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. update - stalls when hot

66hcs-conv

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
362
Hi all,

Prior to driving the '66 to a car show, (about 30 miles 1 way) I reset the timing to around 10 degrees advance (thanks Rob), and installed a phenolic spacer between the carb and intake manifold.

In prior drives, going the same route, the car would die when I slowed down and went thru towns. The temp would go up going thru a town.

Made the same trip this past weekend and the car ran great. Did not get as hot and runs lots better with the slightly advance timing. :wink:

THANKS, Dave
 
Last edited:

Mosesatm

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Messages
9,036
Do you have a dual-diaphram vacuum advance on the distributor?
 

green56

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Messages
516
Stalls when hot

Were would I get this part phenolic spacer would I get it from NAPA? Thanks Tom from Wisconsin
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
Hi all,

Prior to driving the '66 to a car show, (about 30 miles 1 way) I reset the timing to around 10 degrees advance (thanks Rob), and installed a phenolic spacer between the carb and intake manifold.

In prior drives, going the same route, the car would die when I slowed down and went thru towns. The temp would go up going thru a town.

Made the same trip this past weekend and the car ran great. Did not get as hot and runs lots better with the slightly advance timing. :wink:

THANKS, Dave

Dave,
Sneaking ahead a couple more degrees to 12 will even be better. If the engine will still start hot and no pinging..... More is better. If you have a degree tape on the damper or a timing light with a degree gage on the end, try to keep it at 36 to 38 total degrees BTDC with the vacuum plugged in at 3,000 RPM.

And as you "micro dial in" your cars timing, I can even help with adjusting your vacuum advance diaphragm. You can use an allen wrench on the newer versions to reduce the amount of vacuum and when it comes in to fine adjust out some part throttle pinging.

This is all fun stuff!!

Rob
 

teamlo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
259
I've been playing with the timing in my '68 (J-code), and found that it likes 16 degrees of initial advance. I'm using the MSD 8352 "Ready To Run" distributor with vacuum advance to the ported vacuum connection on the carb. With the 2 light blue advance springs and the black advance bushing, I'm at 37 degrees total advance, all in by 2800 rpm. The high initial advance is causing me no problems at all. Starts right up, even when hot. No pinging whatsoever. Really made the car idle A LOT better, and throttle response is MUCH improved. Runs cooler too. I was chasing a bog, thought it was the carburetor. It was the timing. All better now!

Terry
 
OP
OP
66hcs-conv

66hcs-conv

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
362
I got the spacer from Holly carb.

THANKS Rob - I will play around with it.

Dave
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
I've been playing with the timing in my '68 (J-code), and found that it likes 16 degrees of initial advance. I'm using the MSD 8352 "Ready To Run" distributor with vacuum advance to the ported vacuum connection on the carb. With the 2 light blue advance springs and the black advance bushing, I'm at 37 degrees total advance, all in by 2800 rpm. The high initial advance is causing me no problems at all. Starts right up, even when hot. No pinging whatsoever. Really made the car idle A LOT better, and throttle response is MUCH improved. Runs cooler too. I was chasing a bog, thought it was the carburetor. It was the timing. All better now!

Terry

Terry,
Both of my cars are at 18 degrees BTDC. I have mini starters on both. The Fastback use a Mallory Unilight and the GNS with the blower uses a Mallory E Distributer. Both are all in at 3,000 and right at 38 degrees with no vacuum advance. The Fastback is a 13 to 1 compression engine, so it wanted a better starter.

Just like you, these engines love a lot of initial advance. More power, better mileage, and less heat. You can cheat the stock distributors a bit, but the answer is a modern after market that can be adjusted to shorten up the centrifical total amount and dial in more initial.

Rob
 
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x-codegtcs

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Joined
Sep 5, 2002
Messages
549
Location
Kaysville, UT
I know I am a little late to the game, but thought I would share this with everyone. The attached file is a copy of Pony Carbs instructions how to set timing on an old Ford that I got when then restored my FE Tripower. This may or may not work for modern ignitions, but I would think so - especially based on what I have read from everyone here. So I hope this helps!
 

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  • Timing.pdf
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robert campbell

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Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
Drove my GNS with the blower in 90 degree plus heat today. 160 thermostat. Car runs right at 170 on the road at 40 miles an hour an up. 60 drops even a bit more. Electric fan is not needed until you hit stop and go. Then it sits at 180. Mustangs Plus aluminum radiator with electric fan combo. Perfect!

Rob
 

x-codegtcs

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2002
Messages
549
Location
Kaysville, UT
Drove my GNS with the blower in 90 degree plus heat today. 160 thermostat. Car runs right at 170 on the road at 40 miles an hour an up. 60 drops even a bit more. Electric fan is not needed until you hit stop and go. Then it sits at 180. Mustangs Plus aluminum radiator with electric fan combo. Perfect!

Rob

90 in Washington? Dang!
 
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