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Once you have found the locations a laser level works well to get them strait and leaves no marks on the car. Just keep it set on stun and you will be ok. LOL

The one that I have is a C8OE-D.

Loosing and retightening is the best solution. I have had some that I have had to cycle several time before it seated. You were wise in not over tightening. Marty

If some one wishes to post theirs that would be up to them. Their are a number of benefits to club membership such as the clubs class rules, online judges testing, club web site, the Mustang Times magazine and member discounts with various vendors. I realize that for those that are over seas...

Tari and I have all of the MCA judge sheets but we are not allowed to give them out. If you are a MCA member you can go to the MCA web site and pull up judging rules. You will find that they are all most a mirror image of what you will currentlyfind on a judge sheet. Marty

I think I have one. I will check tomorrow.

Neil you deserve a e for effort no I mean a big E! I think I may have just started with another harness.

Do not think that is OEM it should have a Ford part number that I can not remember right now.

If you are talking about the floor pans I would use a pressure washer then a solvent to remove the oil then finish with WD40 on a rag. Most of what is on the floor pans is dirt and oil. Marty

Here is a better cart that came from Tool Mart. If you can not find it goggle Mustang carts. They are also not hard to make. Marty

When I restored our HCS I wanted it to be as close to as assembly line correct as I could make it. I removed the rust from the parts with Evaporust and then lightly coated with Bosheild that is a clear paraffin and oil preservative. If you media blast to will loose the natural metal texture and...

I know what you mean, I am trying not restore my current project but it tough to mix the look of what you have had to repair and the unrestored. It looks to me you car is going to look mostly restored so I would repaint provided you can match that color. That is a nice original, note the lack of...

The dolly came with the Shelby and is a bolt together frame that the body just sits on. If you like I could call the PO and find out where he purchased it. Marty

I have to admit it was a bit painful seeing our car of all most 20 years drive away with some one else. The gentleman from Colorado who bought it has been dreaming of owning a 68 fastback for 15 years so I know it will be well cared for. To answer your question it was replaced with a 1968 GT350...

Thanks to all that looked at our car. We sent it to it's new home in Colorado today.

A proportioning valve is a different part but another difficult part to rebuild.

It has been a while since I did one of those. First remove the plastic switch then soak it in a 50-50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone for a few days. The tough thing about the drum brake one is you can only work from one side. Put it in a vice and using a punch lightly tap on the piston...

Tom sorry to hear that hope you will be ok. Marty

Do not use exhaust manifold gaskets on any early Ford engines. They were machined to seal and it is important because metal to metal dissipates the heat out of the manifold. Other wise in time cracks may develop. Marty

The MCA excepts either. In the research I did for the HCS I discovered that the wire and stapled clamps were used most of the year at San Jose. At that time Kevin Marti was not making those. I call and asked if he could make some for me and he did. Now I see that he is making the and selling...