• Welcome to the CaliforniaSpecial.com forums! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all our site features, please take a moment to join our community! It's fast, simple and absolutely free.

    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

    Please Note: If you are an existing member and your password no longer works, click here to reset it.

1968 CS/GT Trunk lid Weatherstripping????

CaliStang68

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2012
Messages
302
All,

Can someone send a pic of their CS/GT trunk lid weather stripping? How it goes/routed on and where to buy one. Any advice also welcomed. I saw an older post from 2012 has anything changed since then (besides prices LOL?)

Thanks
Rick
 

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Depends on if you want the original style (repros can be hard/stiff and seal poorly0 or a softer alternate.

The seal goes on the trunk lid. I find it easiest to apply with the lid off the car.

If original the "C" shape points with the opening inward. See this site (one of many that posts the same generic pic - http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Rubber/trunk.htm)

Most vendors sell this version.

I found for the fiberglass lid the 69 (IIRC) style seal works better. Not correct, but far softer and provides and easier seal. Its a trapezoidal with 3 hollow "tubes" inside. Nice and soft and squishy...

I bought mine for Tony Branda, not sure who else may sell it. http://www.cobranda.com/trlidwe.html I think it was the 69-70 version I used, they have no pics of the sections, and just don't recall off hand...

Whichever you go with... I find the middle of the seal and glue from the front center of the lid around to the latch. Prefit to be sure its long enough (most have a lot of spare length, so no issue there). When I'm about a foot from the end I lap the two ends over each other, make a mark above the latch at the center, and cut one end square. Glue that in, then run the other end and cut it about 1/8" long, glue down and glue the two ends together. The extra gives a good solid contact to the ends.

I use 3M weather-stripping adhesive. In order to hold the seal in place you can use masking tape or painters tape at intervals as required. if you apply the sealant right its generally not needed, can be helpful if you are doing the seal with the lid on the car as that gets awkward...

HTH, good luck!
 
OP
OP
C

CaliStang68

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2012
Messages
302
I appreciate it Dalorzo_f. thanks for the info. Have a Happy New Year!

Rick
 
OP
OP
C

CaliStang68

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2012
Messages
302
Depends on if you want the original style (repros can be hard/stiff and seal poorly0 or a softer alternate.

The seal goes on the trunk lid. I find it easiest to apply with the lid off the car.

If original the "C" shape points with the opening inward. See this site (one of many that posts the same generic pic - http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Rubber/trunk.htm)

Most vendors sell this version.

I found for the fiberglass lid the 69 (IIRC) style seal works better. Not correct, but far softer and provides and easier seal. Its a trapezoidal with 3 hollow "tubes" inside. Nice and soft and squishy...

I bought mine for Tony Branda, not sure who else may sell it. http://www.cobranda.com/trlidwe.html I think it was the 69-70 version I used, they have no pics of the sections, and just don't recall off hand...

Whichever you go with... I find the middle of the seal and glue from the front center of the lid around to the latch. Prefit to be sure its long enough (most have a lot of spare length, so no issue there). When I'm about a foot from the end I lap the two ends over each other, make a mark above the latch at the center, and cut one end square. Glue that in, then run the other end and cut it about 1/8" long, glue down and glue the two ends together. The extra gives a good solid contact to the ends.

I use 3M weather-stripping adhesive. In order to hold the seal in place you can use masking tape or painters tape at intervals as required. if you apply the sealant right its generally not needed, can be helpful if you are doing the seal with the lid on the car as that gets awkward...

HTH, good luck!

Just thought of a question you talked about how the C type shape points with the opening inward when applied, but how about the trapezoidal with 3 hollow "tubes" applied?

Thanks
Rick
 

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Not sure, I forget which way I applied it.... will have to go look! :tongue:

And in poking around trying to find it I did fond reference to trapezoidal trunk weatherstripping being used on fastbacks...pics I saw were similar but somewhat different to what I used.

Also noticed NPD is no selling a "super soft" trunk lid seal. Maybe it would work as well as the old dried one on my GT/CS was the "C" style, not sure if it was original, but was crusty enough to be 46 years old when I took it off!
 

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Just went and looked, installed it wide side up.

I guess my thinking was the taper aligns to the taper of the opening lip a bit better that way....
 
OP
OP
C

CaliStang68

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2012
Messages
302
Thank you dalorzo_f for the info. I ended up ordering one from Tony Branda today. I'm gonna look into the one from NPD just in case.
 
Top