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Old 09/07/2009, 07:09 AM   #1
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Rebuild Front End

I just started rebuilding my GT/CS that's been sitting for several years and am thinking about trying to redoing the front end while I'm on vacation next week. What kit would you guys recommend for the front end or would you just buy replacement stock parts? What pieces would you replace? It has manual steering and Granada front disc brakes. I remember it drove good except it pulled to the left or right pretty bad when stopping, and it rattled when the brakes weren't on and I think the spring clips were on the calipers. The steering had a lot of play in it, would you rebuild the steering box or replace it?

My dad wants to put a Mustang II front end on it but I'm worried it will lose that good feel it had going down the highway. And I want to get it done quick. I can't find the original engine so I'm not worried about keeping it totally stock.

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Old 09/07/2009, 07:27 AM   #2
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Pulling to one side when you hit the brakes is an indicator that one side isn't working correctly. I would start with tracking that down. You can pull the calipers and look at the pads and see if one side shows less wear. That's probably the problem side. As for the steering, you can tighten the play in the steering box, but I'd let someone do it that's familiar with the procedure. You can create problems by overtightening also. You can also install a rack and pinion setup without welding in the Mustang II front end and that would make a big difference. As for what parts to replace, if a car has been sitting for a long time and has a lot of miles on it, I just replace everything to be safe. Other than that, check each part for play and replace whatever is loose. LUBE EVERYTHING! If a seal, boot or rubber bushing looks weathered or cracked, replace it.


The wannabe formerly known as an owner.
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Old 09/07/2009, 07:35 AM   #3
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The brake pulling was random, it would go to the right and then two minutes later on the next stop it would pull to the left. It was like it was catching something, I don't think one brake was working better than the other.
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Old 09/07/2009, 10:03 AM   #4
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Overhaul or replace the calipers.
Replace the pads.
Replace the hoses to each caliper.
Have the rotors machined to be smooth & true.
Does the Granada brake set-up include a proportioning valve?

Replace upper & lower control arms (ball joints included)
Replace coil springs, saddles, and insulators
Replace both tie rod ends
Replace strut rod bushings
I hope you have a GOOD coil spring compressor to R & R the springs safely.
While everything is apart, it's an ideal time to clean/paint the components & areas to make everthing look crisp. Don't forget to get the car to an alignment shop after all work completed. They can adjust the steering box play @ that time.
You're probably looking at several hundred dollars for all these parts. I prefer MOOG components (NAPA), but you can check the various suppliers- R&R (clubpro) would be my choice.


Last edited by franklinair; 12/30/2009 at 10:42 AM..
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Old 09/07/2009, 10:47 AM   #5
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Spaceman Spiff

Location: Beautiful Willamette Valley
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Check and inspect the rear brakes too.

Donna had a pulling problem on her car and it was a leaking rear wheel cylinder. Rear shoes on that side were saturated.

Get good quality parts, the ones currently being offered by Drake are very nice, and are much better than the cheaply made ones available for a lower price.

Since you have Granada spindles, order outer tie rod ends for a 1970 Mustang. They have a the proper size stud.
Order the extended zerk fitting kit for the upper control arms too.

Scott Behncke
1968 GT/CS 302-4V Honors flysis incone beezis onchest nobis inob keesis
West Coast Classic Cougar A good source for Mustang mechanical parts too.
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Old 09/07/2009, 01:35 PM   #6
robert campbell
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Location: Bremerton Washington
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Randall's Racks is local in my area for rack and pinion conversions. Ford Powertrain Applications (Stan Johnson) has teamed with him for headers that clear his installations. If you want to go for a bolt in coversion this is good stuff. I do not like the Mustang II conversion. It removes the shock towers and the support brace to the fire wall. The early Mustang uses the shock tower and brace to the firewall combination in conjuction with its "unibody" concept. Certainly tieing the sub frames together is a must with a Mustang II installation. Fat Man fabrications has a nice rack and pinion conversion that also retains the shock towers. And will let you cut them smaller to gain clearance.

Here are some links.

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