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You can offer to do a real wood one if they want ! :wink:

I did not try, but looked at it. I came the to conclusoin that unless you used a thick layer of "filler" first I think it would be very diffucult, and my not stick well to the "bumps". I just checked the 5 I have, all the standard ones (camera case) are a -A or -C engineering suffix. The...

That is a great price for a OEM 67-68 in good shape... nice score!

" the front tranny seal before mating it to the engine " No clue what that is. The two came apart, there is the main "sandwich plate", that goes between the trans and block, and I saw no other "seal". As noted, the converter was not removed, the two were just split to paint the engine. No...

Too easy... happy to help. Let us know how it works out!

Not sure if it is just the repros or if OEM had the same problem. The rubber/plastic coating splitting and breaking off.. Had a can of Plasti-Dip spray (is that an Oxymoron?) and took the one off the GTCS, stripped it, blasted it, then gave it about 5 coats of Plasti-spray to get a good...

Cool, the trans is already on a dolley... so maybe end of next week. The converter never came out, so should be ok. Anyone know what the proper nut is to fix the flywheel to the converter? I found all the attaching hardware but those 4 items. From the marks on the flywheel looks like the...

289/C4 Engine is on a stand and having never done this before (only toploaders, do the engine first and then the trans with engine in the car) wondering the best way to mate the two, as I want to install them as an assembly. Looks like you need to hang the engine on a hoist, attach the...

Rechecked the AMK Guide, misread the wrong line, it is a 1/2". And yes, the standard bumper was just relocated, the washer added to cover the larger hole in the fender than there would have been for the stock location on the raditaor support.

The part numbers are on a pic in the GTCS book, and I have a separate copy of the same Ford sketch from somewhere... "the reference library"! The details are from the AMK Guide to Ford Fasteners (a great reference and highly recommended for the restorer, in combination with the FAM's) My car...

These are great plug-and-play relays for OEM setups. No cutting and can be installed pretty much completely hidden. If the relay fails, just unplug it and plug the OEM connection back in... http://rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-hrk-all

Ref I have calls out 33922-S2 - Hex Nut - Jam (half height of regular Hex) 5/16-18 .180/.195 thk, 7/16" hex S2 = Phosphate and oil Under that 44724 - Flat Washer -Standard - 5/16" .365/.385" ID, .875" OD, .064/.104 thk, no finish called out...

Buy the Alloy Metal (or is it Metal Alloy?) ones like Pete sells, Almost identical to OEM, all the right plugs, clips for attaching (well, the taillight one for the GTCS I bought was way out on those, but fit well after moving them), new modern rated wiring, and looks "right". And not brittle...

The link on the "thin stuff" note it sells in 4"x8" patches... not sure how many per pack.\ Here's the perfect solution... http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-3M-300LSE-Heavy-Duty-Durable-Adhesive-Double-Sided-Tape-Super-Strong-/271415077455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f31996a4f

On the dash pad I am only familair with the Dashes Direct, not sure if there are others. The fit is average and the material and grain are so far off I'm unsure what blind person designed them. (no offense to the sight imparied, just a comment on how off they are... actually a blind person...

Just found this, really thin, 0.0067"/0.17mm http://www.can-dotape.com/tech-data-9495.php http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-300LSE-Double-Sided-SUPER-STICKY-HEAVY-DUTY-SHEET-OF-ADHESIVE-TAPE-/230983102051?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c7aa6e63

Not sure about tape, 3M makes a 1/32" thickness. But would think a thin smear of silicone or other similar goop would work. Would not go liquid nails type stuff, and think weatherstrip adhesive would be difficult as IME experience it doesn't go on real smooth... Easy and shuld work, if not...

Learn something new everyday..

Thought they were all done by AO Smith in Ionia. '67 had quality/production issues so that's one of the reasons Shelby moved produdtion to Michigan from LA in '68, closer to the source... I vote BS.

Have you checked the price of good chrome work lately? Not sure about where you are, but a bumper here runs $500-600, the vent frame $300-400... each...