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289... so most likely C code, 2bbl, c4.... what other options? Without more info hard to say, but assuming the above I'd suggest $15-20k depending... Sounds like a high #3 car, but just a guess. If a real #2, what most would call a "show car", maybe a few k more... See here...

Unless you are really worried about "correct, an option is to just ditch the spacer. As you seem to be buying a repro H-pipe.... go to a muffler shop, ask for an off cut of the right size (usually 2" IIRC) pipe. Cut your H pipe weld in the new part, done. Or find one that will cut/weld for...

OK, bags and bags of old parts, can't find the screws (6 I think) for the hood latch retainers that go where the original hood bumpers fit on regular Mustangs. Part number and AMK reference (if avialable)? I know they are a slightly smaller version of the style of screw used for the splash...

a. You left a wrench/nut/thing on top of (or in) the engine and it was vibrating with a specific harmonic... b. some electromechanical item "buzzing" due to a loose wire...

Neighbors kid with a video game that oddly coincided with your running the engine... :wink:

All my 4 68's have them... 2 Dec build San Jose S code, April 29 build GTCS and a May Dearborn X code...

May have given you a bum steer. I just checked one of the recent kits I bought, it just has J clips... not the "S" type.... :embarass:

I think AMK sells 'em in their dash bezel install kit... mine is at the shop and no easy access to verify right now... I might have a few spares lying around, how many do you need?

Branda notes Legendary as the manufacturer of some of the fiberglass I bought. They sell 2 or 3 variations, depending on part. Think Pete had a deal with Alloy Metal (or is it Metal Alloy?) to make up the rear harness (down the side of the car, not right at the taillights, but IIRC it was a...

Mike, thanks heaps... PM sent. Did not think to look on T-bird sites, which in hindsight is the obvious call! :tongue:

How do they vary from the NPD? NPD's are the "typical" 3M product, I would think the same as Phoenix. Are the graphics "better" from Phoenix?

Anyone know a source for the 8 fillister head screws that fix the taillight buckets to the tail panel? Can't see them on AMK, no local shops have anything similar...

On the Branda fiberglass the end caps ones I bought were so far off I would have had to cut the studs and relocate. Or enlarge the mounting hole by a lot. I was going to use them on a EXP500, but ended up buying OEM trunk lid and end caps, as the fit was so poor. The fit of the OEM was...

More (slow) progress.... Engine bay almost ready to drop in the engine. Front suspension in place, needs torqueing and a few adjustments. Front and rear glass in and trims on. Fuel tank in, need to clean underside before installing new lines (did not repaint underneath, fairly clean...

Installed it today. Decided to punch a few new holes and use the valence screws. They sit about halfway between where the ones in the part were and the edge. It is a NPD "lumpy" one, so closer to the macerated OEM than the flat sheet repros. Not "correct" but it fits pretty good and I did...

Answer is to the left, click the How to Identify link... http://californiaspecial.com/1968-GTCS-identification.htm Don't think they were reflective from the factory, but don't have my refs handy (at the shop with the car). Most major Mustang parts houses will sell them...

Had heard of using caustic soda (lye) solutions to strip anodized surfaces and paint from plastic (instrument bezels, etc). Worked well. Decided to give it a try on some other parts. I found a nice strong solution cleans up the lamp covers really well. Old, typically white-ish, parking...

+1 on the 8" and Trutrac. Unless you are building mega-Hp and planning to flog it that will hold up a long time. As for rear discs, no real value other than bragging rights, for the most part. If you are determined to go 9 inch, I believe they on some 67-71 Fairlanes, Comets... and I think...

NPD show a 2140-5 and 2140-5R (rebuilt) for 68 w/front drums. The caps are different. -5 has two low round bumps in the cap, http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/master_cylinder_assy-103671-1.html the -5R shows taller sloped bumps on the cap...

Ok, here's a crude and quick sketch. Left side is section, right side is top view. Example is windscreen. You've jammed the tip, cut very small, 1/8" diameter max, into the gap between the body and seal. Almost to the base. About 30-45 degrees of angle from perpendicular, you want the...