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Should look about like this...

Believe that the UCA's were natural. And the LCA's part black (dipped) and part natural, near the ball joint. The drag link, tie rods, idler, all natural. PS ram natural steel. Anyone got photos of OEM? Or what would be considered a "correct" restoration? Painting the parts off the GT/CS...

Thanks... found the one that came off the car in one of the boxes of parts. Has the wire type clamps, as in Jeff's photo. The hose has a green stripe and "AC" inked on it ... would this be OEM PCV?

Yep, have the look on the two S codes, one with and one without the bumperettes. Will leave the GT/CS w/stock non GT rear valence...

If you are lucky. San Jose was very good at removing them. The can also be under the carpet, under the dash taped to the wiring, under the rear seat, or wherever the worked stashed it... AFAIK there was no common place they were "supposed" to be put as they were to be removed as they were...

Did they use a carb spacer from the factory? Do not recall if mine had one, and the photos I have are not clear on this detail. And it was a replacement Motocraft carb, so not sure how correct its mounting was. Have a correct restored 2100 to go back on. Anyone got a pic of a factory...

Thanks for confirming, I keep forgetting A codes were dropped in 68 for the J. I have turn downs so just need the H pipe. Steve, did you notice any differences after putting on the duals, other than note? Did you go OEM style transverse setup?

I checked that, the other timing gasket (timing cover to pump plate) is fine and fits perfectly. I ended up cutting a new one out of make-a-gasket sheeting. I have sent NPD a query as the kit was listed for 65-73. Anyone seen an issue like the one with the balancer?

As I have a spare dual exhaust setup from one of my S codes was thinking of just using it on the C code (stock engine configuration). Not a huge benefit to go to dual exhaust, but thinking if all it takes is an H pipe go that route as it saves a ton of $ over a totally new setup. As I already...

As noted in the other post I am "refreshing" my 68 GT/CS. The engine was not rebuilt, but will be removed, cleaned and painted. Most "easily" accessible gaskets and items were removed and cleaned as well. (valve covers, fuel pump, oil pressure sender tube, water pump, etc) Went to put the...

Doug, yours is far neater than mine....!!!

An option for "home schooling" might be to buy a MIG (or whatever welder you are looking at, MIG seems to be the best option for the home DIY-er for this hobby from the little I know on the subject) and having it on site. That makes it easier for someone to come in and show you the ropes on...

Here is one outline of the 1-5 (some go to 6 for a basket case in pieces) rating system. Most people over rate cars on this scale, as a 2 is a good "show" car. 1 is a trailer queen that is dead-nuts-on in every respect. http://classiccars.about.com/od/buyingadvise/qt/ratingtip.htm And one...

Need pics and more on the condition of the car. Using the 1-5 scale as it needs paint and only has some new parts (you don't say if the engine and trans were detailed or not) it probably in the 3-5 range (most likely a 4, or maybe a 3) Based on this post...

See this thread, page 2... http://californiaspecial.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10733&page=2

Ask any questions, posting to help those that may be considering the same process...

As a "collectable" original color will work for some, especially a white is not as polarizing and some of the other colors. As you are painting to flip it resale red is (unfortunately IMHO) popular. If its a fairly original car, then non-original paint will turn some off. No real...

Umm... on Ebay.... I searched for "Mannell Small Block Ford" or something similar (don't recall exactly) and it came up in a search...

I'd suggest looking into evening/weekend vocational courses on auto body work. Not sure about there, but here in Oz there are numerous options for this type of learning.

One step closer to paint....