For Sale 1968 GT/CS on SF CL

I am investigating this car. Is there an expert on here that can discuss the particulars about this car with me via PM? I have an idea of what I believe it is worth but I want to make certain. I am potentially flying to the West Coast next week and taking a look at it. My trip is for something else, looking at this car would be a side trip.

The ad doesn't list enough info for even a WAG, other than basic option info.
How knowledgeable are you pertaining to Mustangs in general?
Do you know the key places subject to rust issues?

More questions than answers.

Neil

The seller has text messaged me all the details about the car with more coming tomorrow. Basically it's a daily driver, body is good, interior is rough. Motor and transmission are original. The thing that is appealing is the car is all original and it is all there but it would be a restoration project. The car hasn't been beat up at all but the car is fairly worn out from normal use.

franklinair said:

The ad doesn't list enough info for even a WAG, other than basic option info.
How knowledgeable are you pertaining to Mustangs in general?
Do you know the key places subject to rust issues?

More questions than answers.

Neil

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Just shy of expert. I have been a Mustang fan my entire life. I used to build hotrods when I was younger. The one thing I have not kept up on is valuations.

And yes I do know about the rust locations and have already asked. Since this is a Bay Area car I'm not too concerned. It was originally sold in Southern California and at some point made its way North. Seller assures me the only rust on the car is surface rust on the underside. I have asked for pictures of the underside. I already have a bunch of pictures from the seller of the rest of the car. I specifically asked about the rear wheel wells and lower rear quarter panels. He assures me no rust.

FX4 said:

The seller has text messaged me all the details about the car with more coming tomorrow. Basically it's a daily driver, body is good, interior is rough. Motor and transmission are original. The thing that is appealing is the car is all original and it is all there but it would be a restoration project. The car hasn't been beat up at all but the car is fairly worn out from normal use.

Click to expand...

FX4,
Neil is about as good as it gets as an expert on these cars. As he does not have the info you have he is right on in giving you advice he did.

It sounds like you have been to this rodeo before but here are a few things to look for:

1. The abbreviated VIN on the back of the block. It would be a quick check to confirm it is the original motor and not just the word of the seller.

2. The same for the automatic. You will need a mirror and the car in the air a bit. Some solvent and rags. The VIN number is on the top of the automatic near the joint between the tail housing and main case.

3. VIN numbers on the right side battery apron only visible from the underside with the right front tire off. A stiff wire brush and some cleaner to expose them. Or move the fender out enough from the top side to expose them. Few sellers will let you do that.

4. Become familiar with the date codes on the sheet metal to see if the bulk of the panels on the car are original. The fenders, quarters, hood, and trunk lid have exposed date codes if the car has not been painted several times. The steering box has a tag that should coincide with the build date.

5. Hopefully the door tag is a match to the car and original. They are easily obtained and can be altered.

You asked for some expert advice on your car and we are here to help. Provide us some details that the seller gave you and we will help you if you want our help. With what we have in front of us is more questions than answers as Neil said.

No one on this site will try to steal the car out from under you. From the ad if it is a Marti verified and VIN confirmed car it is in the range (a bit high for a car needing a total restoration) of its worth if all the parts are confirmed and there. Keep in mind that a just a quality paint job these days will ruin 6 to 8 grand if you do a lot of the part removal and prep yourself. Or if you can apply a quality job yourself, then go for it so to speak.

I have been in the Mustang hobby since 1972. I have seen so many buyers getting a bogus car or not all original many times. And before they know it they are under water in its worth. I did a thorough inspection of a car Neil bought from the West Coast. I ensured that the car was what it was for him. And his restorations are second to none.

Again, we are here to help if you wish to share more details.

Rob

Thank you Rob. Those are things I had not considered to verify the authenticity of the seller's claims.

Value is definitely a big concern. He did provide me with a Marti report. Prior to purchase I would run a new one to verify. Looking at Hagerty valuations this car looks to be worth about 15k in my estimation. I am figuring I will need to put about that into it again to get it to a solid "good" car. I'm not looking for a show car but I do want it nice enough to take to cruise nights and turn a few heads.

I grew up in a family run auto body shop out here in South San Francisco and even tho' our cars usually don't show the rust associated with road salt we still can have rusted out cars. Some of the worst rust I have seen are from cars that come from our coastal regions. Since we have lots of fog the air has lots of moisture and that moisture gets into every body cavity and does not escape. Our cars rust from the inside out so you really have to be diligent in your search for rust. One small rust pimple could be an indication that an entire panel has cancer on the inside. Pay particular attention to door bottoms and look for the tell tale rust bumps under the vinyl top.

Thank you Don. I grew up in the Bay Area. I am familiar with the minor rust problems that show up on California cars. It's why I asked about the quarter panels and wheel wells. If my memory serves me correctly dirt collects down there and holds moisture. It's been a good 25 years since I have messed with a 60s era mustang so I imagine a few more common rust points have shown up that I do not know about. I'm real good at spotting body work, even good body work so I don't think the seller will be able to hide anything if there is anything to see. My gut tells me from what I know so far this is just a well used, tired car that has lived a boring life. We will see.

Actually my Dad worked for Ford in 68 on the Mustang line so in all likelihood he had a hand in building this car. Kind of why I am interested in these California Specials. Something that is a little special, a little different, won't bust my wallet, and my Dad had a hand in building it.

Good to hear that you know what to look for. I have read way too many posts about problems that were discovered after purchase. The good news is even if there are some undiscovered issues there are lots of parts available for these. You got it right anyplace dirt collects it hold the moisture and promotes rust. Some other things to consider is that the old glues that were used on these cars (especially if used around windshield and rear window gaskets) often were hydroscopic so moisture would collect there and promote rust. Rust will often be more evident on one side of the car vs the other (depend on if the car was parked one side higher than the other). The reason I mention the doors is that often leaves and such block the drain holes and they end up trapping water in the bottom. From the pic, I agree, it could be a fairly unmolested original.

Ah thank you. I forgot about windshield seals. Why I ask these questions. I'm sure even with my best effort I will miss things inspecting the car. I just kind of take that as a given. I know about door jams. A common area for rust on new and old cars. The underside of doors too, particularly at the seam welds.

Floors, floors, floors. If at all possible lift the carpets. The moisture is held in by carpeting, sound deadening material, and the glue to hold these in place.

FX4,
You seem right on the money, and getting a car that the owner has not tried to hide anything by a new paint job. One of Neil's favorite sayings is "blow and go" for paint jobs. To many cars have had this done and are hiding their hidden treasures..... rust....

Make sure you take a good look at the floor pans, but you know that already. Bad front and rear gaskets on the windshield and rear glass are the bane of those great cars. Also, do the water test for the cowls. Ensure the car is level both ways and slowly pour about a quart of water on each side of the cowl inlets. Hopefully you will get your foot wet as it pours out behind the front tire. If not, then really take a look at the bottom of the firewall and floor pan on the inside.

You seem extremely knowledgeable and how cool to own a car that your
Father may have had a hand in building. Sounds like a great car!!

I hesitate to ask, but is your Father still alive? We love to here stories from Ford workers of this era!!

Rob

Hope the car gets a clean bill of health. Be sure to post your findings & opinion.
And by the way- Welcome! Lots of good folks here, coupled with info & help.
Where do you call home? Their aren't many CS's in my part of the world.

Neil

franklinair said:

Hope the car gets a clean bill of health. Be sure to post your findings & opinion.
And by the way- Welcome! Lots of good folks here, coupled with info & help.
Where do you call home? Their aren't many CS's in my part of the world.

Neil

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San Jose, Ca is home, but I live in Pittsburgh Pa and have on and off for about twenty years. Thank you for the welcome. I'm looking forward to becoming a member the GT/CS owners club.

robert campbell said:

FX4,
You seem right on the money, and getting a car that the owner has not tried to hide anything by a new paint job. One of Neil's favorite sayings is "blow and go" for paint jobs. To many cars have had this done and are hiding their hidden treasures..... rust....

Make sure you take a good look at the floor pans, but you know that already. Bad front and rear gaskets on the windshield and rear glass are the bane of those great cars. Also, do the water test for the cowls. Ensure the car is level both ways and slowly pour about a quart of water on each side of the cowl inlets. Hopefully you will get your foot wet as it pours out behind the front tire. If not, then really take a look at the bottom of the firewall and floor pan on the inside.

You seem extremely knowledgeable and how cool to own a car that your
Father may have had a hand in building. Sounds like a great car!!

I hesitate to ask, but is your Father still alive? We love to here stories from Ford workers of this era!!

Rob

Click to expand...

Thank you for the advice. Unfortunately my Dad passed away about ten years ago very unexpectedly.

The right side marginally concerns me. It looks like there could potentially be a few pinhole rust spots. Thoughts from guys used to looking at these things?

Marti report

Tough to say without seeing it in person. There appears to be a puncture from high centering on something sharp or a jack or ???. The runners and drips seem a bit weird so if you inspect it make sure you arrange to have it put on a lift so you can do a thorough undercarriage inspection in good light ( I do this with all my potential buys and it saved my butt more than once).

FX4,
Looks great to me!!! Proper amount of white overspray on the bottom of the floor pans. No noticeable rust through in these pics. All is looking good.

Rob