lucky1968
Member
Im debating on what to do for front suspension?
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
COMMUNITY
1968 GT/CS & HCS
2007+ GT/CS
1966-1967 HCS
-
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1968 Is anyone here running a MustangII front suspansion on their CS?
- Thread starter lucky1968
- Start date
lucky1968
Member
Looking into different set ups just want it to handle good
rvrtrash
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I believe you'd have to remove the shock towers, replace with a filler panel and then reinforce the inner fender to cowl area to handle the load/stress and probably weld in frame connectors to install a Mustang II front suspension. I would think a coil over shock conversion would be significantly cheaper and easier, and improve the handling a comparable amount, if you're sticking with a "standard" engine. You'd also be able to return it to stock someday, if you so choose. I would think the only reason you'd go with the Mustang II front end, and modify the engine bay, is if you're going with a modular motor and need the extra room, in which case I'd suggest finding a "plain Jane, run of the mill" '68 coupe project car and doing it to that one, so you don't devalue a unique and rare CS. Just my opinion.
Steve
Steve
Here's a good website on Mustang suspension and handling upgrades...
http://www.dazecars.com/
And a good video from West Coast Classic Cougar on some other upgrades...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgxL4xnTTZ4
http://www.dazecars.com/
And a good video from West Coast Classic Cougar on some other upgrades...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgxL4xnTTZ4
robert campbell
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Not sure what you mean by handle good? A tight Mustang suspension can handle very well. Power racks can be a bit a bit to sensitive for the old cars in my opinion. A Borgeson conversion with a 3 turn lock to lock steering box is very nice an provides a sporty feel with the 620 pound 1 inch lower coil springs and a large sway bar. Install improved stock style upper and lower control arms. A rear sway bar can help.
I agree with Steve. If you go Mustang II you need to purchase one that puts the weight back onto the firewall. This means subframe connectors and a tube brace up to a fixture on the firewall.
There are a lot of setups that allow for the installation of coil over shocks and improved upper and lower control arms. These allow for trimming and boxing of the shock towers to obtain more room. And puts the weight on the firewall and the frame as designed.
But if you are doing a small block for power, you do not really need any extra room.
Do you plan on auto crossing? If not you can work with improved stock stuff
But if you tons of money go for it.
Rob
robert campbell
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Got money and want a rack and pinion. This uses the shock towers and supports the weight on the firewall.
http://www.fatmanfabrications.co/products/1967-1973-ford-mustang-strut-ifs-conversion-kit/
Below is very nice. Uses stock steering box or a Borgeson conversion. Puts weight on the firewall.
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/fcoc-fd.html
Again if you are not shoving a Coyote, Mod Motor, or 460 on it.
http://www.fatmanfabrications.co/products/1967-1973-ford-mustang-strut-ifs-conversion-kit/
Below is very nice. Uses stock steering box or a Borgeson conversion. Puts weight on the firewall.
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/fcoc-fd.html
Again if you are not shoving a Coyote, Mod Motor, or 460 on it.
lucky1968
Member
Which one of the 2 kits would you guys recommend?
robert campbell
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Lucky,
I have stock steering with no power on both my cars. So the first question is do you want power assisted steering. In my opinion the 3 turn lock to lock of stock power assisted steering is much more sporty than the 5 or 4 turn lock to lock of standard non-power steering. someday I may convert to power, but do no like the horse power loss or hoses, rams, control valves. But a finely tuned stock power steering is a nice feel in my opinion.
Next is exhaust thoughts. Long tube headers play havoc with power steering hose routing. The long tube headers land right in the middle of the control valve. This leads to routing headaches. I have even started a small fire in my header area due to a broken and misting spray from the high pressure hose. That was it for me!!
Also most headers require you to drop the end of the ram to get under the collector. Low clearance problems and added stress to the torque box due to increased leverage by the ram against it.
The next part in cost and the thought of a power assisted Rack and Pinion set up. The Fatman kit is awesome if you absolutely want a rack. Early conversions suffered from increased turning radius and a "darty" slash over sensitive feel. They newer versions are much better.
Soooo.... Why do I tell you all this stuff-o-la??
1. Stock exhaust = Stock power system. Stock exhaust means a mild engine build.
2. Total Control is cheaper when you add in all the parts. It uses the firewall as Ford intended. It will work with standard non-power or standard power steering. The standard power steering leaves you with stock exhaust manifolds, shorty headers, or Hipo manifolds. The shorty and even the Hipo manifolds require some creative hose routing is some cases. Now the Borgeson conversion removes the control valve and ram, and removes the troublesome lower hose routing that moves back and forth with the steering. It will fit right into the TC conversion.
Basically TC and stock standard or Borgeson power steering conversion will improve your handling over stock and allow the use of any long tube header.
3. Fatman. Most expensive and must go to a rack. Either a power or standard rack. Allows for any long tube header. In my opinion if you had to equal cars on a road track, the rack verses the standard steering would be very hard to discern in actual time improvement.
The first consideration is exhaust for you. If you are going for big power then you need long tube headers and all that goes with that. Here is a link to the best fitting small block headers on the market in my opinion. I have them on both my cars. They tuck up so tight they are just as high as small diameter stock exhaust. I have the #2 for stock exhaust port location configuration. They work great with most high performance heads on the market.
http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/Mustang1.htm
Here is a picture under my car. Notice the relationship ship to the torque box frame. By the way, that is 3 inch exhaust!
I have stock steering with no power on both my cars. So the first question is do you want power assisted steering. In my opinion the 3 turn lock to lock of stock power assisted steering is much more sporty than the 5 or 4 turn lock to lock of standard non-power steering. someday I may convert to power, but do no like the horse power loss or hoses, rams, control valves. But a finely tuned stock power steering is a nice feel in my opinion.
Next is exhaust thoughts. Long tube headers play havoc with power steering hose routing. The long tube headers land right in the middle of the control valve. This leads to routing headaches. I have even started a small fire in my header area due to a broken and misting spray from the high pressure hose. That was it for me!!
Also most headers require you to drop the end of the ram to get under the collector. Low clearance problems and added stress to the torque box due to increased leverage by the ram against it.
The next part in cost and the thought of a power assisted Rack and Pinion set up. The Fatman kit is awesome if you absolutely want a rack. Early conversions suffered from increased turning radius and a "darty" slash over sensitive feel. They newer versions are much better.
Soooo.... Why do I tell you all this stuff-o-la??
1. Stock exhaust = Stock power system. Stock exhaust means a mild engine build.
2. Total Control is cheaper when you add in all the parts. It uses the firewall as Ford intended. It will work with standard non-power or standard power steering. The standard power steering leaves you with stock exhaust manifolds, shorty headers, or Hipo manifolds. The shorty and even the Hipo manifolds require some creative hose routing is some cases. Now the Borgeson conversion removes the control valve and ram, and removes the troublesome lower hose routing that moves back and forth with the steering. It will fit right into the TC conversion.
Basically TC and stock standard or Borgeson power steering conversion will improve your handling over stock and allow the use of any long tube header.
3. Fatman. Most expensive and must go to a rack. Either a power or standard rack. Allows for any long tube header. In my opinion if you had to equal cars on a road track, the rack verses the standard steering would be very hard to discern in actual time improvement.
The first consideration is exhaust for you. If you are going for big power then you need long tube headers and all that goes with that. Here is a link to the best fitting small block headers on the market in my opinion. I have them on both my cars. They tuck up so tight they are just as high as small diameter stock exhaust. I have the #2 for stock exhaust port location configuration. They work great with most high performance heads on the market.
http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/Mustang1.htm
Here is a picture under my car. Notice the relationship ship to the torque box frame. By the way, that is 3 inch exhaust!
lucky1968
Member
Robert Thanks for all your advise, yes I belive im going to be running long tube headers Im liking the TC kit with a Borgeson conversion. Do you know anyone with that setup and are they happy with it?
robert campbell
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I have converted one 1968 Mustang, one 1965 Mustang, and a 1966 Fairlane to Borgeson PS. It is very precise and with its 3 turns lock to lock it feels much more sporty than my cars manual steering. Especially carving corners in your favorite canyon!
I have been with one 1967 Fastback with the TC conversion and manual steering. This car was destined to be road raced. The owner loved the easy adjustability for suspension changes. Quality was second to none. He used the TC conversion with an Export Brace and Monte Carlo bar.
The TC is great stuff and can be added at anytime. So you could do the Borgeson conversion and then upgrade to the TC if you feel you need more precision. But you would lose the cost of any new stock suspension you purchase. I would assume you are rebuilding all the components. And if you went stock I would recommend 620 springs that lower the front end one inch.
So you would double buy if you decide you want more. In that case you may just do the TC up front and have what you want. Then you can set any ride height and adjust the spring rate.
Check out my removable export brace!! Very nice stuff when you work in the engine compartment!!
Rob
I have been with one 1967 Fastback with the TC conversion and manual steering. This car was destined to be road raced. The owner loved the easy adjustability for suspension changes. Quality was second to none. He used the TC conversion with an Export Brace and Monte Carlo bar.
The TC is great stuff and can be added at anytime. So you could do the Borgeson conversion and then upgrade to the TC if you feel you need more precision. But you would lose the cost of any new stock suspension you purchase. I would assume you are rebuilding all the components. And if you went stock I would recommend 620 springs that lower the front end one inch.
So you would double buy if you decide you want more. In that case you may just do the TC up front and have what you want. Then you can set any ride height and adjust the spring rate.
Check out my removable export brace!! Very nice stuff when you work in the engine compartment!!
Rob
Last edited:
lucky1968
Member
TC it is!!!
robert campbell
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Lucky,
While you are up on the rotisserie it is great time for subframe enhancements. I am not a road course or autocross guy, so I went with Maier Racing 4 point connectors coupled with CalTrac traction bars. Total Control has some nice side to side systems, but the only connect at two points from the rear. The Maier connector grabs two points on the torque box and two points back aft with one far up into the chassis arch going over the axel. You have to move you gas line, and it may be time to consider a !/2 feed line forward to ensure you do not starve your big motor for gas. I even have a source for a fuel sending unit with 1/2 connections and a return fitting if you go to fuel injection that requires a return line.
I installed the sub frame connectors myself. Here are some pics.
While you are up on the rotisserie it is great time for subframe enhancements. I am not a road course or autocross guy, so I went with Maier Racing 4 point connectors coupled with CalTrac traction bars. Total Control has some nice side to side systems, but the only connect at two points from the rear. The Maier connector grabs two points on the torque box and two points back aft with one far up into the chassis arch going over the axel. You have to move you gas line, and it may be time to consider a !/2 feed line forward to ensure you do not starve your big motor for gas. I even have a source for a fuel sending unit with 1/2 connections and a return fitting if you go to fuel injection that requires a return line.
I installed the sub frame connectors myself. Here are some pics.
robert campbell
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I can spend other peoples money at the speed of light!!! Ask Arlie and Steve!!!
By the way??? Manual or auto tranny???
Rob
By the way??? Manual or auto tranny???
Rob
lucky1968
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lucky1968
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I really like those sub frame connectors where can I order them?
robert campbell
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Mustangs Plus.
https://www.mustangsplus.com/1965-1970-Mustang-Cpe-Fbk-Subframe-Connector-By-Mike-Maier.html
You should peruse their website. They have lots of original stuff, but they specialize in modified stuff.
https://www.mustangsplus.com/1965-1970-Mustang-Cpe-Fbk-Subframe-Connector-By-Mike-Maier.html
You should peruse their website. They have lots of original stuff, but they specialize in modified stuff.
robert campbell
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lucky1968
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