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Carb spacer to cover. Can anyone confirm the look? Have one with a green stripe and "AC" in letters maybe ~1/4" tall spaced along the length.... OEM? Or would it have been painted blue on the originals, know the S codes were but not sure about the small blocks....

Engine is coming back together, bodywork is pretty much done and its getting primer next week... Engine is repainted, manifolds blasted and hit with Cast Blast as they were just too grotty to clean. Some parts are just cleaned as I am trying to go too far overboard with the "repaint"...

Believe that the UCA's were natural. And the LCA's part black (dipped) and part natural, near the ball joint. The drag link, tie rods, idler, all natural. PS ram natural steel. Anyone got photos of OEM? Or what would be considered a "correct" restoration? Painting the parts off the GT/CS...

Did they use a carb spacer from the factory? Do not recall if mine had one, and the photos I have are not clear on this detail. And it was a replacement Motocraft carb, so not sure how correct its mounting was. Have a correct restored 2100 to go back on. Anyone got a pic of a factory...

As I have a spare dual exhaust setup from one of my S codes was thinking of just using it on the C code (stock engine configuration). Not a huge benefit to go to dual exhaust, but thinking if all it takes is an H pipe go that route as it saves a ton of $ over a totally new setup. As I already...

As noted in the other post I am "refreshing" my 68 GT/CS. The engine was not rebuilt, but will be removed, cleaned and painted. Most "easily" accessible gaskets and items were removed and cleaned as well. (valve covers, fuel pump, oil pressure sender tube, water pump, etc) Went to put the...

Have done the PB versions, but this is a bit different. Anyone know of a how-to on disassembly and repair (and if kits are even available) Pulled the end cap and see a "screw" (slot) end of a brass lug. It does not want to move and I am unsure if it threads or not. I don't think so but odd...

Late April build.... have seen both tower and stapled used on the main rad hoses, generally Wittek towers on the heater and pump bypass.... What was factory for that timeframe?

Ok, minor issue that's bugged me for years. Came up today when looking at the newly painted lid for the GT/CS and checking out the 289 sticker... None of the displacement stickers I have ever seen match the curve of the lid. They always run a bit small in radius and do not align to the curve...

8RO1C148541 http://www.justmustangs.com.au/forsale/#444

http://blog.flickr.net/en/2013/10/04/crafting-scenes-of-iconic-americana/

Having a hard time finding the SEMS Titanium noted in other posts. I do have a can of the NPD AP-GPA '70 dark charcoal for grille/trim. It is close to the Cast Blast I previously used. Close to the original? Closer than cast blast which is a bit flatter...

Anyone got a few close ups of a factory 289 water pump? I think mine may be a replacement, but am not sure... no date code I can see and oddish looking casting number that look after market. How available would date correct (late 8B or early 8C) ones be?

The trunk area in mine is sprayed black. (quarter panles areas area around gas tank, tail panle inside surface but not the full bracket where the gas filler goes. Not the top of the tank. Assumed it was a PO deal, but am not sure as with the taillight caps sticking thru (black) and the...

Were they painted the same color as the grille or separately in SGB and then attached to the grille? Rivets are natural?

Related to the current paint job and engine post. The OEM cap has polished up really well. only issue is the black paint is a bit faded and worn. I'd like to reuse it as its original. Has anyone attempted to repaint the black around the running horse and rest of the badge? Tips and tricks?

As noted in the post on the main site I am "refreshing" my GT/CS. The engine is out and will not be rebuilt but I am removing most easily removed bolt-ons, cleaning and painting. Looking for info/photos on the OEM look as while its not going to be a concours restoration I figure its easy...

I believe that most Mustangs had the rear valence hung by 2 screws and painted on the car. Was this same method used on the GT/CS's and the fiberglass panel painted separately and then applied over the pre-painted tail panel?

8R01C139356 http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6877.0

Know its a C8ZZ-9030-C, but in looking for a replacement for the repaint noticed NPD sells a "68 GT/CS" base for about $130 and a "67-68 Shelby" for half that. Thought the base was the same and the only difference was the logo/applique on the lid?