Some help on Exhaust/Windows/Wheels/Brakes

???
Hey everyone. Had a few questions I was hoping someone might be able to assist with.

I'm starting to do some work on my new GT/CS and can't find info on a few things. I searched the forums but can't find the specific answers I'm looking for.

My initial work on it is going to be Brakes all around including Master Cylinder and Springs.

Here are the questions I have. I will post pics after this post with examples of what I am referencing.

1. Exhaust - my car is not a GT, should it have a single or dual exhaust? Currently is it dual. The question I have is that the exhaust pipes stop about halfway under the trunk - is that correct or should it extend more toward the bumper? (Pictures below)

2. The rear quarter windows don't roll up or down. I still need to take off the trim to see why but I was looking through some catalogs and there never seems to be a regulator for the 68 rear windows. Am I missing something? I saw some posts about plastic rollers that go bad.

3. What is the correct paint color for the wheels? The wheels were painted while still on the car and I wanted to freshen them up while I have them off to do the brakes and suspension work. (Pics are below of my wheels)

4. Brakes - I was looking at the Raybestos site and also the Rockauto site for rear wheel cylinders and it kind of confusing. I see one cylinder for the Rear Right Wheel for 4bbl cars, another for the left rear (same number).
Then the same number again is listed for ALL Mustangs (68) and also for 289 2bbl. And then another number for the right rear for 2bbl.
I think I need 17507 for both sides. But I wasn't 100% sure. Not sure if anyone is familiar with this one but figured I'd give it a shot.

Thanks in advance!

Rich

exhaust pic 1

exhaust 2

Wheels

Non GT car originally should have a single exhaust, my car (Beautiful Blue just like yours) had single exhaust and I changed it to dual exhaust. Unless you are going for concours judging class in shows I'd leave it dual. As for where it should end, it should go all the way out the back and you should have a dual exhaust valance on the back and quad tips. Look at a lot of pictures and look closely and you will see some in the photo gallery. Also being a non GT car you shouldn't have the GT caps on the wheels, again I would leave them as they look nicer.

Speaking of the wheels they should be Argent in color and I don't have the paint number handy but someone should have it.

As for the rear quarter windows, I'd start by taking out the back seat, take off the handles, take off the metal side panels and get a look see, as for regulators, I found one on ebay that was rebuilt and they had done a nice job, you could take yours out and freshen them up and give them some grease and more than likely you'd be fine but you'd have to look to see for sure, you will probably need some plastic clips to replace the old ones as they are usually broke or missing or brittle and ready to break. Also the plastic handles for rolling up and down the windows that go on the steel handle break off easy once the windows get stiff, it was suggested that going to the 1967 Mustang handles (all steel) will help a lot and I made that change, they just showed up so I haven't put them on yet but I will. The important part here is getting the windows tore down and lubed up good and working good, just changing the handles will not solve the problem.

I just redid my brakes and at the part store they need to know the size of the drums etc in order to get the right parts for me, I'd call up to your local parts place and find out exactly what info they need, then when you are ready to change them tear them down get the measurements and go get what you need.

Well that should be a start.

Hook

Thanks Hook!

I thought it should be single exhaust too - planning on keeping it dual - thought it needed to extended. Have to look into the best way to do that.
For the valance are you referring to the GT valance? That might be the way to go ... the current valance is a bit bent on one side anyhow.

I agree with keeping the GT wheel covers. The previous owner found them in the trunk and put them on.

I thought the wheel color was Argent but wanted to confirm that.

I'll have to take apart the rear interior and check out the windows. Is there a reason 68 regulators aren't available? All the parts catalogs seems to skip 68 totally.
3 of my 4 window cranks have been changed to the 67 style. I remember the 68 cranks on my Dad's 68 LTD Country Squire Wagon breaking too.

I did try one local store on the brakes and they weren't sure either. A trip down with the mearsurements should help.

Thanks again!
Rich

Rich

The blue GT/CS's have to stick together. Here is my advise.

We decided the same thing when it came to adding the dual exhaust, rear GT valence, GT hubcaps, etc. We liked the look and installed them on our car. For brakes, we installed front power disk and new rear drum.

You can see our car on page 3 of the gallery (Paul & Brian Stevenson).

As for the rear quarter regulators, our car did not have any so we had to remove and install from a donor car. Ours did not work because the levers that move the window up and down were bent. After I removed them, painted them, then straightened out the levers, installed new plastic rollers, lubed and reinstalled. They work great now.

California Mustangs have rear window regulators. We did not order anything from them but you can see their website at www.cal-mustang.com. They are $78.00 a piece I think.

If you need any other help, just ask. If you look back in forum history, you will see that we asked 1000 questions between myself and my brother (pbgtcs). Everyone on this site is extremely knowlegable and willing to help.

Paul

By the way, both you and hook need to get your cars on the gallery. I feel lonely as just about the only Blue car!!!

Paul

Not sure why or if the 68 1/4 regulators are available as I really didn't check new as I found the one on ebay right off the bat so I went that route. I do know you can buy the door regulators. I'm sure the 67 1/4 regulators should be the same as well. You might put in a search on ebay and start watching there, I was really impressed with the rebuilt one that I purchased.

Hook

wheels should be Argent color. Most vendors have the color under that name, they know what it is.

NPD sells the NOS rear window handles with the knobs for $14.95 each. I bought 4 of these and use them in the front as well. I cannot tell the difference between the rear and fronts except for a round bezel thing that sticks to the handle base.

[quote author=PFSlim link=board=1;threadid=1779;start=0#msg11426 date=1118264885]
By the way, both you and hook need to get your cars on the gallery. I feel lonely as just about the only Blue car!!!

Paul
[/quote]

Mines there, has been for a lot of years. I don't have a lot of pictures in the gallery but there is one there.

Hook

On your exhaust, they should go to the rear of your car. If you leave them exit the way they are:
1. The exhaust will be louder inside your car.
2. The exhaust gases may find their way into the car, especially sitting in a traffic jam. :-[

Your easiest option is to have them lengthened and turned down just inside your rear valance or out at the bottom.
The best option as Paul stated is to use a GT rear valance with the exhaust cut-outs. I just bought one of these for my car. .....Not there yet.

On your brakes, not only measure your drum inside diameter but also the brake face width. I found Oreilly Auto Parts guys had the info in books for this. They also had the best price locally. $47 for two wheel cylinders, a set of brake pads and a spring kit.
This was how I found the correct pads and wheel cylinders for my 9". For the 10" drum they made two different width pads, 1 3/4 and 2".

Rich;
The paint I used on my styled steele wheels on my 68 GT Coupe shows the following on the can:

Argent Spray Paint
Distributed by Ford Motor Company
#F6AZ-19K207-AA
Ford Internal Reference No. 014479

I bead blasted my old rims, repainted them with the Argent Paint and also clear coated them which makes them a little easier to clean.

I picked it up at a local Restoration Shop in my local area. Hope this helps.

Don 8)

Rich,
I too got my 1/4 regulators off ebay, a 68 cougar regulator is exactly the same (which is what I got). I think I paid $10 for both sides.

Doug

Thanks for the info everyone!

My parts are all ordered and everything should be delivered by Tuesday.

Have to keep my eye out for the regulators - first I'll see if that's even the problem

Is the trunk weatherstripping on the GT/CS the same as a regular 68 Mustang?

Rich

Rich;
You got it, trunk weatherstrip is the same as a regular coupe.

Don

Rich

When you install the new trunk weatherstrip, there is a correct and an incorrect way of installing. We bought a brand new decklid and had to ask this forum how to install the weatherstrip. Someone might need to post pics for you if yours is in bad shape.

Hold the new strip in place and use two people if you can when installing. The weatherstrip wants to move some - at least it did on ours which had fresh paint on the decklid.

Also, it was our experience that we got an great fit on our decklid (minus the weatherstrip). After we installed the weatherstrip, it changed the fit. The decklid rode very high and required readjustment of the decklid. We are still adjusting after 6 months to pull down. Still not there.

Paul

As stated by Paul be careful how you install the trunk weather seal. Mine was put on backwards on my CS and I had to change it. Be sure the open seam is installed towards the inside of the trunk lid. I simply removed the trunk lid and laid it on two furniture pads and installed the seal (gave it 1 day for the glue to dry) and reinstalled. No more leaks.

Paul; I've also seen several other cars that had problems with the trunk lid sitting higher after installing the new seal. A friend of mine removed his new seal and reinstalled another new one only put it on backwards and used vacume hose in between the open seal area to get it to seal properly. It worked but, it's not the proper way to install it. He experimented with several sizes of vacume hose before he found the right size.

Don ;D

I installed new weatherstip on mine and it was too thick. had to take it off and it is still off. was a pain but I got the lid to close with the top of the "lip" flush with the end caps.

Wow and I thought the weather strip on the trunk would be an easy fix! ??? ;D

Thanks for all the tips!

Rich