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For Sale 1968 GT/CS on SF CL

FX4

Active member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Messages
26
Thanks Rob, we are working on price right now. I think it is a go as long as I can get him down on price. I'm just not going to pay too much for it knowing I need to put about 15k into it give or take. Although I am seeing a lot of these grade 4 cars posted at around 20k which I have no idea why anybody would do it when grade 3 cars are readily available at 25k or less. Hagerty says 14750 for this car (rounding) which is a go if the seller will come down to that price range.
 

FX4

Active member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Messages
26
Well on to the next one. He is firm on price. I can't see being upside down in the car after restoration.
 

azbeneman

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2011
Messages
127
Location
Chandler, AZ
FX4,
Looks great to me!!! Proper amount of white overspray on the bottom of the floor pans. No noticeable rust through in these pics. All is looking good.

Rob

I agree with Rob. The underside looks good. I also agree with Don, in that rust can be an issue in CA cars. Mine was from San Jose and had a spot about the size of a nickel at the base of the rear window in the corner. It was completely under the trim so it wasn't visible until the car was disassembled. I was fortunate at I only had surface rust under the vinyl top. Don't forget to get photos of the battery tray area as well.

It appears to be a nice solid car. IMHO, the asking price is too high for a C code car in that condition. $16k is what I would guess the car will eventually sell for.

Have patients, cars come up for sale all the time. I looked for more than a year before I found mine.

Craig
 

FX4

Active member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Messages
26
Thanks Craig. Yeah I have already done a ton of research on what the car is worth. He won't come off of 20k. I told him if he changes his mind to contact me. I'm not in a huge hurry. I really want an S code car but barring some miracle I'm thinking they are a little out of reach at the moment for what I am willing to spend. The right car at the right price will come along.
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,741
You are correct on price versus value. Even though it may be in good condition $20K + restoring costs would put you out of the ballpark. Not to worry- there will be others.

I bought this one for $13K and put another $20K into it, doing most of the work myself.

Neil
 

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FX4

Active member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Messages
26
Nice restoration!

Actually the car is pretty worn out. The positives are that it is all original and the body is straight without any visible defects. The downside is it was truly a daily driver and shows it's 48 year age. I could probably get away without paint but the interior is a total gut and with 91k original miles on the motor plus a couple of minor oil leaks it and the transmission need gone through. He has fixed the ball joints but really the suspension needs rebuilt. 48 year old rubber bushings are nothing but a headache. Been there, done that, best to just rebuild it and make everything tight again.
 

JeffCruz

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2016
Messages
5
This thread caught my attention.
I also have a 1968 almost the same condition as their selling on that ad (haven't seen the interior of this one though). I wasn't going to sell it until next month. Main difference is that I'm down in L.A( Orange County to be exact).
 

FX4

Active member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Messages
26
Jeff how much are you asking and what are the details? I am not in a huge rush. I am just looking for a California/Nevada car that is rust free so Northern Ca / Southern CA doesn't really matter. I will have the car picked up and freighted to PA.

Ron
 
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JeffCruz

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2016
Messages
5
Well the car is really solid with no rust on the floorpans, rear quarters, etc. Only rust is on the front door corners and drip rails sadly. No structural rust at all though. Original Engine with correct vin stamped block and engine tag. Rear differential also has tag with correct date as well as the steering box tag. Door plate vin matches the windshield vin. Now as for the trans I'm not sure if original because I actually haven't checked it's stamping (I will be finding this out when I start listing car for sale). Main difference in cars is mine has no console but it does have factory power disc brakes and it's original black plates. I'm also not in a rush to sale so that's fine on both ends. I was going to List the car at 16k. Those are basically the main points.

Jeffrey
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
Well the car is really solid with no rust on the floorpans, rear quarters, etc. Only rust is on the front door corners and drip rails sadly. No structural rust at all though. Original Engine with correct vin stamped block and engine tag. Rear differential also has tag with correct date as well as the steering box tag. Door plate vin matches the windshield vin. Now as for the trans I'm not sure if original because I actually haven't checked it's stamping (I will be finding this out when I start listing car for sale). Main difference in cars is mine has no console but it does have factory power disc brakes and it's original black plates. I'm also not in a rush to sale so that's fine on both ends. I was going to List the car at 16k. Those are basically the main points.

Jeffrey

Jeffrey,
Sounds like a very nice car!! Lots of great options. Is it a 4 speed or auto? Are you familiar where the numbers are on the trannys.

Rob
 

JeffCruz

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2016
Messages
5
I have an idea of where the number is stamped. Also, it has the oh so ubiquitous C4 trans. Should be able to check for the stamping sometime this week.
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
Stamping is on the top of the main case. At the rear of the main case close to where the tail housing bolts on. Nearly impossible to see in the car. You would need a mirror. With yours being out it is easy to find.

Rob
 

FX4

Active member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Messages
26
Jeff, could you post pictures of the car in general and the rust spots? Living on the East coast I am cautious with any kind of rust. The humidity on this side of the country can really cause it to take off. That in turn means sand blasting the affected parts down to raw metal to stop it and repair it. This is a C code car?
 

JeffCruz

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2016
Messages
5
I can take some general pictures and send them to you by tomorrow or Wednesday. I won't be taking specific pictures of all areas of the car until this weekend. Also I won't know if the transmission is the correct one until I check this weekend and take a picture of the stamping. I'll pm you(Not sure how private messages work on this website since I just recently created the account) general pictures of the car and rust or I can email them to you. That way I don't post any pictures on this thread that we hijacked :tongue:

If your still interested after you check out the pictures with the rust spots I'll send you more detailed pictures of the whole car by this weekend hopefully.
 

FX4

Active member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Messages
26
No problem, like I said before I am not in a big hurry so at your convenience.
 
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