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Old 06/29/2019, 03:46 PM   #31
Mosesatm
 
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I decided to fix the ATF leaks in the car so yesterday I replaced the rear transmission seal, and today is the power steering, and I'm already stuck.
Is it easiest to remove the entire steering rack, including tie rods, or just remove the leaking parts?
Shown is the rack from one of my previous cars that shows the connection I cannot separate. Any thoughts? I don't want to use a pickle fork. Should I just remove the entire rack and use a vice?
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Old 06/29/2019, 08:05 PM   #32
franklinair
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Soak the joint with penetrating oil, let it sit for a while, and use a pickle fork.

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Old 06/30/2019, 06:22 PM   #33
robert campbell
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Arlie,
Use a pickle fork to put a small load on separating it. Just enough to not damage the rubber boot. I have a short piece of rail road track to lay one side of the tapered joint on. It is best with a helper to keep it on a solid piece of iron of some kind. Strike it with a large (3 pound) hammer on the other side and they pop right out. You do need to strike it hard!

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Old 07/03/2019, 12:48 PM   #34
Mosesatm
 
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Rob,
I think you're right about the need for a backing block. There is just too much flex in the steering system. The joint has been soaking for a few days so now it's time to go to the hardware store for a double jack head, unless I can find something heavier.

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Old 07/03/2019, 07:21 PM   #35
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I often use a gear puller that I have very tight, then hit with a sharp blow with a hammer. Seems to work well for me.

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Old 07/03/2019, 07:41 PM   #36
CougarCJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruppstang View Post
I often use a gear puller that I have very tight, then hit with a sharp blow with a hammer. Seems to work well for me.
I agree, otherwise you risk damaging the socket where the ball stud resides.

Scott Behncke
1968 GT/CS 302-4V Honors flysis income beezis onches nobis inob keesis
West Coast Classic Cougar A good source for Mustang mechanical parts too.
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