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Unsure what's so hard about just buying the individual parts? Kits are a PITA for vendors in this, and similar areas, as it limits stock and increased overheads for those like NPD that actually warehouse parts, not order-as-they-go-and-forward as some of the others do. If someone needs a LH...

If you want correct and have the right sized bar, buy the Scott Fuller repros... very nice parts.

I've had my body/paint shop cut and patch this on 3 cars, I don't weld,. I used the NPD parts as donors for the areas replaced. No issues on any of them, and far less work to patch. If done properly just as good as replacing panels, and to me has the added benefit of leaving more of the...

I'm thinking Ford may have altered numbering and its a 70's variant....

Typical flanged stub snout and press fit as with a PS one. It is probably off some other line as all the Mustang refs I have and have found on the web make no mention of it... Looks pretty much like the 7AA, 6AA, and AF ones I have on the shelf, just a slightly different OD size and height.

The pulley is FoMoCo, stamped 5Z AIA... and a "C6" with a smaller "S2" under it. I can't find a reference. Anyone know what it might be from? Single sheave, and about 5 3/4" diameter. ? :undecided

I found a color called Dark Titanium Metallic that was a newer Ford color (forget the year) and a local Auto shop that premixes rattle cans could make it up on demand from that. Maybe try that reference... ??? It looked very close to the OEM examples I saw, but that was photos based...

The heater block valve only stops flow thru the heater core. It allows the AC to cool the water in the core, not fight constant flow of 200+ degree water as always runs thru the non-AC heater core. With AC on and the valve in the no-flow mode there is still circulation thru the block and...

Well, in a few years he may be out of work. Most, if not all of the auto manufacturers are heading that way, and its already in common use. Has been for about a decade. http://www.eastwood.com/water-based-paint-water-based-auto-automotive-car-paint...

The problem with the old codes is finding a current match. Different modern makes will all vary for the "same" color. Especially in the new water based formulas. If you have a known original patch in good condition (hidden under carpet or protected inner area), the best course of action is...

Mine is a Dec '67 build date. Oddly the VIN stamped original engine is July dated.

The S codes never required PDB's. as noted only with the GT option. Think the confusion to many comes in with the "390GT" engine = "GT" option, which means is should have discs. False assumption (one I deal with a lot from the well intentioned but ill informed with a non-GT 68 S code) See my...

Yeah, the "I wish I bought more back then" is a nice game to play... but factor in inflation... The $3700 car increases to $26k in basic terms. So "good value", but add up all you would have spent maintaining (unless you had a big free climate controlled shed for the past 40 years!) it and the...

'68 S code "BOSE" FoMoCo internal space filler order, factory drums. S code option engine, no discs, no GT called out... S GT coupe built 6 days later...GT and PDB both noted as options. To me this would indicate drums were standard equipment on an S code. I would guess one could have...

Nice! Would suggest if you do write it to clearly note the use of the "390GT" engine in 67/68 S codes, does NOT make the car a "GT". Amazing how many still don't get the distinction, and have people note my convertible is "wrong" as it has 390 badges and no GT ones... and drums, as it came...

Period correct look.:wink:

Example images here... http://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/legacyplates/index $50 a set, not bad. We pay $450 minimum for a special plate in standard pre-defined number/letter formats, up to $2000 for a truly custom one up to 7 characters... I miss US prices! :wink: MC & HNY to all!

Did not do mine but the guy in New Zealand who did told me he chamfers the slot ever so slightly and glues it in place. Then clear over the top.

Just repair the spot well enough to replace the nut. Way easier/cheaper than replacing an apron that looks to be in OK shape. The hinges are adjustable anyway, so even if you had a minor misalignment on reinstalling the nut its not a problem. Have done it a number of times with no issues.

Have used MMO as well as when I had none on hand adding a half quart of ATF to the engine for a short while before changing the oil. Both provide added cleaning action over just oil to remove small amounts of crud... IMO it can't hurt.