Recent content by Tim_morrison82

Hood lock latches for californian special original. One wire is snapped but can be repaired. $300 the set. Hood twist lock mechanisms original. Lots A and B Lot A - 1 good set with springs, no pitting, no washer, with a second poorer set with original washers and a spare spring - $550 Lot B -...

Mate... Miss you already. RIP

He was also known as OZ390 and Mert on other forums.

Guys, I have just heard the worst news... He was a great resource for my 68, and we swapped a lot of parts over the years... its a sad day today. ------ I would just like to notify the members of this forum site that Richard (dalorzo_f) Smykay passed away on Saturday 11th March after a short...

have you got bob mannels small block book? there are comparisons there.

if your car is a j code, the gt350 originally was issued with a stock j code engine, so engine parts are transferable. if you are looking at getting rid of j code concourse parts, I may be interested if I havent already got what you have...

I asked scott to pm you on mustangtech. he has some there. he just wants postage for them if they will work for you. cheers

no wonder it was hiding under the car... scott in wa has some power steering parts from a mustang resto place that closed down over here. he said if I even needed anything to let him know. I dont know exactly what hes got, but surely at least 1 ps ram would be in there.

ahh crap! I may know of something. wait till I get home and ill see if I can get it for you.

my mid dec coupe (non CSGT) had deluxe belts, lap only, and didnt even have the retainer nut that was typically welded to the frame... I will havr to check for the seatbelt warning light.

if you mean the metal dash, its all fully welded in. you will need to remove the glass, and all tge rest of the stuff under it and then blast it inside the car. alternatively you could drill out the spotwelds, and weld it back in when finished... it wasnt until 69 that the dash unscrewed from...

cheers Kerry!

the stamp near #1 cyl is the engine buid completion date. its usually a date code folled by a shift number, ot similar after. mine is 7L13 A if I recall correctly. if you dont have the flat section as shown previously, you may have an actual 289 block. in 68 they used them all up and any extra...

i am not 100% sure which interior paint is correct... but i am interested in finding out too.

i still think that '8' looks like an 'S' Richard... definately on the block at least