1968 Front Suspension parts

[Tequila]

Hi,
I am looking to buy new lower & upper control arms as well new springs for my 68 coupe with 302 engine. I am trying to figure out who makes the best components - as close to original fitment as possible.

In reading through the restoration reference section I came across Fly-Ford suspension parts but in looking at their website I can't figure if they make their own components or if they buy say Scott Drake and rebadge them? If they have their own components, where can I buy them? Their website doesn't provide an opportunity to buy online.

I was going to buy the Scott Drake but decided not to based on issues others have had.

If you have any recommendations please let me know.

Thanks,
RT

 

[Mosesatm]

I've had good luck with Moog parts.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...708&itemPerPage=60&storeId=10001&YEAR=1543570

 

[franklinair]

Moog: Reasonable prices, OK fitment.

Neil

 

[Tequila]

Thanks Mosesatm.

Neil, your setup looks awesome!!! Is that a Moog components? I don't mind paying a little extra to get good quality fit.

Also, I am sure this question has been asked before (sorry), but did you paint the red & white markings on the springs or did it come with the correct markings?

 

[franklinair]

I painted the UCA natural, painted the coil springs a better black than the mfr., added the stripes (attempting to duplicate originals).
New spring saddles (some prefer the roller bearing type, but the co$t is too much, and for normal driving- a waste of money. IMHO)
The LCA is natural @ the outer end also. I also use KYB shocks, repainted to correct color.

Neil

 

[dalorzo_f]

I also use KYB shocks, repainted to correct color.

What color would that be, fronts and rears the same?

 

[franklinair]

Shock absorbers for '68 = Black. As per MCA judging rules.

Neil

 

[dalorzo_f]

Semi-related question. Would black be correct for a '68 Shelby (early 68 build date) too....??? Or did they get orange/red Koni's?

 

[J_Speegle]

Semi-related question. Would black be correct for a '68 Shelby (early 68 build date) too....???

No - unless its a 4 speed KR then the rear s are semi-gloss black

Other than that application they were painted blue and were adjustable (three settings) Gariel's. The bodies of those are shaped differently than the standard Autolites and have some different physical features along with the imprints on the sides

Or did they get orange/red Koni's?

Shelby's stopped using Shelby's from the factory half way through 1966 production

 

[Ruppstang]

No - unless its a 4 speed KR then the rear s are semi-gloss black

Other than that application they were painted blue and were adjustable (three settings) Gariel's. The bodies of those are shaped differently than the standard Autolites and have some different physical features along with the imprints on the sides






Shelby's stopped using Shelby's from the factory half way through 1966 production

+1 on what Jeff said but I think he meant to say Koni's were no longer used in the factory after the middle of 1966.

As far as suspension parts I prefer the restore the originals the fit perfectly.
Marty

 

[dalorzo_f]

Thanks for the info.

Marty, is the rubber grommet for the two PS hoses on the 289 you show the same as for the 390, just in a different place? Mine is missing and I need to source a new metal clip (just the U shaped one that holds the rubber, I have the lower) and rubber. May have a spare 390, need to look, and your picture reminded me I need to find one...

 

[Ruppstang]

Yes same rubber and retainer. Different base.

 

[Tequila]

+1 on what Jeff said but I think he meant to say Koni's were no longer used in the factory after the middle of 1966.

As far as suspension parts I prefer the restore the originals the fit perfectly.
Marty

Hi Marty,
Are there anyone out there that restores the upper & lower control arms? Mine looks okay from what I can tell but covered with dirt and some minor rust on the springs.

Can those grease fittings & ball joints be replaced? Are there any other components on the UCA & LCA that needs to be replaced as well? Is sandblasting a good idea or manual sanding?

Thanks!!!

 

[dalorzo_f]

Upper ball joints can be replaced, both 3 and 4 bolts are available. The trick is finding someone to re-rivet if you want to maintain that look. Some suggest bolts are stronger and more reliable (but maybe they say that as its just easier!) The grease fitting is on the ball joint.

Rebuilding the arm is really pretty straightforward. Centering the arm, and finding the correct O ring type (not the "capped" style) is probably the biggest issue I saw. Mostly a matter of blasting and treating/painting to look "natural" . Hard to duplicate the OEM finish once blasted. Or you can soak and scrub (sanding will scuff and change color too) to not change the look with blasting. Parts washer and a plastic scraper and non-scratch scotch-brite are good tools to not damage the surface). I've used Cast Blast paint (too dark for my liking) and VHT cast iron (a bit lighter) but they still look painted. OEM is bare, so for "correct" you accept rust at some future date.

Phosphating (easy DIY method is media blast and then soak in rust converter for about 2 hours or until color is what you like...) can give a decent grey. But it will rust again unless you really keep up with re-oiling (in my experience in the humidity/heat of Brisbane)

The Perch is repairable, but pressing in new bushings takes the right tools (I don't have a press to do this and have outsourced or just used repros, they are "close" and not obvious to the eye when installed)

LCA's are a different story, I have looked for years for a correct lower ball joint and no one seems to sell them for some reason. Sold as a complete part.

Ball joints can be cleaned and used as is if in good serviceable condition, They can last a long time. Check them before just assuming they need to go...

 

[CougarCJ]

Marcus Anghel does them and other suspension / brake parts too.

anghelrestorations.com

 

[dalorzo_f]

Beautiful work, but the prices look like they match.... $400 for tie rods. No price on control arms... for the concours car, not a daily driver...

 

[Ruppstang]

These parts can be done your self for much less. Most 6cil cars will have good lower control arms. For a driver I would bolt in the ball joint and paint with cast blast.
Marty

 

[Tequila]

Thanks guys!!! Great info. I spoke to Anghel restorations this morning and they specialize in mostly concourse restorations. I am trying to be somewhere in between a driver and a garage queen. So, I think I will have to follow dalorzo_f suggestions & steps on trying to restore them.

I was also planning to do the drive-line restoration that Marty had posted in the reference section (awesome stuff) and perhaps with a lot of elbow time I might be able to get reasonably close what he did with his drive-line. Perhaps the same steps might work out for the control arms and springs(?).