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Old 06/05/2009, 10:06 AM   #1
robert campbell
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Superbright LED Lights

All,
Just installed a set of Superbright LED’s in the taillights. Before installation my volt gauge would fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts with the turn signal on in either direction at idle. With the new LED lights, which are much brighter, the volt gauge has just a small barely perceptible move. Maybe 1/10 of a volt at idle with the turn signals on.

Not sure if anyone else has a volt gauge, but many have complained about their dash lights dimming in sequence to the turn signal. The stock amp gauge is not sensitive enough to move. Steve (rvrtrash “river trash” not RV trash) and Neil (franklinair) have been looking at this anomaly. One thing for sure is a GT/CS has a higher rate of turn signal switch causalities. The thought is the turn signal switch is not designed to support 6 1157 bulbs.

All and all, based on my extremely un-scientific observation, is the LED bulbs draw less current than the stock 1157 bulb and will but less load on the turn signal switch. Neil has stated this.

Hopefully the result is longer turn signal switch life, brighter (safer) rear lights, and the end to annoying dimming and pulsating of the dash lights at idle at night!!

Neil turned me onto these lights. Thanks Neil!!!

Rob
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Old 06/05/2009, 10:24 AM   #2
tomcwarren
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Rob,

Did you use the 30-LED bulbs? And what color? White or Red?

Any blinker circuit changes needed? Any slowdown/speed-up in blink rate, etc.?

Thanks,

Tom
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Old 06/05/2009, 10:41 AM   #3
JohnnyQuest515
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superbrightleds.com?

Which number? 1157-R30? Red? States same color as lens...

Which electronic flasher?

Thanks, Randy

Last edited by JohnnyQuest515; 06/05/2009 at 10:54 AM..

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Old 06/05/2009, 11:11 AM   #4
robert campbell
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Tom,
I did get the 30 LED. I chose the narrow pattern vice wide. For a stock single bulb Mustang housing I would think about the wide pattern as the bucket is much larger. The GT/CS taillight bucket is small. Red in color as recommended by the site. Look great and nice and bright.

No other modifications. Flasher seems a bit slower, but in my mind a more defined gap between on and off. I like it.

Rob
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Old 06/05/2009, 11:26 AM   #5
murf104
 

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Bob, can you post a link to the vendor of these LEDs? You are correct about the extra large load of the turn signal bulbs taking a toll on the TS switch, and when one has a swing away wheel the TS switches are expensive and at times difficult to source. I had considered the LED conversion but wasn't sure how they would work and if the wide or narrow bean bulbs were what worked best. A constant rate turn signal flasher is available so that no matter what the load sensed by the flasher it flashes the same speed. Grote is the manufacturer, and many truck supply businesses have them in stock since dump trucks sometimes have a trailer and sometimes do not but always need need very well defined flashing lights for turning.
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Old 06/05/2009, 12:38 PM   #6
robert campbell
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Here is the link. Neil is using them also and turned me onto the site.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/

Rob
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Old 06/05/2009, 01:46 PM   #7
JohnnyQuest515
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I want to use the electronic flasher so if anyone bought one let me know which to get!

Thanks, Randy

CSX4853
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Old 06/05/2009, 07:31 PM   #8
franklinair
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Along this same line of thought: Mustang Project offers LED's for the instrument lights. I put them in both my '68's. (www.mustangproject.com) The biggest PITA of course is removing the instrument cluster. You can get the LED's in red, white, blue or green. I opted for white (which requires the removal of the blue lenses on the instrument cluster), and am TOTALLY satisfied with the appearance & intensity.
You can also replace the front turn signal/parking light bulbs, and front sidemarker bulbs with LED's. The end result is superior lighting at a fraction of the normal current draw. This alleviates the current flow through the headlight switch & turn signal switch. A modern technology improvement which still allows original appearance.

Neil (Sparky) Hoppe
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Old 06/06/2009, 07:25 AM   #9
CougarCJ
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That looks like something I could use on both of my XR7's too.

I wonder if I could get a discount for 18 LED bulbs?

Scott Behncke
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West Coast Classic Cougar A good source for Mustang mechanical parts too.
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Old 06/08/2009, 09:35 AM   #10
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Hey guys stupid question will the lower draw also alleviate the interferences i the speaker wires and the sometimes humming you hear in the speakers?

So when I use the turn signal indicator my sound in the speakers cycles along with the flash at stop signs unless cruising at higher RPMs.

This happened back in the day with my 67 as well...wasnt sure if you just needed to insulate speaker wires.

Robert
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Old 06/08/2009, 09:59 AM   #11
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The lower amperage MAY alleviate the audio noise. Do you not have a noise filter (capacitor) connected @ the voltage regulator??

Neil
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Old 06/08/2009, 10:51 AM   #12
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Neil..I have no clue but will need to check once I an get to my CS.

Is this a basic after market fix that most people have installed or should it already be standard in line with voltage regular?

Thanks...

Robert
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Old 06/08/2009, 01:40 PM   #13
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Mine looks like an original installation, connected into existing wire harness @ V/R.

Last edited by franklinair; 12/30/2009 at 10:40 AM..
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Old 06/08/2009, 03:46 PM   #14
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Awesome thanks Sparky err Neil!! Ill take a look tonight.
(sorry to hi-jack thread)

Robert
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Old 07/16/2009, 12:23 AM   #15
p51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franklinair View Post
Along this same line of thought: Mustang Project offers LED's for the instrument lights. I put them in both my '68's. (www.mustangproject.com) The biggest PITA of course is removing the instrument cluster. You can get the LED's in red, white, blue or green. I opted for white (which requires the removal of the blue lenses on the instrument cluster), and am TOTALLY satisfied with the appearance & intensity.

Neil (Sparky) Hoppe
Neil

I'm thinking about adding these LED gauge lights. One question: Does the rheostat on the light switch still reasonably control the brightness? I was thinking that with the lower current draw of the LEDs that the brightness might be much more sensitive to the rheostat making it more difficult to set the brightness somewhere between off and full on. Any issues along those lines?

Thanks
James

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