1968 Gauges

[whodat]

Does anyone know if I use aftermarket electric gauges can I use the current sending units that came with the car? Also can the factory gauges and aftermarket gauges be used at the same time?

 

[csgt428]

Generally speaking you need to buy the senders that are specific to the new gauges. As far as keeping the original gauges working I use a "T" brass fitting at the oil sender tube and mount both senders to it. The water sender is more problamatic as most (if not all) stock intakes have only one site on them and using a "T" fitting would not be a good solution due to the design of the senders..(and ugly to boot!). There are the drain plugs on the side of the block which could be used however....If you are using an aftermarket intake manifold they generally have at least two places you can put water temp senders.

 

[dalorzo_f]

There are numerous in-line fittings that can be added, if you are willing to cut the rad hose and mount a second temp sender there...

One, of many, examples...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2280

 

[franklinair]

Why do you require duplicate indication?

Neil

 

[dalorzo_f]

My guess would be that many like mechanical gauges to really see what is going on instead of the "Hot/Cold and "Hi/Low" minimal info you get from the OEM units.

I put dual units for oil pressure and water temp on my S GT coupe for initial break in to keep a close eye on what was really happening for the first bit of use. Dials in the gauges and shows if they read consistently....

 

[whodat]

Why do you require duplicate indication?

Neil

I was just wondering if it could be done. I am going to use some autometer gauges with some gauge cups like I saw at a car show. to see what the temp and oil pressure is when I put the rebuilt engine in. Neil I am going to call you tomorrow. I have a question about the a/c parts list you sent me.

 

[franklinair]

I'm old fashioned:
I verify the accuracy of the original oil pressure gauge by hooking up a direct reading gauge to the oil press outlet to check idle & 2,000 RPM oil pressure. Then I know what I'm looking at on the original gauge.
I do the same exercise on the temperature by using a thermometer, and relating that to the temp gauge pointer.
The ammeter is a different story: That circuit is so unreliable I had the ammeter converted to a voltmeter.

Neil

 

[whodat]

I'm going to have to do that then. It will definitely save me some money on gauges and cups. I got one of my answers from Classic Auto Air, but they didn't explain how to flush out the evaporator coil. Thats what I need to find out. I'm going to get the complete under the hood package.

 

[franklinair]

Flush the evaporator with an A/C flush solvent, then blow air thru it to dry it out.
Since you're replacing the underhood items (compressor, hoses, expansion valve, drier, and condenser), opt for the oversize condenser- its more efficient to work with R-134 freon.
When the system is all installed & fittings are torqued, I let my vacuum pump evacuate the system for at least 8 hours (29"hg vacuum). Then turn off vacuum pump and see if the vacuum holds for 24 hours. If it doesn't, there's a leak somewhere.
I've got a vacuum pump & guages if you need them.

Neil