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1968 GT/CS & HCS
2007+ GT/CS
1966-1967 HCS
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1968 Detailing
- Thread starter gazrox
- Start date
Gary,
My HCS was built 7-16-68 and is a C code with a automatic transmission. I had silver paint bands on the rear springs and red and yellow on the coil springs. I have some pictures of these. I have not finished the drive shaft yet but have diped it in Evaporust to remove the rust. Most of the paint bands came off , but I recorded it. I'll try to find it and post it for you. Alot of things change the marks like build date, assembly plant and different options on the car. Too bad you did not find your build sheet. But yo might want to visit that thread of last week to see the colors and options there. Marty
My HCS was built 7-16-68 and is a C code with a automatic transmission. I had silver paint bands on the rear springs and red and yellow on the coil springs. I have some pictures of these. I have not finished the drive shaft yet but have diped it in Evaporust to remove the rust. Most of the paint bands came off , but I recorded it. I'll try to find it and post it for you. Alot of things change the marks like build date, assembly plant and different options on the car. Too bad you did not find your build sheet. But yo might want to visit that thread of last week to see the colors and options there. Marty
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franklinair
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2007
- Messages
- 4,744
When I put new rear springs in my CS I painted them with Cast Blast to try and keep/match the 'natural' finish. No striping.
Marty- I was once gigged (critisized) for installing rear springs with the clamp & bent tab configuration. Justified or not? This was @ an MCA judging in Charlotte, NC.
I also finished the drive shaft 'natural', no striping.
Neil
Marty- I was once gigged (critisized) for installing rear springs with the clamp & bent tab configuration. Justified or not? This was @ an MCA judging in Charlotte, NC.
I also finished the drive shaft 'natural', no striping.
Neil
OP
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gazrox
Well-known member
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- Jul 17, 2007
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- 182
I painted the leaf springs and drive shaft with "cast iron" paint - it looks quite good.
The reason I did the drive shaft was because of the "burn" marks from when it was balanced. I have the paint marks from the drive shaft, unfortunately it is not the original, I believe it came off a 1970 mustang. For some reason my car had one of those two piece drive shafts and I don't like them much, so I swapped it out. What the hell, I'll just go with what was on there, no-one will be any wiser! lol
Gary
The reason I did the drive shaft was because of the "burn" marks from when it was balanced. I have the paint marks from the drive shaft, unfortunately it is not the original, I believe it came off a 1970 mustang. For some reason my car had one of those two piece drive shafts and I don't like them much, so I swapped it out. What the hell, I'll just go with what was on there, no-one will be any wiser! lol
Gary
Painted is the way to go if you will be driving the car. I am doing a concourse trailered restoration with bare metal finishes protected with some advanced oils. That seems to be the direction the MCA is headed. I must admit I really like the look. Marty
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Neil,
It was too bad you were deducted for doing it right! Too many people think when you become a MCA judge you know everything. When a judge thinks they know everything that realy shows how little they know. We all make mistakes, but when I do I try to learn from it. Marty
It was too bad you were deducted for doing it right! Too many people think when you become a MCA judge you know everything. When a judge thinks they know everything that realy shows how little they know. We all make mistakes, but when I do I try to learn from it. Marty
dalorzo_f
Well-known member
+1 on the red/yellow on the fronts, just saw them on my May build C code the other day. Saw some faint marks on the driveshaft and want to jack it up this weekend and see if I can tell what they are...
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gazrox
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2007
- Messages
- 182
I have the 1964 1/2 - 1973 Mustang Detailing Guide (K.A. Helms 1995). It shows coils springs for 1968 mustangs having yellow and orange bands, but every car I have seen has red and yellow bands, including mine. Could be an error in the book, just in case anyone else is using this guide.
I have that book, it seems to have a lot of wrong information in it. Marty
dalorzo_f
Well-known member
From T code to S doubt there was only one color combo...
Northern Pony
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2007
- Messages
- 268
Gary;
I definitely have to see this car next time in your home town, I like the way your doing it. Should be November.
BoB
I definitely have to see this car next time in your home town, I like the way your doing it. Should be November.
BoB
Gary we would need more information before suggesting marking colors
What trans, AC or non AC, GT or non GT,??
Seen most rear springs marked on the short leaf behind the rear end location on later 68 San Jose
Would steer away from the "1964 1/2 - 1973 Mustang Detailing Guide (K.A. Helms 1995)" since its based on later (72-75) references. Would rather use period documents or other cars built around the same time as yours
Would not use a cast colored paint - too light IMHO since they were heat treated - but of course every brand of spray paint differs - there is allot of variation in this stuff
Had more luck (on good non pitted examples) of a light coat of Eastwood Phosphate rattle can followed by a light dry coat of interior Charcoal (adds a little metallic sparkle line originally) then a light dry coat of satin clear to replicate the oiled finish
