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1968 Introduction to my "new" CS (long)

DeadStang

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 29, 2005
Messages
345
Some of you know about this car as I bought it from a Forum member earlier this spring, but I haven't really posted anything about it much until now.

This is an X-Code, sold new in Texas. It's had one repaint about a 1000 years ago in the original color, and is pretty close to being rust-free. The car has spent a lot of time sitting. When it came, it kind of ran, shifted reasonably well, and braked somewhat alarmingly. My one trip into town to the DVM for the VIN inspection/titling resulted in a tow truck ride home.

It had had a gasket kit installed in the carburetor before I bought it; unfortunately, it is not the original. The fuel tank isn't new, but the PO appears to have taken it out and had it coated inside and out, so it is clean. First, I replaced the fuel filter on the carb and installed a second filter between the inner fender and the fuel pump... Still wan't right, so I replaced the fuel pump.

But you know how these things go. I couldn't get the new fuel pump lined up to bold in, so I pulled the radiator and fan so I could turn the engine by hand. While the radiator was out and since it was original, I had it re-cored, which it really needed, anyway. The fan clutch is still good, so I kept that and the shroud is also still in very good shape for it's age, so I just re-installed it with the correct mounting kit. I put a Tefba filter in my top radiator hose to keep the fresh radiator from getting clogged up from the crusty old engine.

While I was waiting, I changed the oil, which was a story in itself trying to get the filter off! Apparently, the filter was a type sold new more than 12-13 years ago, so the seal had plenty of time to dry out and fuse with the adapter. I also somehow managed to get the old battery tray off, of which only about 2/3 remained. I wire brushed the rust in the inner fender apron under the battery tray (this is the only rust on the car that I've noted so far), which is mostly just pitting and some minor perforation, sprayed the area with a coating of Zero Rust, and was able to re-use the welded in nuts to get the new tray installed. The temperature guage didn't work, so I replaced the sender while the carburetor was off. Something I worry about are the original solenoids, so I replaced that as well, and the positive battery cable as it was wallowed out. The negative cable is going to have to wait a bit before it gets replaced!

Finally, I got everything put back together and fired it up--and the problem, of course, was not the fuel pump.

So I spend a day and 4 trips to various auto parts stores getting a loaner Holley 500cfm installed, complete with some duct tape, as a test. And with the Holley, it runs really well--nice and cool--with good oil pressure, no bad noises, and it doesn't even seem to smoke! I was very pleased. I am waiting to get a 1968 Autolite off a guy's 390 car in Canada and I think I'll send that one out to be rebuilt as it is more correct than my current 1971 Autolite, and I don't care to use a Holley--too much trouble trying to adapt the throttle linkage and such (hence the duct tape), and it doesn't look right IMO.

Now that it runs and I'm waiting for the carburetor, I've moved on to the brakes. I replaced the wheel cylinders, shoes, and drums (bummer!) in the rear and they're all buttoned up and waiting to be bled. I started the right front this afternoon. I'm going to do the wheel cylinders in the front and the shoes, but these drums look great and are nice and thick, and the wheel bearings cleaned up and packed nicely. I'm waffling on replacing the soft lines...I'm inclined to do it, but I'll see how easily I am able to loosen the fittings. The lines "look" OK, but it seems silly to do so much brake work and to leave them to chance. Interestingly enough, I noticed tonight that the front fenders have been rolled by some owner desiring of fatter tires sometime in the past! That's OK as it gives me more leeway to also put bigger tires on, which I like.

In between waiting for parts, I still need to service the transmission, install a new fuel gauge sender in the tank, and remove and replace the gear oil in the differential. I also need to decide what I'm going to do about the rubber. The tires are some of the most weather-checked and awful that I've ever seen on a car that actually runs! It came with argent styled steel wheels, good GT caps, and nice trim rings, but I may swap them for a set of original chrome, or I might switch to some aftermarket 15" chrome styled steel wheels--they look pretty good if you don't get too critical. Lastly, I am going to finished the tune-up, with new plugs and wires; the distributor cap, rotor, and points were replaced by the PO before it came.

Anyway, I'm kind of excited about the car, obviously. It's been fun to work on--if you call screaming cuss words randomly "fun," but no tools have been thrown and no (serious) injuries have occurred beyond having a wrench drop on my forehead and giving me a nasty bruise for a few days when doing to transmission cooler lines on the radiator.

Here's the tow truck ride home...

towedccgt.jpg
 

rvrtrash

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,665
Hey, if we weren't twisting wrenches on a regular basis, it wouldn't be fun. There has to be some adventure involved. What's more exciting? A story of what you've done to get the car in shape, or haggling with a salesman to save an extra thousand on an econobox?

Steve
 

calspcl

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2004
Messages
167
Location
Seattle, Wa
and a great color, cars are a little more stubborn when they dont get the attention they need, keep it going!
 
OP
OP
D

DeadStang

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 29, 2005
Messages
345
Alright! On the last wheel and in the home stretch with my brake job... Only #3 bloody knuckles and a wrist wound. Ended up replacing the soft lines up front, which is a very, very good thing since they were in simply horrible condition once off and inspected in good light. I need to get a halogen under there and look over the rear soft line really well, but I'm not really looking forward to replacing that one as it seems always to be the hardest to remove.

This has been very interesting to me. I thought the back brakes were in bad shape with almost leaking wheel cylinders, and no adjustment left. But then I worked on the right front, which had a leaky wheel cylinder--but just barely, and the shoes were only about 1mm thick. This one "felt" like the real problem to me when I drove it, but the left front wheel cylinder was in even WORSE condition and blatantly leaking nasty, rusty brake fluid. The rubber boots of the wheel cylinder had holes and the little posts that go the the inner brake shoes were buried/rusted inside. The inside of the drum and all the hardware was wet as well. What is really remarkable is just how BAD the brakes can be before they fail! I have actually driven this thing, and have moved it around my place several times and the brakes worked as well (or better) as anything else on the car does.

I'm taking bets on how long I get everything back together and buttoned up before the master cylinder goes bad. I'm guessing by spring, I'll fire it up and it'll be bad...that seems to be how my luck goes on these projects. :(

I'm post more as I make more progress...
 

rvrtrash

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,665
Since you've opened up the system, and you know the brake fluid is bad, why not just replace the master cylinder now and flush the whole system? You'll probably save yourself some time and aggravation, not to mention only having to bleed it all once instead of twice. Just a thought.

Steve
 

Mosesatm

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Messages
9,177
And if you install speed bleeders you can bleed the system by yourself. They make the job much easier!
 
OP
OP
D

DeadStang

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 29, 2005
Messages
345
I've been going back and forth with myself on just replacing the M/C now or to wait until it fails. It didn't fade when I drove the car last month, but maybe once there is better pressure/functionality in the entire system, it'll fail quickly? I'm anxious to get it moving again under it's own power as it's time to move from the Costco shelter into my side of the garage for the winter, so I'm pushing to get it off the jack stands as soon as I can. But perhaps I'll just go ahead and order a M/C from NPD. I don't think I've ever replaced one that's not associated with a brake booster...

I take a syringe and a red rubber (urinary) catheter and attach that to the bleeder screws and bleed them myself, as my husband gets impatient with me when I make him help me work on my cars; he's not very impressed with my "projects," and wishes I would stop buying them. It works pretty well--kind of like a Mighty Vac, but a little easier to use, I think.
 
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