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Old 03/26/2019, 06:51 PM   #1
Mosesatm
 
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Road Warrior 2

I decided to get back in the game by purchasing a red GT/CS that Tim used to own. It then went to a kid in Seattle, then to Neil. I recently bought it from Neil.

At the moment all I'm doing it making sure it's road worthy so I can drive it to Rob's shop for an AOD swap, but even that small task is turning into an adventure.

The car would barely run well enough to get out of its own way. The choke was sort of open so I figured I'd start with the spark plugs. Five of the spark plug wires pulled loose of the metal connectors, and they weren't the type that can be recrimped; the boots are glued to the wires.

I thought that was surely the problem but then I checked the spark plugs. All the plugs on the driver side were gapped at 8, while all the plugs on the passenger side were properly gapped at 34. After gapping the plugs, installing new wires, and a cap and rotor, the engine runs like a dream. The test drive was scary because the car had no interest in stopping but fixing the brakes is a chore for another day.

Neil says this is all part of the fun but I'm not sure.

So everyone else can have as much fun as I, without getting their hands dirty I do have a couple questions I hope you can help me with.

The first photo shows the gear lube from the standard 8" differential. It's full of tiny air bubbles. At first I thought it was metal but nope, it's definitely air. The rear end grinds, howls, whines, whatever, when I let off the gas so I'm pretty sure it's in need of a rebuild, but since I'm going with an AOD I'll probably replace it with a 3.00. Is the gear oil supposed to look like it does in the photo, full of air bubbles? Can I drive it like it is for a few hundred miles or shall I replace the oil?

The second photo shows two heat riser tubes on the exhaust manifold. What's with that? One of them is capped so I have no idea where it is supposed to connect. Any thoughts?

The third photo is the original Road Warrior, and the last photo is the new version.

Thanks
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Old 03/26/2019, 09:36 PM   #2
CougarCJ
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That looks pretty thin for gear oil, it looks like you have some contamination?

I would lean more towards a 3.50 ratio for a carbureted V8 engine, but that is just me.

You had the Road Warrior 1, when you came by that time, right?

Scott Behncke
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Old 03/27/2019, 11:32 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CougarCJ View Post
That looks pretty thin for gear oil, it looks like you have some contamination?

I would lean more towards a 3.50 ratio for a carbureted V8 engine, but that is just me.

You had the Road Warrior 1, when you came by that time, right?
Could a plugged vent keep the air from escaping, creating the bubbles?
The car will be a highway cruiser so I’m shooting for low highway RPMs.
Yep, the aqua car was the original Road Warrior.

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Old 03/27/2019, 02:54 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosesatm View Post
Could a plugged vent keep the air from escaping, creating the bubbles?
The car will be a highway cruiser so Iím shooting for low highway RPMs.
Yep, the aqua car was the original Road Warrior.
Check with your Transmission supplier. Had a buddy running a Lentech Ford AOD and a 2.75 rear gear. He almost burned up the transmission, because not enough fluid was circulating? I think that was the reason.

What happened to your six shooter? We thought that was the RW2

Scott Behncke
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Old 03/29/2019, 08:36 AM   #5
robert campbell
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Arlie,
Whew, that car did not leave my garage like that. It also purred like a kitten and the choke worked great.

The one tube goes to the fitting on the top right side of the carb that kinda angles forward. It connects to the fitting with a short vacuum hose. This allows the choke to draw "filtered clean" air down to the exhaust manifold and then up the other tube to the choke stove. This provides hot air to release the choke as the car warms up.

I also think that 3.00 are to high. With 25 inch tires and a 3.50 ratio the car will do 70 at 2,500 rpm. 3.25 would be a good ratio. Make sure you know the height of your rear tires you plan to run. Use .75 as the ratio for the AOD in overdrive. Below is a cool calculator for you and others to use. Just plug in the numbers. I feel that 2,500 is a nice rpm for cruising and is in the fat part of the 289 torque curve.

Rob

https://spicerparts.com/calculators/...rpm-calculator
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Old 03/29/2019, 09:28 AM   #6
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My reasoning for the taller gears is that almost all modern cars turn between 1600 and 2000 at 70. I’m trying to get to that range to save wear and tear on the engine, increase mileage, and create a more comfortable highway driving experience. Off the line snap doesn’t interest me.
The car currently turns 2500(ish) at 70 with 26” tires and 2.79 gears. If you think that RPM range is best for the highway should I leave the car the way it is and just rebuild the 2.79? Doing so would certainly save a lot of money.

I'm going to remove the pumpkin this weekend to replace the old gear lube, and take a look at the wear patterns.

Last edited by Mosesatm; 03/29/2019 at 12:12 PM..

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Old 03/29/2019, 12:08 PM   #7
Mosesatm
 
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Originally Posted by robert campbell View Post
Arlie,
Whew, that car did not leave my garage like that. It also purred like a kitten and the choke worked great.

[snip]
Neither you or Neil would ever do that.

My WAG is that Crofton and/or one of his buddies tried to tune it up without knowing which end of the wrench to use.

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Old 03/27/2019, 05:29 AM   #8
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The tubes are for the heat stove that connects to the carburetor and choke assembly.

Follow HCS restoration at http://68hcs.weebly.com
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Old 04/02/2019, 06:02 PM   #9
CougarCJ
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Pretty sure that you need to change drive shafts for AOD's? shorter?

Scott Behncke
1968 GT/CS 302-4V Honors flysis income beezis onches nobis inob keesis
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Old 04/02/2019, 08:59 PM   #10
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Rob has everything. Turn key installation.

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Old 04/04/2019, 10:23 PM   #11
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I put the AOD behind my 351w and it runs about 2200 at 70. I have 3.73 gears. It launches good enough to smoke the tires and chirps going into 2nd which equals smiles per mile, LOL...

I also had to go with Ford powertrain headers as the AOD is wider.

just a little food for thought.


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Old 06/24/2019, 09:21 PM   #12
p51
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I'd vote for a black vinyl top as well. I've always liked that look. Also reminds me of the "Little Red" Shelby... have you thought of maybe adding a hood scoop as well?

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Old 06/24/2019, 08:54 PM   #13
franklinair
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I like the black vinyl top. I added it to my 1st GT/CS.
I understand the factory originals had a metal strip pop riveted into the gutter.

Neil
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Old 06/25/2019, 09:47 AM   #14
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Yes Neil, mine has the metal strip on the edge. My understanding is it's not reproduced and very hard to find.

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Old 06/25/2019, 01:19 PM   #15
CougarCJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Knapik View Post
Yes Neil, mine has the metal strip on the edge. My understanding is it's not reproduced and very hard to find.
Yes, and equally hard to install.

Scott Behncke
1968 GT/CS 302-4V Honors flysis income beezis onches nobis inob keesis
West Coast Classic Cougar A good source for Mustang mechanical parts too.
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