1968 Lights flickering during idle

[390gtmustang]

if your turn signal switch is faulty you need to replace. Especially if it jumped and fried your brake switch. No other choice in my mind. Type in turn signal switch in this sites search engine and you will find all sorts or directions on its replacement.

I would not run any GT/CS without at least LED's in the tail lights. Failure is imminent.

Rob

Rob,
I pulled my headlight switch and from what i can see its bad, looks real old and the dim switch for dashlights is black and brittle . How do you check if switch still good?

Well need part no. for headlight switch , turn signal switch, and led lights.
I am just gonna replace it all. Is Scott Drake good for our CS cars?
Thanks
Mark

 

[franklinair]

Mark;

superbrightled.com P/N 1157 30LED, red, wide angle. $9ea you'll need 6.

T/S switch: specify Scott Drake brand.

H/L switch: no preference.

You May have to swap out the T/S flasher (due to less current draw of LED's)

12V originates @ H/L switch, goes to Brake switch, then to T/S switch, then to brake lites.

Neil

 

[390gtmustang]

Mark;

superbrightled.com P/N 1157 30LED, red, wide angle. $9ea you'll need 6.

T/S switch: specify Scott Drake brand.

H/L switch: no preference.

You May have to swap out the T/S flasher (due to less current draw of LED's)

12V originates @ H/L switch, goes to Brake switch, then to T/S switch, then to brake lites.

Neil

Neil

Where do I get the flasher and what kind do I need? Do you have a part no?
Thanks
Mark

 

[390gtmustang]

Ok cleaned and tested headlight switch and seems its ok.
I have ordered led lights, I will start with that before I replace my T/s Switch.
Thanks

 

[rvrtrash]

Ok check 2 wires on brake switch one has 12 volts and other one grounded to negative. Thats why everytime I step on my brake its just shorting out on the pedal switch and making my lights flicker to a point turning off, I also noticed like my engine idle kinda gets rough when I have my foot on the brake. I have short somewhere. I started to check my cables in the trunk all looks good. Pulled the driver side plug to tail light, wire still gounded pulled the passenger side plug its good, wire not grounded anymore. I tried pluging one side and wire grounded again, as long as i have one plugged in , the wire remains grounded. Or maybe Im just measuring continuity of the bulb. I will pull out my tail lights tomorrow and see whats making it short out to ground.

Sorry I'm late to the discussion, and hope I'm not stating the obvious, but when you checked voltage at the brake light switch, did you check it with the brake depressed? If you checked it in the "up" position, 12V on one side and ground on the other is normal. You don't get 12V on both sides until you press the brake pedal and close the switch. You would read "ground"/ 0V on one side of the switch with the brake pedal in the "up" position as long as at least one side of the taillight harness is plugged in, because the taillight bulbs complete the circuit path to ground. If there was a bad connection at the switch, it would cause the connector to heat up and appear "burnt". It doesn't necessarily mean the issue is elsewhere. The new switch may have fixed that. As for the car running rough when you hit the brake, have you put a vacuum gauge on the engine? If it's not tuned correctly and the rpm's drop to 500 or so, it will do exactly as you state, or there could be a leak in the power brake booster (if you have one) that's causing a vacuum leak when you hit the brakes. Just some thoughts.

Steve

 

[390gtmustang]

UPDATE:
LED lights did it.
Thank you all again

 

[x-codegtcs]

Very interesting!!! Thanks for sharing!