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1968 GT/CS & HCS
2007+ GT/CS
1966-1967 HCS
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1968 The Joys of Owning a 40 Year Old Car!
- Thread starter Mosesatm
- Start date
Midnight Special
Well-known member
...What happened?
Diesel Donna
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2004
- Messages
- 2,007
No way Arlie......
robert campbell
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2007
- Messages
- 4,322
Or buy your house with a slope "into" the garage?
So what prompted this novel approach to "towing" your car back into the driveway?
Rob
OP
OP
Mosesatm
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2005
- Messages
- 9,178
Not sure what's wrong, yet.
I needed to go to one of our local cemeteries yesterday to resolve a minor crisis so I thought I'd drive the GT/CS to see if it still insisted on running hot. When I pulled into the cemetery the car made a couple major hiccups. Not a normal miss-fire, but a complete stop, then immediately start back up. I parked it and revved it a few times. It hiccupped a couple more times then smoothed out so I figured whatever the problem was fixed itself and I shut it down and went to work
When I finished my work and was getting ready to leave I started the car and drove it to the cemetery entrance. When I got to the entrance the car let me know it wasn't happy. It behaved like it was either flooding or starving. I could barely keep it running, so I coaxed it back into the cemetery and into a parking spot. I tweaked the timing and point gap and it ran great again. So back to the cemetery entrance we went, but it started running even worse than before, so back to the parking spot we went. I called a tow truck at that point.
I was able to drive it onto the tow truck so I figured I would be able to make it up the driveway. WRONG. It will start but it won't run well enough to move 5', let alone up the drive.
My 1st thought was that the timing chain slipped but I'm going with the cheapest fixes then progressing from there so I'm telling myself that the problem is just a torn fuel pump diaphram. That would explain why it started out with just a hiccup then kept getting worse.
The car was completely restored 20 years ago, but since then it has been driven only 3000 miiles. Such lack of use wreaks havoc on rubber parts.
If it isn't the fuel pump I'm considering replacing (or rebuilding) the distributor, carb, and timing chain, in that order, unless someone has another suggestion.
A few more tips when come-a-longing a car up a driveway;
- When operating the come-a-long make sure the parking brake is off and the car is not in gear. Believe it or not the car will move in that situation but it takes alot of effort!
- Make sure none of the neighborhood little kids are within earshot when you discover the emergency brake is on and the car is in gear!!!
- Don't forget to block one of the the rear tires.
- Make sure none of the neighborhood little kids are within earshot when you realize why a rear wheel should be blocked.
- Make sure the eye-bolt is screwed into a stud and not just the metal drywall corner bead. That bugger hurts when it pops out.
- Make sure none of the neighborhood little kids are within earshot when the eyebolt pops out of the metal corner bead.
I needed to go to one of our local cemeteries yesterday to resolve a minor crisis so I thought I'd drive the GT/CS to see if it still insisted on running hot. When I pulled into the cemetery the car made a couple major hiccups. Not a normal miss-fire, but a complete stop, then immediately start back up. I parked it and revved it a few times. It hiccupped a couple more times then smoothed out so I figured whatever the problem was fixed itself and I shut it down and went to work
When I finished my work and was getting ready to leave I started the car and drove it to the cemetery entrance. When I got to the entrance the car let me know it wasn't happy. It behaved like it was either flooding or starving. I could barely keep it running, so I coaxed it back into the cemetery and into a parking spot. I tweaked the timing and point gap and it ran great again. So back to the cemetery entrance we went, but it started running even worse than before, so back to the parking spot we went. I called a tow truck at that point.
I was able to drive it onto the tow truck so I figured I would be able to make it up the driveway. WRONG. It will start but it won't run well enough to move 5', let alone up the drive.
My 1st thought was that the timing chain slipped but I'm going with the cheapest fixes then progressing from there so I'm telling myself that the problem is just a torn fuel pump diaphram. That would explain why it started out with just a hiccup then kept getting worse.
The car was completely restored 20 years ago, but since then it has been driven only 3000 miiles. Such lack of use wreaks havoc on rubber parts.
If it isn't the fuel pump I'm considering replacing (or rebuilding) the distributor, carb, and timing chain, in that order, unless someone has another suggestion.
A few more tips when come-a-longing a car up a driveway;
- When operating the come-a-long make sure the parking brake is off and the car is not in gear. Believe it or not the car will move in that situation but it takes alot of effort!
- Make sure none of the neighborhood little kids are within earshot when you discover the emergency brake is on and the car is in gear!!!
- Don't forget to block one of the the rear tires.
- Make sure none of the neighborhood little kids are within earshot when you realize why a rear wheel should be blocked.
- Make sure the eye-bolt is screwed into a stud and not just the metal drywall corner bead. That bugger hurts when it pops out.
- Make sure none of the neighborhood little kids are within earshot when the eyebolt pops out of the metal corner bead.
Last edited:
hookedtrout
Well-known member
I feel sorry for those neighborhood kids, at this pace they can't be allowed over to see your CS at all!
Cory
Cory
Had a similar thing on my way to our Mustang Club meeting last month. Swore it was the fuel pump but it turned out to be the fuel filter! I have a steeper drive than yours so had it towed to my mechanic. $6.00 part, $100 labor charge, my GT/CS priceless!
Bruce
Bruce
robert campbell
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2007
- Messages
- 4,322
Arlie,
Fuel filter and pump is a good check. You can take the line loose for the carb and attach a rubber hose to it. Get a gas can and have someone roll the engine with the coil wire off. If it is shooting a bunch of gas the pump should be ok. Next check the fuel filter. Not sure what you may have on it. Do not light anything on fire, the neighbors have already been offended.
A huge dose of water can lie in the bottom of a carb. Once it gets to the carb, no amount of running will remove it. Water is heavier than gas and the vacuum created by the venturi affect in your carb will not pull it through the jets and emulsion tubes. Take the carb off and dump it out in a glass container. Many times you can see the water in the bottom of the glass. Don’t use the neighbor kid’s glass. His mother already does not like you.
A good way to check timing chains is to “roll” motor clockwise with 15/16 inch socket on vibration damper bolt. To find TDC number one remove distrubutor cap and watch as the rotor points towards number one wire on cap. Passenger side front plug. As you get close look at timing marks. If the motor lined up on marks has the rotor pointing a wire off in either direction on the cap, you may have jumped a tooth. After you look at this, reverse your ratchet. With marks still on TDC #1 roll counterclockwise slowly while looking directly at the rotor. If you move just a degree or two on the damper and the rotor moves the chain is more than likely fine. If it seems like it takes forever for the rotor to move, you have a very loose chain. Some slop is ok. My bet is not a jumped tooth if the motor only has 3,000 miles on it!
Rob
Fuel filter and pump is a good check. You can take the line loose for the carb and attach a rubber hose to it. Get a gas can and have someone roll the engine with the coil wire off. If it is shooting a bunch of gas the pump should be ok. Next check the fuel filter. Not sure what you may have on it. Do not light anything on fire, the neighbors have already been offended.
A huge dose of water can lie in the bottom of a carb. Once it gets to the carb, no amount of running will remove it. Water is heavier than gas and the vacuum created by the venturi affect in your carb will not pull it through the jets and emulsion tubes. Take the carb off and dump it out in a glass container. Many times you can see the water in the bottom of the glass. Don’t use the neighbor kid’s glass. His mother already does not like you.
A good way to check timing chains is to “roll” motor clockwise with 15/16 inch socket on vibration damper bolt. To find TDC number one remove distrubutor cap and watch as the rotor points towards number one wire on cap. Passenger side front plug. As you get close look at timing marks. If the motor lined up on marks has the rotor pointing a wire off in either direction on the cap, you may have jumped a tooth. After you look at this, reverse your ratchet. With marks still on TDC #1 roll counterclockwise slowly while looking directly at the rotor. If you move just a degree or two on the damper and the rotor moves the chain is more than likely fine. If it seems like it takes forever for the rotor to move, you have a very loose chain. Some slop is ok. My bet is not a jumped tooth if the motor only has 3,000 miles on it!
Rob
franklinair
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2007
- Messages
- 4,744
National Weather Service reported air turning blue over Texas. Now I understand.:icon_pani
Neil
Neil
aemoo28
Well-known member
aemoo28
Well-known member
Arlie, bring your car over to Rob's house on Saturday. We'll tackle your heating problem too. Then we'll head over to the XXX for a burger and a car show. Texas you say? Aw.
robert campbell
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- Apr 10, 2007
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- 4,322
Arlie,
That would be too fun! Heck I would barbecue a brisket for you!! I do them low and slow for 12 hours with apple wood as the smoke and heat. No gas or briquettes for Rob! Just seasoned apple wood from Eastern Washington. You can cut it with a fork!! Soaked down once an hour with apple cider! Tender with bacon on top, because bacon makes everything better.
We can talk ribs and pork shoulders later…… But lets talk heating. Maybe we can help!
Rob
robert campbell
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- Apr 10, 2007
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- 4,322
Arlie,
Before you rebuild, check for water in the carb. Floats (styrofoam) usually "die" slowly. Brass, never. Now a piece of grit in the needle valve.... Yep.
Rob
Before you rebuild, check for water in the carb. Floats (styrofoam) usually "die" slowly. Brass, never. Now a piece of grit in the needle valve.... Yep.
Rob
Doug
Well-known member
Maybe its just the Texas heat?
