stock carb on these cars?

[wally05]

Was the stock carb for a 68 gt/cs an Autolite 4300? I seem to remember that they switched over to 4300's in 68. Also, Rich, if you read this, do you know if this Holley 0-1850 I'm finding in receipts is what is on here now? I'm sure I'll find out tomorrow night when I actually get to work on it, but I was curious. The receipt is from '92.

Korey

 

[CougarCJ]

Yes, 4300 if for a regular production J code 302-4V.

1967 was the introduction year for the Autolite 4300.
Couple of exceptions in 1967 where the Autolite 4100 carried over. Namely the K code 289 and the Shelby Mustangs (Holley).

 

[BroadwayBlue]

Was the stock carb for a 68 gt/cs an Autolite 4300? I seem to remember that they switched over to 4300's in 68. Also, Rich, if you read this, do you know if this Holley 0-1850 I'm finding in receipts is what is on here now? I'm sure I'll find out tomorrow night when I actually get to work on it, but I was curious. The receipt is from '92.

Korey

I believe that receipt is for the Holley Carb currently in the car.
I found that in the trunk when I bought the car inside an old Holley box. As far as I know it was for that carb.

 

[robert campbell]

Korey,
The number “List 1850” should be stamped on the front of the “airhorn” that contains the choke butterfly if you remove the air cleaner. Very common after market carb from Holley. 600 CFM vacuum secondary four barrel. Fuel inlet on the passenger side and a slender straight tube on the driver side that connects the front and rear float bowls. Very good carb and should work great on your car! The 4300 is stock for a 302 J code. Good carb and also a great fit for a 302. Not the easiest carb to find. Kinda rare but still available.

Rob

 

[wally05]

Thanks for all the responses, guys. I'll get some pics up when I work on it tonight. I've only rebuilt one carb before (an autolite 2100) so I'm hoping that this doesn't need it, haha. I was thinking of going for a 4300 rebuilt by pony carbs when the money comes. But, I think after I tune up the holley, we should be set.

Korey

 

[wally05]

I think the 1850-s has a manual choke on it. At least mine doesn't have an electric choke. I'll keep looking at it. It doesn't have a choke rod attached to it.

 

[wally05]

It definitely has a manual choke setup on it that was permanently set to wide open, which would cause it to run lean when it was cold... Now, there is nothing attached to the manual choke... how do I fix this?

 

[robert campbell]

Korey,
This 1850 series came either way. Yours is the manual choke. Where the auto choke is normally, there is a manual linkage that opens and closes the butterfly. Is it gone? Or it was it an auto choke and they just removed it and “wired” the butterfly open?

If it is gone, then you have some decisions. Most cars need a choke unless they are so high performance you don’t care. Lots of novices don’t understand a choke and disable or remove them.

That carb will accept a auto choke in ether the electric or “heat tube” style. I recommend the electric.
You can purchase just the choke, but it will set you back about $50 bucks. Might find someone on ebay or visit a local wreck yard or shop with one lying on the shelf.

This carb can be made to work great on you car, but it seems it needs parts and work. If you are leaning toward originality it may be time to bite the bullet. Make sure whne you do this that you have all the other little items such as the choke stove and you have exhaust manifolds. If you have headers the choke stove style does not work well.

Wish you lived close. I could help you through all of this.

Rob

 

[wally05]

Thanks for the reply, Rob. The replies help plenty.:grin:

The 4300 used a heat tube from the exhaust, correct? I think what I may do is just convert it over to electric so it can be driven and just do some adjustments. The carb is clean and solid, so I may just use it for now. I'll slowly get the parts around for a conversion back to the original 4300. I'm just a little afraid of the tempramental 4300 and it's reliability, haha. So I may go to Pony carbs for the help. I'm going to pull the plugs to see how the engine is burning and go from there. The 1850s like to run lean I've heard, so the constant wide open choke is bad, haha. I rebuilt a 2100 a few months ago, so I have a decent understanding of choke assemblies and I'm confident I can switch it over to electric and just keep the manual parts. How much might some original manifolds and a stove cost?

I'm not too worried about it as it just snowed here last night, haha, so there is no rush. I like working on it as it seems to make me appreciate the car even more.

 

[wally05]

I think what I'm going to do for temporary relief is just get a holley choke cable/handle assembly and mount it under the dash. There is a knob that pull out just below the steering column that is not hooked up to anything and pops out. I'll mount it there. Anyone know where that plastic knob goes to? I'll get pics. It pulls out and may be to the vents or something.

 

[rvrtrash]

It's probably the vent knob, and you'll want it at some point. There is also a knob/switch for the fog lights. When I get a chance, I'll go out and get the numbers off my manifold and carb so you know which ones you're looking for. The piping from the manifold to the carb is available aftermarket and runs about $20-25 if I recall correctly.

Steve

 

[wally05]

That's what I figured. I did decide to just pull the carb, rebuild it, go electric choke for right now. I tested it out with manually adjusting the choke plate and it definitely improved the engine performance. The carb is 15 years old and I have to pull it anyway, so I might as well rebuild it and get some exp. with the Holleys, haha.

 

[wally05]

I'll be swapping to the correct autolite and manifolds sometime in the future, but part numbers would be great to have now so I can start searching. For 50 bucks, I'm just restoring the holley so I can drive it and keep it fresh throughout the winter. (when it's not rainy/snowy, of course).

 

[robert campbell]

Summit has the electric choke conversion kit for $49.95. Part number HLY-45-223 for internal vacumm. I am pretty sure that is the one you need. HLY-45-224 for external vacuum source. Page 23 in their latest catalog.

Rob

 

[wally05]

Yep, I got the one for the internal vacuum source and a rebuild kit. Now, I just don't know how exactly to wire the positive side to a 12 v ignition source... any help?

 

[rvrtrash]

There are lots of places under the dash, at the fuse box or one of the accessory pigtails, to tap into 12V. Make sure you use an inline fuse though, to protect everything.

Steve

 

[robert campbell]

Make sure it is a "keyed" source. One that is hot only when the key is in the on position. Then make sure you don't go down to the garage and turn the key on and listen to a couple songs on the stereo before starting the car....

This will srew up the sequence big time!!

Rob

 

[wally05]

Haha, true. Does this car have an accesory position? I'm once again away from the car and I don't remember. Would that be okay being turned on first?

 

[robert campbell]

Yes, but be sure that you check that you didn't find a wire that is hot in the accessory position.

 

[wally05]

Haha... well, here's to not frying myself! (takes a swig of coke)