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OK - I found my leak - the d-block has a hairline crack on one of the fitting points and the line can't get tight enough AND I can't even loosen the fitting to dissemble the line/d-block...I am now so damn mad that I am ready to throw something, but I know it will end up just costing me more...

For future reference, the standard 67 bracket holes are left in tact - that is, not filled in and present. You can see both top holes unused in Arlie's and my photos, so no need to fill them in when/if you decide to go that route.

Here are some photos from my brackets and grille. The rivets measured approx 0.23" dia and 0.023" in height at the center of the truss. The first set of 4 photos show my rebuilt grille with the wrong rivet type - but correct rivet placement The next 3 show the original GTCS grill rivet head...

Lee - Richard's photos below look correct. The rivet is semi-tubular and so your example looks pretty correct, but maybe a bit rough. I will see if I can get a photo of a factory finished rivet for you. Richard - Your rivets look correct, but the spacing doesn't look like my original...

It is a C8OE-6015-A - sorry too many a's in the last one...I should have checked the block before posting from memory. The block is part of an all numbers matching 289 2v motor - heads, intake, exhaust and block cast dates all within a week or so of each other.

I have a 289 2V motor that is a C8AE-A block.

Thanks guys! Always a wealth of information here!!!

OK - so I am preparing to put the hood bumper stops back in and I am wondering if someone with an original GTCS would be willing to measure the OD of the washer that goes under the adjustable bumper stop that is mounted at the joint of the fender aprons and radiator support and confirm the color...

looking Awesome!!

Lee - In my experience, the screws are pretty rusted...they are just the self tapping pan washer head phillips head - if you want it to be good you may want to order new from NPD or another shop. There is a junk yard in N CA that has them...Since they are stainless, if they are straight, then...

Thats called urban camo...

Rob I have sent you a PM

Thanks guys! You are the best!!!

originals were not welded - they were just stamped and the bends show the deformations. Lee - I have been sorting through my stuff and found a set if you are interested...these are the repops from Delta Bay I bought. $150 including shipping.

OK - finishing up the wiring on the AC - I think I understand what is going on, but want to check with the experts: The main under dash harness has a yellow and brown lead that normally plug into the heater blower motor. The yellow connects to the AC blower motor and the brown one is left to...

Marty - I am fighting another issue and once I can get my rear off the jack stands, I will put the 10 spokes I bought from Branda on the front to see if any single caliper clearance issues...I was hoping to be done by now but it's that darn "1 step forward, 2 steps back" thing...

+1 on the Jim Osborne manual... There are two possible connection locations 1) Near the center - just over the gas pedal "brackets/arms" in the engine bay, there may be two different wires - one is A/C if you have it and the other is for a neutral safety switch for automatics. If it is a...

Steve - I have an extra clock sitting here - let me know if you want it.

Pretty interested in the clock sized tach - if anyone hears of one available, let me know. thx!

Thanks - mine was a melted mess so I couldn't tell what went where or how it connected to the dash pod.