1968 Beating the heat! Any thoughts on radiators?

[GT/CS S Code]

Greetings all!
Well, we're just about to start the final round (I hope) of work on our "S" code 390 GT/CS. The plan is to pull the engine and install a new set of Tri Y headers that just arrived from Stan down at Ford Powertrain Applications in Puyallup, Washington. He built them from a template for a set that he fabricated for a big block 68 Mustang (428) with power steering so that we can now re-install our previously missing PS components. (A previous owner removed the PS from our car when the Hooker headers that he installed wouldn't clear the PS.)
While the car is apart I would like to upgrade the cooling as well, since we had some trouble with overheating up at Kamloops last summer when we attended the "Hot Nites in Kamloops" show and shine event up there. Anybody got any recommendations on a suitable big block radiator that will help to keep our needle in the middle of the gauge during hot weather or when trapped in slow moving traffic? What are your thoughts on an aluminum core 3 or 4 row unit to replace the existing conventional copper core rad? We'll also install a replacement fan shroud at the same time, as it doesn't have one right now.
We want to do this right, and we only want to do it once! Your thoughts on the matter are sincerely appreciated ...

 

[franklinair]

I had good luck using a 4 row radiator, 180 thermostat, fan shroud, 5 blade fan. Don't know the pro or con of aluminum versus copper cores. (I used copper)

Neil

 

[rvrtrash]

I can't speak to personal experience, but can pass on reports from the Sunbeam Tiger group I belong to. The Tiger is famous for overheating, and the concensus is to install an aluminum radiator with an electric fan. Aluminum sheds heat faster than copper and the electric fan runs at the same speed whether you're in traffic or on the highway. A fan shroud is a must and seal any openings in the radiator support so the air is running through the radiator rather than other holes. As a side note, the black paint we all put on our radiators to make them look pretty actually reduces it's ability to shed heat.

Steve

 

[di81977]

Go aluminum. Copper is getting expensive and aluminum is better. If you do go aluminum, pay attention to the antifreeze you use. Make sure it is compatible with aluminum. It certainly won't look stock, though.

An electric fan will make a huge difference when in traffic or stopped. It ensures a constant stream of air over the radiator.

I installed a Portell radiator and flex-a-lite electric fan in my Corvette a while back. Great combo and I feel like I could drive it in any conditions without any problem. Portell also makes radiators for Ford's and their Zirgo 16" 3000CFM fan is hard to beat for under $100. http://www.portellradiator.com/radiators_ford.php

On my HCS, which had a built up 393 stroker engine, I installed a NPD 3+ row radiator. I thought the price was really good and it is an ok radiator. I ended up installing a fan from a late model Taurus. They are cheap, plentiful and there is a ton of info about these radiators (and the Lincoln Mark VIII) on the internet. They pull a crazy amount of CFM's and have an integrated shroud.

Good luck!
David

 

[J.Bart]

in my 69 torino cobra, i used the factory style 4 row copper, with a 160 deg. thermostat
then installed two electric fans on an electric thermostat.
it cools my stroked 427 fe block just fine.

 

[DeadStang]

For the stock look, I'd either just recore an original big block radiator or install a Griffin aluminum radiator and paint it black--no one can tell unless they look really closely.

In one of my '69 428 cars, I did Pony Trails a few years back with the re-cored stock radiator, fan shroud, stock fan and working fan clutch, and stock (195 degree) t-stat. It was about 95 degrees and we were stop-and-go going to park in Leavenworth and it was fine. In another big block I have, it has the aluminum Griffin painted black (which I didn't realize when I bought the car until I noticed the beautiful tig bead along the tank) and everything else also stock, and I have no problems overheating with this car, either. If you go aluminum, however, be sure to get the radiator cap that's for dissimilar metals...I can't recall what they call them, but NPD has them--they look stock but have a different insert and cost about the same.

 

[GT/CS S Code]

Thanks everyone!

Awesome info and exactly what I need to know. Again, just want to do it right and only do it once ...
Further to our new set of headers, I'd highly recommend Stan at Ford Powertrain Applications that built this set for us. Stan was mentioned in another thread on this site and so I contacted him about our PS clearance problems which ended in our ordering a custom set of Tri Y's from him. On his recommendation we went with the "Gray Ice" high heat protective coating too and they do look very nice and won't rust up like the old set of Hookers that we're replacing! They came complete with a very high quality set of gaskets and a custom drop bracket for re-mounting the PS.

Ford Powertrain Applications
2526 23rd Avenue SW
Puyallup, Washington
98371
253-848-9503

Stan is a very knowledgeable and friendly guy, and he builds a nice set of headers ...

Cheers,

Al

 

[J.Bart]

you might try putting some polish to the headers.
most of the ceramic style coatings will polish to look like chrome

 

[GT/CS S Code]

BLING! BLING! BLING!
:grin: