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+1 on Marty's suggestion. Only one place the lines can leak, from the flare to the seat. Cycle them a few times and usually it takes care of it.... if they do not seal pull the block and inspect the seats. A light spin of scotch brite (soft) can clean them up a bit. If dinged/damaged they...

Thanks, I think shipping to Oz would be pricey...I have a C8 locally just checking on if its right...

Use the NPD "best" one... shop had no issues with it.

Hmm... so no one can post a result sheet from a past event? Or do you not get to keep the sheets after? Was hoping to compare them to local, as to pay to join the US MCA to get a couple pieces of paper is just not worth it... And how do judges check things that are not on the rules? Can I...

Curious what they currently contain. Anyone got a recent one they can scan and send, or post here?

The suffix is likely a date/mold identifier. Would guess it is similar to different cast dates in many parts, no real difference, just a QA/QC marker to identify lots if a quality issue comes up..

Anyone got a known OEM? April build if it makes a difference. Have seen reference to a C6 and a C8 casting number as correct.... anyone know which one is???

Have seen posts where the flasher can has to be replaced with a different one as the load from the LED's is different and does not trigger the OEM can. Maybe the kits have inbuilt resistance, the ones I recall were related to just buying individual bulbs and swapping them out for LED's...

If it weren't for PO's and "creative" fixes back in the day this restoration stuff would just be too easy! :wink: Looks like they used the "get a bigger" wire theory....

And you have 3 different molds. I know I have some like the bottom, will dig up the few I have and compare. Interesting the middle and lower have the same engineering revision (AW) yet are marked different... As these were not just used on Mustangs (think they were used on Cougars, Fairlanes...

Hard to say, projects always being less than compete cars even if all the same parts are there. Unfortunately if you have to sell, and can not tidy it up, the price will be less as a sale under duress. Does the engine run? Or do it and the tans need to be redone? As noted, what is the...

Carb spacer to cover. Can anyone confirm the look? Have one with a green stripe and "AC" in letters maybe ~1/4" tall spaced along the length.... OEM? Or would it have been painted blue on the originals, know the S codes were but not sure about the small blocks....

Neil, is that UCA just bare, bare w/clear, CastBlast, or a similar "natural" paint?

More shots of engine bay, grille, undercarriage, trunk. Use better light as the glare detracts from the car, take some time taking clear and well composed pics. Give a complete view of the car, warts and all. As you are asking a premium price disclose any issues with rust or damage... would...

Thanks! :smile:

And front drums! Love it, I'm sticking with mine too.... freaks out all my friends and especially the young'uns who have never seen 'em on a car before!!!

Thanks! :smile:

Yeah, may bite the bullet and redo it... this was just too far gone to "clean-up"...

Link to the ad?

Engine is coming back together, bodywork is pretty much done and its getting primer next week... Engine is repainted, manifolds blasted and hit with Cast Blast as they were just too grotty to clean. Some parts are just cleaned as I am trying to go too far overboard with the "repaint"...