenticity. If you find the VIN in enough places on the car (and those places haven't been tampered with, ESPECIALLY the dash tag), then the car is almost certainly authentic. After that, you worry about the rust, as Jon said. That's what the Mustang club members will be great for. They know Mustangs, and therefore know where to look for the rust monster. I strongly agree with bbeatty on that idea.

-Winston

I would be very careful about buying it. The carpet is covered up, maybe rusted out floor pans? Check the cowl vents for rust. Look underneath the dash. Also, the decals on the decklid and endcaps are not original. Maybe a fake? Just be careful.

[quote author=kevin link=board=1;threadid=526;start=0#msg2827 date=1059074478] Also, the decals on the decklid and endcaps are not original.
[/quote]

How so? The stripes look maybe just a tad high, but other than that look correct.

Thanks for the advice, I followed bbeaty's advice and contacted some members of that Mustang club and asked if anyone there would be willing to check out the car for me. I agree, there are things about it that worry me. If I can't find anyone willing to check it out, I'll have to ask the owner for more photos, of the driver floor without the covering, and of the inside trunk, and rear fenders.

But Kevin, what do you mean by "deck lid", I've never heard that term before. I don't see any decals other than the stripes (which look surprisingly CLEAN, matter of fact, considering the condition of the paint). Also what do you mean about the endcaps? What endcaps?

Thanks for the help.

-Jonathan

Ask the owner if he would be willing to shoot some video of it, at your cost of course. If so, give him a list of EVERYTHING you want to see, especially the areas that have been adddressed in the prev. posts.

I bought my last car this way, I live in Mich and the car was in Fla. It was much easier for me to get on that plane after viewing the video. I still found a couple of suprises, but nothing that killed the deal.

Good luck.

[quote author=Jonathan link=board=1;threadid=526;start=0#msg2829 date=1059091301]
But Kevin, what do you mean by "deck lid." I don't see any decals other than the stripes (which look surprisingly CLEAN, matter of fact, considering the condition of the paint). Also what do you mean about the endcaps? What endcaps?
[/quote]

Decklid = trunklid

End caps = rear quarter extensions (the finish the sides of the ducktail spoiler)

Jon, I think the stripes look fine as well. Kevin, what makes you think that they're not original (besides them being clean)?

-Winston

Jonathan,
I have been out of town for a week. I live in Birmingham, AL (about 2 hours away) and might could help you out if you cannot find someone in the Huntsville club to do it. Just let me know.
Richard