1968 Heads rebuilt

[denvertom]

Hi,
I rather new to this forum and purchased a GT/CS in October. I'm in the process of taking it apart and cataloging parts. We just pulled the engine and tranny. Im looking for someone in the denver area to rebuild my heads that has some familiarity with working with and removing the smog tubes.

Also, how much should a rebuild job run on a set of heads who's valves look decent?

Any input is appreciated and enjoy this site.
Tom

 

[hicountrybob]

Hi,
I rather new to this forum and purchased a GT/CS in October. I'm in the process of taking it apart and cataloging parts. We just pulled the engine and tranny. Im looking for someone in the denver area to rebuild my heads that has some familiarity with working with and removing the smog tubes.

Also, how much should a rebuild job run on a set of heads who's valves look decent?

Any input is appreciated and enjoy this site.
Tom

Bob Teets here, we have a shop here in Arvada that is the real deal for us Mustang owners.

*** 2017 update by admin *** - Bob has retired. Please contact the new HCS registrar, Marty Rupp:

Marty Rupp
101 Pleasentview Circle
Weeping Water, NE 68463
ruppstang@gmail.com
402-416-7107

 

[dalorzo_f]

If you are going that route I'd suggest considering replacing the heads.

If you are going to dump the smog remove the old heads and smog stuff (assuming you have it) I'd think keeping it together may have value. I am not real familiar with the small blocks but the big block smog heads are nearly impossible to find... something a concours restorer may be interested in. If they were '68 390 I'd consider make an offer!

Others in the know could better note their potential value as original equipment, but they sure ain't making any more! :smile:

 

[CougarCJ]

Welcome Tom, tell us about your car. 3 or 4 speed?

Call Rob at Blue Oval, 303-762-8298, for Ford cylinder head work, he is located in Englewood.

 

[robert campbell]

Tom,
Give us an idea where you want to be at the end. Your comment about removing the smog tubes makes me think you are not a concurs guy and wanting a cleaner motor. Your intake manifold suggests it is a 4V 302 J code engine? Those heads are somewhat rare. And with the smog tubes.

So what is your goal? More performance and such? Or a stock motor just without the smog stuff. As suggested, you may want to save that stuff.

Now me, save all that stuff in your attic and lets build a motor! A Cheby stompin small block Ford!!

Rob

 

[Mosesatm]

Jon,
Is there a way for the site software to automatically send a message to all new members telling them to be wary of how Rob likes to spend other people's money, and how he drinks gross dark brown beer?

 

[stangfan]

Jon,
Is there a way for the site software to automatically send a message to all new members telling them to be wary of how Rob likes to spend other people's money, and how he drinks gross dark brown beer?

ROFLMAO!!!! :grin:

 

[denvertom]

Thank you all for the suggestions and comments. Ill be calling those listed soon.

My GT/CS is a J code with a three speed tranny. I'm taking it down to the bare bones to restore and give it a good clean up but am not going the concours route. I want to be able to drive and enjoy it on a regular basis.

It did have the thermactor system intact and i intend to keep it that way. For that matter I am keeping the car as stock as possible. I just was not sure if the injection tubes needed to be removed before the heads are rebuilt. If so, i wanted someone who is familiar with removing them undamaged. I have already sprayed the connections with PB blaster several times.

 

[robert campbell]

Jon,
Is there a way for the site software to automatically send a message to all new members telling them to be wary of how Rob likes to spend other people's money, and how he drinks gross dark brown beer?

Where have I been!!!! Yup, sloshing down a big dark beer and "crusin" the net looking for the most expensive parts to recommend to people is the high light of my day!!! Even more fun is being involved in the build where I can fondle the new parts and wish they were mine!!!

Arlie I have some Imperial Stout from Silver City Brewery that was aged in a bourbon key!!! 9.9 percent, nearly black in color, and smooth beyond belief!!! Almost a dinner in a bottle!

Rob

 

[robert campbell]

Thank you all for the suggestions and comments. Ill be calling those listed soon.

My GT/CS is a J code with a three speed tranny. I'm taking it down to the bare bones to restore and give it a good clean up but am not going the concours route. I want to be able to drive and enjoy it on a regular basis.

It did have the thermactor system intact and i intend to keep it that way. For that matter I am keeping the car as stock as possible. I just was not sure if the injection tubes needed to be removed before the heads are rebuilt. If so, i wanted someone who is familiar with removing them undamaged. I have already sprayed the connections with PB blaster several times.

Tom,
Tilt the heads so the plugs are a level as possible to hold fluid using blocks of wood. Kriol is my favorite penetrating oil. Get a "map gas" handheld propane style torch from your local hardware store. They are quite a bit hotter than a propane torch. Heat the head the best you can around the fitting and a bit below it. The heat will draw the penetrating oil down and into the threads. Turn the torch off and apply a small amount of the penetrating oil around the fitting to cool it a bit and then immediately try to move with a high quality fitting wrench that is not worn out. Snap On or Craftsman come to mind. Be very careful and try to budge them. If it does not move you can move the next fitting and try fitting and repeat.

Keep in mind the tube may be rusted to the fitting also. So if it breaks lose but the tube and fitting are not loose you can twist and break the tube. Watch carefully.

Lots of patience and lots of fussing.

Rob

 

[CougarCJ]

I have a friend that uses pure oil of wintergreen, I wish that I can find a bottle that stuff.

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Hey Guys, that's my old J-code.

denvertom,
I just saw your message on Facebook the other day. It was hidden in the "Other" inbox which is only visible on the web version of Facebook. I don't go on much lately and when I do it's normally on my phone. No message there unfortunately.

I did finally reply the other day with my email address.

Belated welcome to the site.
Good luck with the car! It was my first experience with these great cars and this great site.
I lost track of the car after it was sold at Barrett-Jackson a few years back, glad to have tracked it down again.

 

[BigJim]

While doing your heads I suggest you install hardened valve seats so when you burn corn gas you won't harm them.

 

[robert campbell]

IMO hardened seats are an old wives tale and our unleaded gas is not that abusive to cars that are toys.. If you have an old truck that is for pulling a trailer exclusively or a boat with non-hardened exhaust valve seats you should consider them. Toy cars like we have never see the abuse (hard work) that necessitates the need for hardened exhaust valve seats. And we drive them less than 5k miles a year, if that. Your stock seats will last for at least 100k. The math tells me that they are not worth it.

The other side of these valve seats is they sometimes come lose and basically fall out or start to twist in there seating area and then wear out quickly.

For our toy cars, I would never install them. Costly, problematic, and prone to failure with no benefit over the long run.

Rob

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Toy cars like we have never see the abuse (hard work) that necessitates the need for hardened exhaust valve seats.
Rob

Says the man with the lead right foot.

 

[mdtodd]

Lucas light pedestal kit

Bob Teets here, we have a shop here in Arvada that is the real deal for us Mustang owners. Give me a call. Arvada here, High Country Bob

Bob,
I would like a set of your pedestals for my mustang, how much are they and how do you take payment?