. Endine rebuild - now cooling system erupts

Hi All,

I've had the engine in our '66 HCS rebuilt, and got it back in the car.

Started it today for the first time. It ran for about 15 minutes, got good & warm, and the bottom radiator hose came off. Anti freeze everywhere - what a mess. I don't know if I didn't get the clamp tight, it was cocked or what.

I let cool for 3 hours, replaced all the clamps with the worm gear type, and refilled with plain water. I left the radiator cap just sitting on the opening, not twisted or fastened. After another 15 minutes of running, the water pushed the radiator cap off, and erupted out the opening.

Both time I checked the temp gauge and it was right in the middle between H & C.

I have pulled the upper radiator hose off and the thermostat is installed with the brass "button" portion towards the radiator. And reasonably sure that is the side that says "to rad", although I can't see the printing unless I pull the
t-stat housing.

I am needing your help in figuring out what the heck is going on here. This is very discouraging to spend the time & money and have the thing do this.

Thanks, Dave

The thermostat spring should be towards the engine.

OK, I get the dumb a$$ of the year award.

I pulled the T-stat, and where it says 'to rad" is a tiny, lightly stamped arrow, which I did not see previously, indicating which direction the t-stat should be installed. Naturally, I had installed it the wrong way.

Hopefully I haven't hurt the engine.

Thanks, Dave

You'll need to try a lot harder than that to win the dumb-ass award!!

Mosesatm said:

You'll need to try a lot harder than that to win the dumb-ass award!!

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No kidding. That doesn't even get you an honorable mention in the dumb-ass competition!

DeadStang said:

No kidding. That doesn't even get you an honorable mention in the dumb-ass competition!

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...mmm... Like scratching your head with the rotor in your hand and the starter smoking while wondering why the car won't start...

Midnight Special said:

...mmm... Like scratching your head with the rotor in your hand and the starter smoking while wondering why the car won't start...

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It wasn't in my hand, it was on the fender!!!!!!! GEEEZZZZZEEEE, Some folks just won't let things go. LOL

somethingspecial said:

It wasn't in my hand, it was on the fender!!!!!!! GEEEZZZZZEEEE, Some folks just won't let things go. LOL

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...What... You did that too, Mike?? I didn't give names! ;-)

Midnight Special said:

...What... You did that too, Mike?? I didn't give names! ;-)

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Ahhhhhh, NO!

66hcs-conv said:

OK, I get the dumb a$$ of the year award.

I pulled the T-stat, and where it says 'to rad" is a tiny, lightly stamped arrow, which I did not see previously, indicating which direction the t-stat should be installed. Naturally, I had installed it the wrong way.

Hopefully I haven't hurt the engine.

Thanks, Dave

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Hate to ask the "did you run it at 2,000 rpm for 20 minutes on initial start up" question..... To break in the cam.....

Rob

Yep, I got 17-20 minutes before "old faithful" erupted - twice. The guy that built the engine said that 10 minutes & varying the RPM would also work. He is a former NHRA super comp guy & has built 100's of engines.

I am going to replace all the hoses. They are 16 years old & probably put under a strain from this.

Thanks for all the replies. After having a partial tear in my rotor cuff tendons from working on the car, and getting shingles in the same shoulder and down my arm, my patience is/was wearing a little thin with the &*^%$^# car.

Thanks again, Dave

New engines can run hot during break in. Not uncommon. Put the cap on, run it and keep an eye on the temp, but it should be fine...

engine rebulit

This has nothing to do with the GT/CS but I was wondering if some one could check out a 67 fastback from Springfield NJ it is a barn find would like to buy but I liver in Wisconsin I would give you something for your time the number for Ebay is 271576062140 thanks let me know if you can help