1968 Upper Control Arm Placement Question

[njmop]

I'm trying to fix some old modifications and damage to my CS and there are some things that I am not going to change, but want to make sure they are right.

The front brakes were replaced by previous owner with Granada disc setup. My front passenger wheel aways rubbed a bit with my 16" Torque Thrust IIs and now that I've pulled the control arms off, I noticed the offset mounting holes. Is this common? Could this be affecting my wheel clearance? I don't want to rebuild the entire suspension and then have to take it all apart again later. The motor is out and I have access to everything so take a look and let me know what you think.

Thanks.

 

[CougarCJ]

I have heard that 16 inch wheels have a common rubbing problem.

They commonly rub on the suspension, not the calipers. Is that your problem?

 

[franklinair]

I can't tell from the photos - are these the original UCA mounting holes? My first suspicion would be the 16" wheels are too big for stock suspension geometry. I've also never installed Granada disc brakes, but from what I've heard & read, they should be OK. Also, what about the offset of the 16" wheels?

Neil

 

[njmop]

They do rub the suspension a bit and I'll have to measure the offset...

No problem with the brakes.

The 16" inch wheels just have such sweet look vs. the vintage (not correct) 15"s that came on the car. I read a Mustang Monthly article that discussed wheels and I bought a set with the recommended front/rear tire sizes for clearance, but perhaps my offset is the issue...

I am replacing the end links and sway bar busings with poly bushings and I am also replacing the coil spring saddles and KYB Gas shocks all around. The ball joints are all pretty good. I have a complete power steering setup that has been rebuilt that will take the place of my tired PS system.

I think this should all go fairly easily, just want to be sure these control arm holes weren't looking "off" to those that have done this stuff before.

 

[franklinair]

Bushings: I've read numerous comments that the poly bushings are too hard for good cushioning (and cost more). Some folks install them 'cause they think it's an upgrade to 'state of the art', but you're really better off staying with the original type.
Coil spring saddles: If I ever get into the front end again I will purchase the roller bearing spring saddles. More costly, but all reports are very favorable.

Neil

 

[robert campbell]

Holes look normal to me. I hate to be blunt, but both shock towers have welds were they were cracked. The picture of the right one of course shows that someone tried to strengthen the tower by welding the inner braces to the tower itself. But both show welds where the tower itself cracked.

I hate to say this, but this car has been driven very hard! Does the left shock tower have similar welds on the inside?

Certainly some grinding is in order and you can dress them up alot.

I agree with Neil. Stay away form the poly stuff unless you plan to autocross or race. They are very harsh and will make your car feel like a dump truck.

I used the roller bearing spring purches on my car. They work great and do not effect the "ride" of the car. I would rebuild with quality stock stuff and you will be happy.

Big tires = rubbing in tight corners. As long as they are not ruining the fender lips you should be fine. Not sure from your pics exactly where they rub, but dropping one size in width may help.

When you finish if you use new coil springs, its "stance" will change. Drive it a few miles to let the supension settle in, and then be prepared to cut or alter springs to get the height the way you want it.

Rob

 

[njmop]

Very true on the shock towers. Major league welding on these things! There were cracks that someone fixed. The welds are ugly, but they seem strong. It looks like surgery was performed!

The roller saddles were very tempting, but parts costs are really starting to add up and those cost hundreds vs. $40. You get what you pay for and maybe I can upgrade in the future if I feel the need.

This car will not be a trailer queen because I don't have the time or resources for such a build. If it is old, busted, bent, rotted, split, missing or whatever...it's getting replaced though. I want a safe car that functions properly.

Keep these tips coming. I need to hear what works best for "normal" driving. I'll post periodically to show progress and for advice. Thanks all.

 

[robert campbell]

Normal driving = good stock parts! Many Mustang suppliers have packaged deals that are very reasonable.

Don't forget Club Pro!! Ron can get you a good price.

Rob

 

[rvrtrash]

+1 for the holes looking like they're in the right place and the problem being too wide a wheel or the wrong offset. I have to ask, with the shape those shock towers are in and the amount of work you're doing to the front sheetmetal, have you considered replacing the shock towers as well? I'd find good used not repop's if you decide to go that route, but with that much welding, the metal is probably pretty fatigued.

Steve

 

[Ruppstang]

I have a nice set of originals Marty