1968 Help Authenticating a GT/CS

[Gregpet]

We just bought our first 1968 GT/CS and got it home yesterday. The previous owner had the car for about 10 years (confirmed by title). I don't believe that there is any potential for deception on his part - as a matter of fact this may be all in my head but I wanted to get some feedback from the experts here on the site. My biggest fear is that the identity was stolen from a wrecked GT/CS sometime in the past and its parts and VIN were used to build a clone. I have had another VIN issue in the past so I may be overly cautious.

The dataplate on the door and the vin plate under the glass look genuine and as far as I can tell have not been removed and re-attached. The options listed on the Marti report (AC, front disc brakes) match the car as well as exterior paint and interior.

Here's the problem. The rear clip appears to be a regular '68 coupe that has been modified (poorly) to support the GT/CS tail light assembly (see picture). In addition, the hood has been modified to accept the hood locks. The car at some point may have been in a front end collision because both glass lenses in the fog lamps are missing (previous owner always kept covers on and never replaced lenses). Therefore, the hood may have been replaced and a poor installation of the hood locks. The tail light assembly concerns me the most. Has anyone ever seen a repair like this to a GT/CS?

I believe that the VIN is stamped inside of both front fenders. I was able to see some kind of code stamped inside of the front left wheel well (see picture). It looks like 2 24 D2 to me. Can anyone tell any info from this stamp? The car was built March 14, 1968 per Marti if this is a date code.

Could someone provide basic instructions on removing the front fenders (or a link)? The top six bolts are easy but I have heard there are a few that are hard to locate. Is a complete VIN stamped on the unibody or is it just the production number?

Are the parts available to bring the tail light section back to original?

The car came from Lubbock, TX (dry west Texas) so rust is not a problem. It runs but needs some TLC. I really hope I'm wrong about questioning the authenticity because we really like the car but we want to own a real one.

Any thoughts would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

Greg

 

[68 special]

Looks like mine does. Like someone took a pair of pliers and twisted out the center post for the stock tail lights. I don't think it has been replaced. As for the fenders, It's alot more involved than just the fender bolts. there's the obvious bolts on top and 1 behind the upper door hinge and one underneath, below where the rocker molding would go, or look below the mustang script. Also a couple behind the headlight bucket. You should be able to see the vin by just taking off the top row. I wouldn't take all out unless you have to. My .02.


Bret

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Hi Greg,

You don't indicate if the Marti Report lists the California Special option on it.

Aside from original paperwork, the Marti report is the only way to authenticate it.

That wouldn't prove the VIN and parts weren't re-used, but it confirms the VIN is for a GT/CS.

Is the engine original? Without having to remove the fender you could check the VIN stamped on the engine. It's stamped on top rear center of the engine. Easy to see if you remove the air cleaner.

I think we all go through some paranoia, especially if you've had an issue in the past. We all feel better once we get that confirmation by double and triple checking the VINs around the car.

Good Luck and let us know what happens!

 

[Gregpet]

So it sounds like this might have been the work of Ford itself? I know that a card board insert usually covers this area but it sure looks a little rough. Does everyone else agree?

If this is the case I won't bother pulling the fender...

Thanks,
Greg

 

[Gregpet]

Hi Rich,

Yes, the Marti Report does confirm the California Special so I know the VIN is a GT/CS...I just want to make sure this VIN goes with the car...I will check the engine stamp tonight as well...

Thanks,
Greg

 

[Mosesatm]

Taillights look perfect. In fact, they still have the original sealant around the holes.

If your decklid and end caps don't line up then you know for sure it's real.:wink:

 

[Gregpet]

That's great news! Thanks for everyone's help. Now I just have to clean out all the red west Texas dirt!

 

[somethingspecial]

When the cars were built as GT/CSs, they were pulled off the line and modified where they needed to be, ie. a hole saw was used to cut holes in the hood and taillight panel, and the original taillight pillar was cut out. These modifications were done with no care of clean up, ie. the edges were left rough and unpainted. One of the things that always seems to get overlooked during restoration, or clone in your fear, is the sealant around the taillight block off plates. Since yours still has that, my opinion is your car is probably original if the Marti report indicates it is a GT/CS. Keep in mind the factory was concerned about getting the cars off line and out of the plant. You will find lots of "Sloppy" areas such as "Oozing sealant" and/or "Sloppy weatherstrip adhesive". Sound deadener was sprayed in by workers who probably board and had been doing this job for years, so it is real hit and miss with no concerns of over spray.
The small # you ask about on the fender is a stampding date code for the sheet metal, You will find simular numbers throughout the car.
Mike

 

[mechanicalguy48]

The date codes on the fender seem to match with your Marti report. The 2 24 d2 decodes as Feb 24 and the D may be Dearborn stamping plant 2 shift or might just be "optional location - D" At any rate these should be within a month or so of your vehicle build date. Even that month is pretty loose because the factory would use whatever they had available. Aftermarket fenders were not stamped so the presence of those stampings means it is a stock item( could have been transplanted). My own CS has both stock fenders but the date codes are several weeks apart and about two to four weeks before the build date. You will find these date codes on numerous pieces.

 

[JohnnyQuest515]

Maybe you will find the build sheets, hopefully I will find mine also when reworking the interior.

Looks like a fine project.

Randy

 

[robert campbell]

Mechanical Guy is right on. Go to the back quarters with the trunk open and start looking. You should find date codes in the "trough" to keep the water out of the trunk and seal to the trunk gasket. I bet the dates will be similar to you front fenders. They should always preceed the build date, and sometimes they are weeks in front of it.

By the way, I see they removed both ribs that separate the stock tailight assemblies. My car is like that also. Many GT/CS's have one rib left in.

You have the correct taillight harness and the taillight install looks like something from a backyard job. Just like all GT/CS's!! Wait until you remove a side scoop and see the huge hole that looks like someone drove a large center punch through the quarter for the one mounting bolt. They are usually very ragged at best.

Rob

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Hi Rich,

Yes, the Marti Report does confirm the California Special so I know the VIN is a GT/CS...I just want to make sure this VIN goes with the car...I will check the engine stamp tonight as well...

Thanks,
Greg

I figured it did but couldn't hurt to ask.

Overall the car looks pretty original.

The tail lights have the original "chrome" color on the frame which would indicate they are original or a very early dearler replacement.

The only thing that jumps out at me as not original is the dual exhaust. That was probably added to the 289 at some point.
Does it still have the 289 in it?

 

[CougarCJ]

I figured it did but couldn't hurt to ask.

Overall the car looks pretty original.

The tail lights have the original "chrome" color on the frame which would indicate they are original or a very early dearler replacement.

The only thing that jumps out at me as not original is the dual exhaust. That was probably added to the 289 at some point.
Does it still have the 289 in it?

I like learning the little details like this Rich, I dug out my NOS tail light cover. It has the chrome! Ding! Ding!

 

[limelyt]

Greg

here is a photo of our orginial back panel, and by the way NICE color

Gary

 

[Mosesatm]

I like learning the little details like this Rich, I dug out my NOS tail light cover. It has the chrome! Ding! Ding!

Not to be a bubble burster, but the outer ring seems to be painted black.

Cute toe, by the way!

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Not to be a bubble burster, but the outer ring seems to be painted black.

Cute toe, by the way!

I was thinking the same thing Arlie unless it's the angle.

Cougar, The chrome color I was referring to is the part that is against the rear panel.

The outside frame I guess would be the best way to describe it as opposed to the part the "separates" the lights.

Is your frame black or chrome?

The blue GT/CS in the attached picture is with the black frame and the black GT/CS in the attached picture is with the chrome (original) frame.

 

[limelyt]

wasn't black outside only on the 68 Shelby?

 

[Gregpet]

I figured it did but couldn't hurt to ask.

Overall the car looks pretty original.

The tail lights have the original "chrome" color on the frame which would indicate they are original or a very early dearler replacement.

The only thing that jumps out at me as not original is the dual exhaust. That was probably added to the 289 at some point.
Does it still have the 289 in it?

It still has the 289. I checked to see if I could locate the VIN stamp on the engine but its pretty well covered in oil/grease/red dust. It's going to the mechanic later this week for a check up and an engine cleaning!

 

[Gregpet]

Greg

here is a photo of our orginial back panel, and by the way NICE color

Gary

Lime Gold forever! I love the black vinyl top on your car. I want to do the same.

The only thing I'm struggling with is whether to keep the original parchment interior or go black. It has a relatively new headliner (parchment) but otherwise will need most interior components and new paint...

 

[CougarCJ]

Not to be a bubble burster, but the outer ring seems to be painted black.

Cute toe, by the way!

Oh, all chromed is correct?