1968 Broken wire at temperature sending unit

[stangfan]

I was doing some detailing under the hood and managed to break the temperature sender wire off right at the elbow. Is there a way to open the elbow up to reconnect the wire or do I need to get a new harness?

 

[franklinair]

Its possible to splice on a ring type terminal on the end of the wire and secure it with a nut.
If you want to maintain originality you'll have to replace the harness.

Neil

 

[CougarCJ]

If it broke off that easy, it was hard and brittle. New engine gauge feed harnesses are fairly inexpensive.

 

[stangfan]

Thanks guys. I had a closer look at the elbow itself, and it is cracked, so there is more going on than a broken wire. Think I'll get a new harness and be done with it.

 

[stangfan]

Got my harness today. It's a Scott Drake product and looks pretty good except for the connector for the ignition coil. The one on the car has an eyelet that slips over the post and is held on by the coil nut. The repro has a spade-type connection that I can see no way would work. Going to swap the one off the old harness. Why would they not use a correct connector??

 

[Ruppstang]

Got my harness today. It's a Scott Drake product and looks pretty good except for the connector for the ignition coil. The one on the car has an eyelet that slips over the post and is held on by the coil nut. The repro has a spade-type connection that I can see no way would work. Going to swap the one off the old harness. Why would they not use a correct connector??

The original connector was a booted slip on connection. Possibly your was replaced.

 

[stangfan]

The original connector was a booted slip on connection. Possibly your was replaced.

What would it have looked like? I've had two 67 and two 68 Mustangs and I'm pretty sure they were all ring type connectors.

 

[Mosesatm]

If I remember correctly it should be a 90 degree yellow boot.

 

[stangfan]

We are going to splice the broken connection and I will look for one of these 90 degree connectors. I have already looked at the NPD and Scott Drake catalogues and didn't find anything. I might try the local parts stores to see if they have any generic ones that would work.

 

[Ruppstang]

Here is a picture of our 68 S code engine. The red wire with a green stripe and black boot is the part of the engine harness. I have bought a number of them and they always have the 90 degree boot. The colored boot goes from the coil to the distributer and can be different colors depending on what engine and distributor were used. Often the boot is removed to use Pertonix ignition system that uses a eyelet terminal.

 

[stangfan]

Here is a picture of our 68 S code engine. The red wire with a green stripe and black boot is the part of the engine harness. I have bought a number of them and they always have the 90 degree boot. The colored boot goes from the coil to the distributer and can be different colors depending on what engine and distributor were used. Often the boot is removed to use Pertonix ignition system that uses a eyelet terminal.

Thanks. This helps a lot.

 

[stangfan]

I have been unable to find a 90 degree adapter to use the spade type connector on my harness. I will most likely end up cutting it off and going to a ring type. Oh well.

 

[Ruppstang]

Why do you not just buy a new engine feed harness?

 

[stangfan]

Why do you not just buy a new engine feed harness?[/QUrl. My old harness has a ring terminal, while the new harness has a spade type, which will not connect to the coil.

 

[Ruppstang]

The spade end on the white with red stripe wire is for the oil pressure sender. As I said In a earlier post the coil wire is a red wire with a green stripe.

Here is the one you need. NPD has it.  

Item # 14289-4C



Brand: Alloy Metal Products

Units: EACH


$23.95

 

[stangfan]

Here is a picture of the harness. My understanding is that the two elbow connectors are for the temperature and oil pressure senders, which would mean that the third connector should be for the coil.

You mentioned in an earlier reply, that if the car has been converted to Petronix, then the coil connectors would be ring terminals. My car has the Petronix.

Thanks for finding the part number for the NPD harness. I would probably have gone for that one, but now that I have already spent $54.00 on this harness, I will probably just replace the spade connector with a ring.

 

[Ruppstang]

The wire with the spade end is for the oil pressure sender. To make that harness work for your pertonix you will have to cut off the spade connector and move the elbow from one from the red wire that is sheathed. That is the coil wire. You can put the eyelet on there for the pertonix.

 

[stangfan]

The wire with the spade end is for the oil pressure sender. To make that harness work for your pertonix you will have to cut off the spade connector and move the elbow from one from the red wire that is sheathed. That is the coil wire. You can put the eyelet on there for the pertonix.

The spaded wire is too short to be for the oil sender. The elbowed connector is longer for the oil pressure sender. Also, the oil sender on this car is a post connection, for the elbow.

 

[Mosesatm]

Does you car have a tach and an oil light?

 

[Ruppstang]

The spaded wire is too short to be for the oil sender. The elbowed connector is longer for the oil pressure sender. Also, the oil sender on this car is a post connection, for the elbow.

You need to look at the wiring diagrams and follow the color codes on the wires. There are some small ones in the back of the service manual but the electrical assembly manual is better. Some oil pressure senders use a spade connector.