Vin Location

[davidathans]

Can somebody please inform me where the location of the Vin # is on the car. I need it because i want to get the Deluxe report on the car. The car was made on March 7, 1968 if it matters.

 

[davidathans]

Never mind it is the same number that is on the inside of the driverside door and is 11 digits

 

[68sunlitgold]

David,
Just remember that many doors are changed because of damage or rust. It is always good to check the other places for VIN #'s:

- Between the dashpad and window on the passenger side.
- Under the driver side fender (where the fender is cut out, the San Jose plant had the stamper lined up [I assume wrong] so the # us under the fender)
- And if the engine is original it is stamped on the back of the block


If all 4 match (the 3 above and the door tag), then you can be assured it is the correct VIN #

As a side note, a 5th VIN # is stamped on the buck tag usually located on the passenger fender, retained by a bolt near the hood hinge, however the San Jose plant did not use buck tags therefore not on a GT/CS.

Doug

 

[68sunlitgold]

Sample of a Bucktag....

Doug

 

[davidathans]

Thank you. What happened was I thought we had the original 289 block but when the cast heads came off it said 302. So I went to look for the Vin and i thought it was up on the dash, but it wasnt there. According to the tag on the inside of the driver door it is a C code 289, so I guess someone changed the shortblock before I got the car. I will check the other locations though to make sure. Thanks again.

 

[68sunlitgold]

David,
Your engine could be original, some 289 near the end of its production used 302 blocks, they just ran out of 289's. Look on the rear top of the block, there is a flat area past where the intake manifold attaches. There may be dirt/greast there, but once you clean that off the VIN will be stamped into the block.

As for your dash VIN tag, sometimes when someone replaces the dash pad, this tag get pused under it instead of between the window and dashpad. You might want to check it out if you need to remove the dashpad.

Good luck
Doug

 

[davidathans]

Thanks again for the info Doug, ya i think the the vin was there before i replaced the dash pad, but now its not. Thats funny about using 302's because they ran out of 289's..So when that happens they still put C in the Vin for engine size? C code is 289 2V.

 

[68sunlitgold]

David,
Yes it was still listed as a "C" code, the 289 and 302 blocks for 68 where almost identical. And the 289 heads, intake manifold and carbarator where used on the 302 block. I guess it could be called a "Y" code (not made for mustangs in 68) which were 302-2bls.

Doug

 

[davidathans]

Hey Doug you seem to know just about everything about these blocks, so let me ask you some questions:

We had the block bored .03 over and stroked to 3.4" stroke for 347 cid, with the original 289 cast iron heads(ported and polished on exhaust side and i believe 1.84"intake 1.55" exhaust valve sizes with 124cc intake runners) and pistons that were broken because of 11.0:1 compression the car made 250RWHP. My question is do you think the heads are the limiting factor? Will i really notice a huge increase in power, when i put on the AFR 185 aluminum heads with 2.02 intake 1.60exhaust with 185cc intake runners, solely from changing these heads, possibly 100hp??
Also do you think that the extra friction and broken pistons were the limiting hp factor? How much was i being robbed? Are those heads actually decent and the reason i just wasnt making that much power was because of the messed up short block?

How much compression can i run on 91 octane fuel with the new aluminum heads? The new shortblock with have the 87-91 roller block 2V main, forged steel crank, rods and pistons.

Do you think a lunati hydraulic roller camshaft with .544 intake lift and .560 exhaust with 232dur @.05intake and 242dur @ .05exhaust is big enough? too big? I want this to be my daily driver/occasional drag car.

What kind of horsepower do you think i'll make with this combo..other components are Edlebrock aluminum RPM performer manifold, 670 cfm holley carb, march aluminum pulleys, MSD pro billet distributor with 6AL box, 8.5 wires, Edlebrock aluminum water pump, aluminum roller rockers 1.6 ratio, K&N. The compression ratio that im being advised is 9.7:1.

Thank you so much for your help

 

[davidathans]

There was one more item i was wondering about...is it safe to go .06 over on the bore of a 289? If not then the block i have is pretty much useless because the pistons scraped up the cylinder wall so it cannot be rehoned at .03 over. Does anyone have any experience with going .06 over on a 289 to share?

 

[Russ]

David,

I would highly recommend you sleeve your block and NOT go over .030" for the bore IF you want to retain your original block. If you bore your engine any more than .030" you run the risk of overheating and all the problems related to high temperatures. You could also find another block that is in better condition. Just a suggestion.

As for the 302 blocks, the 289 and 302 blocks are identical except for the casting numbers stating "302" or "289" located in the valve lifter valley. The difference in these engines is the crankshaft. The crankshaft determines the stroke of the engine, and the stroke was increased on the 302 in 1968. A 289 crank is identified with a "1M" cast into the number one counterweight and a 302 engine has a "2M" cast in the same place. Rods were also different, and the 302 rods have a "C8" casting number.

As for the heads, 289 heads have lower compression than the 1968 "J" code heads. "J" code heads have a completely different combustiuon chamber configuration allowing for the higher compression. Later (1969 and beyond) heads look just like 289 heads. If you are looking for better performance from your 289 of 302, look for the 1968 J cose heads.

Hope this helps,

Russ

 

[rvrtrash]

Couple of things. My car has the VIN on BOTH front inner fenders, left and right. On the 289 block, I bored a 65 Galaxie 289 block I had laying around to .060 for my 69 Fairlane. It has about 2K miles on it and I haven't noticed any overheating or other problems. Believe it or not, the push rods are different length for the 289 and 302, I found out the hard way. Car ran like **** for a while because the valves weren't closing all the way. Just my humble .02 worth.
Steve

 

[davidathans]

Thanks steve and Russ for your info. Steve its good to hear that you dont have any overheating and you went .06 over! If you saw the pictures in my gallery of the broken piston then it is clear that if i want to use that block i will need to overbore to .06 because the way it is is already .03 over and i believe those pistons scraped up the cylinder wall.

On a 68 mustang, where the vin is on the block, do i need to have the block pulled out of the car to see the vin #???
I am having trouble spotting the vin while the block is in the engine compartment bolted up to the tranny with the heads off.

 

[rvrtrash]

You should be able to see the VIN on the block while it's in the car. I'm using a public library computer, but when I get mine fixed, I'll take a picture of the location and email it to you. One other thing, my engine was bone stock except for using a 351W cam. Running high comp./perf. will raise your operating temp. Something to consider as well.
Steve

 

[Kurt]

Even though the block is a 302 it could still be a 289, Ford used 302 blocks butt installed 289 crankshafts & connecting rods. ( 289 & 302 blocks are diamensionally the same)