1968 Seat Cover Change

[Jester]

Hi,

Winter and its time for next step of restoration. Last winter I rebuilt the grille which was standard 68 and made a nice replica of the original and also changed grille mouldings, painted the grille and mouldings and pedestals, fitted the correct Lucas lights and fixed electrical wiring so the lights actually works.

This winter I am planning to change the seat covers, steering wheel and a few other interior things that are beyond recovery. I really enjoy driving my car during the summers and I'd like to have it on the road again by april, so the restorations I do, I keep small.

So my question is. Is changing seat covers something I can sort myself without previous experience? or is it something best left to a professional? I havent been long in this hobby, but I am not a stranger to a wrench either.

Advice is appreciated. If anyone has step by step instructions for how to remove the backseat and cover and refit it it would be even better.

Thanks a lot /Jesper

 

[Jester]

One more thing, I am buying a new horn ring and I see there is both chrome and argent. Telling which it should be from the original I have on the steering wheel today is not possible. I got a standard black interior. Is it the chrome one I should have?

/J

 

[p51]

Hi,

This winter I am planning to change the seat covers, steering wheel and a few other interior things that are beyond recovery...

So my question is. Is changing seat covers something I can sort myself without previous experience? or is it something best left to a professional? I havent been long in this hobby, but I am not a stranger to a wrench either.

I've never done any re-upholstery of seats so I have no personal experience. However, I did come across this video on youtube from CJ Pony Parts that discusses re-upholstery of classic mustang seats (using TMI products). It should at least give you an idea of just how hard it is to do yourself...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bc7xKc6A2T4

And another video from AutoRestoMod...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaw2HrgDI9A

There are likely other car seat upholstery videos on youtube as well.

 

[Ruppstang]

I think if you watch the instructional videos and you take your time you can do it. My advice is take one seat piece at a time. If the burlap has deteriorated you may need some help as it is a lot more work to start from bare springs.

The original horn ring was argent. If you do not care about originality the chrome looks nice.
Marty

 

[franklinair]

As Marty said, the original horn ring is Argent. (The new chrome rings do look better IMHO.)
I'm not talented (or patient) enough to do seat covers. I have upholstery shops do them. And I usually furnish new seat cushions to replace the 40+ year old foam.
Here's a Black Deluxe interior I did several years ago.

Neil

 

[robert campbell]

I have done a few of them. Cutting the old hog rings a tough job. Get a brand new set of side cutters in an extended length for more leverage. I was a sheet metal guy by trade and used tin snips for years and have a very strong grip, but cutting them is harder than you think. I did Val's high back 69 seats for her Fastback, and the top area is a trial in patience.

Attaching the seat back to the seat bottom can be dicey. I have a thin piece of Plexiglas with a slot in it that I push over and around the stud to protect the new upholstery from damage as I put them together. Sometimes is a nice two people job! Does not take long, but an extra hand is nice.

Have you thought about an upgrade. I did these for my GNS!! Fit on factory frames and I love the stitching and extra bolstering!! TMI sells them. They are their Sport 500 series. Adds a nice splash of color to a black interior!

Rob

 

[p51]

Have you thought about an upgrade. I did these for my GNS!! Fit on factory frames and I love the stitching and extra bolstering!! TMI sells them. They are their Sport 500 series. Adds a nice splash of color to a black interior!

Rob

Rob, those seats look really great! I love how they sorta look stock... but yet a whole lot better...
James

 

[robert campbell]

Thanks, I love them! They are available in a bunch of colors!

Rob

 

[rvrtrash]

I've done a few sets, and they can be a bit difficult to do correctly. Getting the material stretched and fitting right, without wrinkles, is the hardest part, but possible with patience. You'll want to buy some hog ring pliers and rings, and a heat gun. It's best to do them on a hot summer day so you can lay the covers out in the sun to soften them, but a warm shop and heat gun will get you by.

Steve

 

[dalorzo_f]

Some tips I wrote down a while ago.... HTH

1. If they are in good shape, take them apart carefully, take notes, and take pictures. Keep the old listing wires, even if rusted for reuse or reference for making new ones. Mark where the originals used hog rings, misplaced ones can wrinkle the final lay of the vinyl. Wire coat hangers make great listing wire if you need new.

2. Repair any broken/sagging springs. The trimmer at the shop doing my body/paint and conv top got me "zig-zag" and it only takes a little time to figure out how to bend it up to fit. Makes a huge difference if you have worn springs.

3. Buy a hog ring cutter or small pair of bolt cutters (I bought 12" ones after wrecking my hands taking the first set apart). One of the best $7 investments I've made. Side cutter won't work ( I broke two) and twisting out the old rings with pliers wrecks the wiring and is very tedious. BUY LOTS of hog rings if you are stripping to bare frames, I went thru almost two bags (the ones they say do a whole set) on each cars seats.

4. If your going to repaint the frames, consider powdercoating. I painted my convertible seat frames, powdercoated the coupes. A little bit more for PC but way better look and way faster. (Assuming your going for a full strip/restore). If you don't have the drivers seat hinge pin repalcement, get it. It bolts on and was a safety recall. I heard on FoMoCo.com you can still get one free from Ford, but don't know if its true. Think NPD sells 'em for $20 or so. Way stronger then the original welded pin.

5. Get new seat foams if yours are old/original. Not cheap but well worth it. When removing the old foams be careful with the upper part on top rear of the seat and the two strips down the sides of the back. They are not reproduced.

6. Get a good pair of hog ring pliers. You DO need the right tool. It will save heaps of time and frustration.

7. On the rear seats there are two wires running down the side of the hump. These are HARD to hog ring. I used a 8" piece of coat hanger wire, bent it into a U shape and pulled the listing wire from the top down to the frame from below with vise grips. I could them hog ring from below. This took about 20 mins on my second set, from above on the first (before I came up with this plan) it took an hour or more and a lot of missed rings that had to be cut out.

8. New burlap on the frame is nice, the wires are not necessary. I also placed a piece of carpet underlayment between the burlap and the foam on the seat buns front and rear. It will keep the foam from sinking into the springs. A tip my shop trimmer gave me.

9. Soften the vinyl in the sun, or in the dryer (heard about this, here the Queensland sun is real hot so didn't try that one0. If they seats are tight (and they will be) work 'em on as far as you can, then hit em with some heat (sun or hair dryer). Thnis will soften the vinyl and allow it to stretch a bit over time. I got a bit agreesive on my fisrt seatback and put a small tear in the stitching, luckily it was in a not too visible spot and repairable. Go slow and take your time. they will stretch and amazing amount if you're patient.

10. Take your time and have fun! It a bit time consuming, but a weekend or two is plenty to get it done.

I found the books to be of some value, the Osborne FAMs show parts, nubers of hog rings, etc. The Art Trantafello Interior Resto Guide book is "OK", has some general tips, but was of marginal use for the price (here it ran me $30!). There are some sequence tips, what to hog first, how to roll the vinyl on the frame. If you want this info I can paraphrase it if you; "start in the middle, work your way out from there, roll the corners over the frame carfully, check alignment of seams before placing any rings".

 

[Jester]

Thanks a lot for all the input. I shall order the new seat covers and tools and have a go at it. Worst case I have to swallow my pride and take a half finished job to the shop.

Very nice looking seats there Rob... Sigh...the constant question...stay true to authenticity or make the car exactly what you want... I wish I had the money to have 2 cars and do both...

 

[joedls]

Thanks a lot for all the input. I shall order the new seat covers and tools and have a go at it. Worst case I have to swallow my pride and take a half finished job to the shop.

Very nice looking seats there Rob... Sigh...the constant question...stay true to authenticity or make the car exactly what you want... I wish I had the money to have 2 cars and do both...

To me, it comes down to who you're rebuilding the car for. Are you doing it for you to enjoy or for others to enjoy? If you're doing it for you to enjoy, build it the way you want it (even if the way you want it is the way it came from the factory). :wink:

 

[robert campbell]

Gotta agree with Joe!! Build it for fun and comfort in my mind! If originality is your bag, go for it, but do not shy away from some tasteful mods because you think it devalues the car. It does not!

Rob

 

[p51]

...Sigh...the constant question...stay true to authenticity or make the car exactly what you want...

My opinion... "make the car exactly what you want"... unless it's a numbers matching big block in concours condition...

My upholstery is pretty new but if I had to re-upholster seats I strongly think about TMI. They have both standard seats and seats like Rob's - standard looking but with a little extra - the kind that makes you do a double-take.

 

[clubpro]

Do you mean like these? They are the most comfortable vintage Mustang seats that I have ever sat in. Now they were in a standard coupe so it was an easy decision to make. When I purchased new seat foam for my High Country I really struggled with do I go with stock or do I go with the sport seat foam and then also buy the upholstery to go with them. I chickened out and went with the stock foam. The car is so rare I have to have it original. That's just the way I am.

Cheers!

 

[Jester]

Main problem is I am not sure what l want... I do some smaller mods possible to back track to original if l want, but new paint is coming up in a year or two and I have serious psychic breakdowns if to keep the original meadowlark yellow or make it presidential blue. Well, I have a year or two to make up my mind. For the covers I decided to go with the original standard bucket seats. I like them. But it shows I will need a lot of help with the interior on this one...

I started with the simple thing I thought, replacing the horn ring. (Standard steering wheel) Removed the pad and then couldn't figure out how to get the horn ring off. There are 3 small screws, but I can't see what tool to use... Pointers please. Thanks /Jesper

 

[franklinair]

1.) Remove the connector from each horn.
2.) With the center pad already removed, push the CENTER of the horn ring inward
and twist it Counter Clockwise (like unscrewing a light bulb). You will feel a spring
pushing against your hand's pressure.

(The 3 screws you mentioned have nothing to do with removing the horn ring.
You will need to remove them in order to install that center piece on the new horn ring.)

Neil

 

[Ruppstang]

1.) Remove the connector from each horn.
2.) With the center pad already removed, push the CENTER of the horn ring inward
and twist it Counter Clockwise (like unscrewing a light bulb). You will feel a spring
pushing against your hand's pressure.

(The 3 screws you mentioned have nothing to do with removing the horn ring.
You will need to remove them in order to install that center piece on the new horn ring.)

Neil

+1 Marty

 

[Jester]

Ok the horn ring was easy with that knowledge. Now to the back seat upholstery. Or almost because first I need to get the seat out. I know I should push the front of the cushion down and push it back. It doesn't move. Any pointers?

 

[franklinair]

NO. LIFT the front of the lower seat cushion UP. Once it clears the 2 retainers, pull it forward.
The seatback cushion is secured with 2 screws @ the bottom. Remove them, then lift the seatback UP to clear the 2 retainers.

Neil