teach me how to hook up some wiring!

[wally05]

Hey guys,

Tonight, I removed the carb and will be rebuilding it and installing the electric choke on it. Now, I have to hook up to a power source that only comes on with the key in the on position. How do I do that? Do I have to cut and splice or just slide it in somewhere? Help! I have some equipment to do this, but I've done very minimal work like this.

Korey

 

[rvrtrash]

I prefer not to cut and splice wires unless it's absolutely necessary, and in this case it isn't. Here's two options for you. First is to find a wire with a female terminal that has 2 or 3 recepticles. It will be a flat plug with the recepticles side by side. These are usually used for hooking up multiple accesories and often have 1 or no wires plugged into it. Use a meter to insure there is no power present with the key off but has 12V with the key in the on position. The second is to get a clip that fits over a fuse end and has a male spade terminal as part of it. Radio Shack used to sell them. Find a fuse that has power when you want (such as the radio or heater fuses), put the clip on that fuse and plug your power wire onto it.

Steve

 

[wally05]

Yeah, I really don't want to splice and if I don't use a fused line, I'll need to cut and attach and inline fuse... are these what you are talking about?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...p=&sr=1&origkw=fuse&kw=fuse&parentPage=search

 

[wally05]

this is what the wires look like...

http://www.holley.com/data/products/pictures/large45-223Sv2.jpg

Do they have the correct end for a fuse tap?

 

[rvrtrash]

That's not the right part from Radio Shack, and I did a search of their website and don't see the item so they may not make it anymore. We're back to finding a wire connector. On your kit, the two terminals on the choke cover are called spade terminals-male to be exact. The wire ends that connect to them are called female spade terminals. The other end of the wires have ring terminals. The wire that hooks to the neg side (-) on the choke cover will have the other end, the ring terminal, mount to the housing with one of the screws. For the positive wire, I would cut the ring terminal off and splice in a longer wire, or use male and female bullet crimp connectors with a longer wire to reach under your dash. I can't get to any of my cars right now to show you the connector you're looking for, but it's usually yellow, flat with 2 or 3 female bullet connectors molded together side by side, and will have only one wire going to it. If you can't find something like that, I'll rearrange my shop this week so I can get a door open and take a picture.

Steve

 

[wally05]

So, should I just cut the ring terminal off and put a new male terminal on to connect to that connector?

 

[wally05]

also, I know what the connector looks like, I had them on my 66 fb. What gauge wiring should I use and how should I connect the wire from the carb to the longer wire? I'm newer to electronics. I've cut and crimped new ends on stuff before but that is it.

 

[wally05]

Haha, another add-on. I guess I should add an inline fuse also, eh?

 

[rvrtrash]

Thinking about it further, since you need to buy extra wire anyway and the factory wire looks like it's only about a foot long, I'd just run new wire from where you're going to tap into under the dash all the way to the choke cover and put a spade terminal on. Saves on connections! I would use an 18 gauge wire, which should be plenty. Your kit wire looks like it's about 20-22 gauge in the picture so just make sure your new wire is a little larger. Yes, run an inline fuse. It's cheap insurance.

Steve

 

[robert campbell]

Next to Steve, I am kinda an electrical hack, but my cars do work and have not burned to the ground to date.

My favorite source in the engine compartment for a "keyed" source that does not work when you are in the accessory position is the "block" that feeds the backup lights and neutral lockout switch. in fact I have converted many an automatic car to 4 speed and all of sudden it won't start.... well dummy, you took the auto out and never plugged anything back into that plug. car thinks it is not in park or neutral.... need to install a jumper you dummy.

I spliced into the wire at this plug near the firewall where the throttle linkage comes through on my CT/CS for the electric choke. Only works in the run position. Lets me listen to tunes without burning up my choke or taking it out of cold sequence.

Rob

 

[wally05]

Is that on the interior side of the firewall, then? I might just go into the accessory stuff first for simplicity, but I'll probably find another source down the road. I'm going to go buy the wire and such tonight.

 

[wally05]

Edit: Haha, got it figure out!

 

[wally05]

Okay, with the recent warm weather, I've concluded to hold off on the intake installation and just get the car running again. It's been sitting too long. I have new carb with electric choke. The only molded-together female bullet connectors I found were ones that were red with a blue wire going to it. I'll keep looking. I'm going to have it running before dark hopefully.

 

[XR7G428]

You can also power this off the sta (stator) terminal on the back of the alternator. There is only voltage at this location when the alternator is turning. Hence, no problem with the key switch.