keeping her clean

Was looking for some outside opinions, since I don't really trust the magazines-they might be biased 'cause of advertising- What are you all using for Chrome, Wash, and Wax?
My rocket was getting suzzed by "Rain Dance" and shined by Griots, but was never really happy with results (it did have a pretty bad paint job to start with though!!)
Any suggestions?

rocketeater,

For my money, you can't go wrong with anything Mothers makes! Try the california clay bar and you won't believe the results! I thought I had a nice wax job until I used the clay bar on the whole car, man! what a difference especially to the touch! It takes out so much of the impurites in the wax build up! Be prepared to spend about 4 hours washing, claying, and waxing tho.....Just try a fender and see if you don't agree. The kit is about 15.00...

I personally use the mequiar's products, Once my initial waxing was done, I keep it maintained by the Final Detail they put out. I've had excellent results.

When we got our car painted the shop guy said that turtle emerald series was good to use. My dad always used Mother's on his but I like the emerald series from turtle wax. I use a regular chrome cleaner/polisher (might be from turtle) for all the chrome. Windex no drip for glass and armor all for the inside. I also take a scrub brush to the mats with dawn to get dark scuffs off.

I have heard you shouldn't use armor all on the dash, but instead lemon pledge. Eventually, armor all with crack that dash when enough sun hits it..

It is my understanding that if you use armor all, you need to use it frequently. Otherwise it dries out and then you get the cracks. So I guess it depends on how often you want to use it, and how much sun the dash gets.

I use meguiars wax and mother's chrome polish.

I have been in the body shop business for almost 20 years now. And in that time, I have used or tried most everything on the shelf.
My advice to all is this..... If your paint job is 10 years old or newer, it doesn't really need any waxing. I recomend any brand name "Hand Glaze" without any type of carnuba waxes in it. Todays paints and clear coats have all the UV protectants and emoliants in them that a wax provides. All you want to do when polishing is feather the scratches, extract the dirt and bring it back to a nice shine, not coating or covering the problems with a waxy surface. It would be like putting on a winter coat over another coat. Will you be warmer? probably not.
Always remember, paint expands, contracts and breathes like your skin. If you prevent it from doing that with a wax coating,it will start to form tiny cracks and model the paint.
We have all seen cars with laquer cracks all over the large surface areas. This is caused by dirt, wax, sap etc. not allowing the surface to expand under harsh climate changes.
In closing, I recomend only hand glazes for restoring your finish. 3M, Maguires, and Mothers are all good products to use (as they have all the same ingredients). Older paint jobs will benefit from this advice as well, however, they may require a little more abraisive glazes or staged applications.
The only real way to protect your paint and chrome is to ALWAYS keep your "stang" clean and out of the harsh elements.
My CS was painted back in 1979 with the old style Dulux single stage paint. It has never been waxed in it's life and still wins trophy's today!
Just my two cents. Hope it helps.

quicknick,

Just curious, how often do you "glaze" your car? My paint is 12 years old and it is a lacquer(?) yellow. California clay bar really worked wonders on it, but I know wonder if "glaze" would have done the same?

Clay is an awesome product. We use it at the shop for removing overspray from glass and chrome after a paint job. It's sole purpose is to extract the stubborn foriegn matter. Especially on older paint jobs like yours. You did the right thing.
You can use it first for getting the big stuff, then hand glaze next to restore the shine.
I recomend the application of hand glaze about twice a year. I do it in the spring before the first car show, Then again in the fall before the cars get put away for winter storage.
The application process is the same as waxing. (wax on, wax off Danielson).
You may even find it easier to remove than wax since it is not as thick and pastey. (is that a word?).
You will see the same results as a wax job without the nasty wax buildup in the body edges and under your emblems and moldings. It is water soluable and will wash out of the cracks in a few washings. 3M makes a great hand glaze and machine glaze if you have a buffing wheel. These products are available at any of the larger auto centers such as Auto Zone or Pep Boys.

I also own a 2000 Saleen with some wicked acid rain spots, etc. (Never buy black cars...shoulda learned!)Will the clay/glaze regime work on that paint as well? I was told that another method may be to have it wet sanded again, but not sure thats smart either. Thanks

If the black Saleen has acid rain embedded into the clearcoat and you can feel the crater with your fingernail, I would take it to a trusted body shop and have it professionally wheeled out. The body man will know exactly what grit paper to use and how to restore the surface areas without leaving swirls on your black finish.
Also, this should be covered on your insurance. Check it out.
I absolutely love black cars.... I hate working on them! The pleasure's pain!

Quickie,
Pastey is a word, however, it is used around strip clubs too! Anyway, would the clay bar work on acid rain or is the professional his only hope?

If you could look at your paints finish with a microscope,(even with the best wet sanding and buff job) you would see tiny scratches, pits, and orange peel. It kinda looks like the surface of the moon.
The clays sole purpose is to extract the dirt from those deep grooves and valleys.
The harsh chemicals in the acid rain drop literally eat through the surface of the clearcoat leaving the paint underneath indecently exposed.
The clay would have no effect on this as the clearcoat finish would be perminantly scarred.
It would definately require a professionals hand.
Also, thanks for correcting me on the "pastey" word. We don't have those here in Michigan. Our girls at the strip bar wear nothing! Life is good.