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Orange is not required here anymore, at least in Queensland. OEM red's are accepted.

Cool... I'll give it to my "paint guy"!!! Thanks!

Thanks Mike, sounds like you may have what I need....

What do you need? I have "some" skills and many of my co-workers have more than me...

NOT the PPG/Ditzler color number - Ford M3067 Ditzler/PPG 43644, but the actual mix PPG would use to make the color. Base, tint, etc. Locally I can get the '67 Dark Moss Green, similar color, but my shop has been told by PPG here the Highland Green is only available in some new water-based...

I've lightly hammered and blocked with wood to straighten a few tweaked ones with no heating. The metal appears like pot metal, and if so real soft and low temp, think brazing or anything like TIG would blow it away in an instant. The bars are so small it would be real hard, but there is a...

Thanks! :thumb: Not looking such a snob with her "nose in the air" anymore! :wink:

All sorts of posts out there, both pro-and-anti rear sway bars on older Stangs... VMF, FE Forum, Stangfix, etc... they seem to run 50/50 as far as I've seen...

Yep, the 105503 puts it too early as a GT/CS, first prototype/hand built VIN's (I believe) were in the 130xxx range and line production with 141xxx.

Debated a rear sway bar but have seen a lot of negative comments/results. As its a C code street car with drums just looking to reduce the front bodyroll a bit, as it has only the stock braces, no export brace or MC bar...

Yep, sure are! :wink: But it is actually cheaper to buy in the US and air freight, even huge boxes (like dual exhaust for the big block 68's) , as vendors here charge outrageous prices. I just needed some LCA's, NPD part $50, here $100 each... same stuff. Had a vendor here quote my $95 for a...

Lowered the front a good 1 - 1 1/2" like the look. The new springs and Bilstein's make a very noticeable difference in handling and ride... Removed the incorrect stock 68 grille too.

+1 on drums being OK for most applications. Have OEM manual on my GT/CS and while not "great" are more than adequated for general nice-weather around town driving. Look well ahead, drive a little slower, brake a little sooner... no problems...

Put the 205/70/R14's on a while ago, as noted in a prior post. Took a few hours today and removed the Monroe shocks, added Bilstein street valved shocks, and new front coils. I think the OEM ones were overdue... but had the yellow/red paint on them... which was kinda cool... (PO put the clip...

3 stud Midland? All mine have 4...??? All I can say is I removed factory drums/no power on my 68 S code (got scary in the Oakland hills with drums) and bolted in a Midland power booster and power pedal without having to do anything to the hanger. May be a different part with a few nuts...

and where's this vidio that is referenced...??

??? On my '68 it is the same, just mount to a different spot on the hanger that's already got the hole for the two pedals... converted my S code convertible to factory style discs and no need to swap the mount, just the pedal...

Ok, this is weird. Somehow the Registry book has me as the owner of the car. Here it is in the prior owners name... I never sent Paul anything, and thought I registered it here when i bought it, which is how it got in the book....but the data in the on-line registry here is against the PO in...

No expert, but there are differences in viscosity/content for specific applications. As an example Ford does not recommend Type F for Mercon-era cars. Type FA is a replacement for Type F, very similar. Have seen some posts/info concening premature wear and slipping in older transmissions...

Nice app!