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It runs. Apparently, the problem was the fuel pump. Can anyone tell if this is an original fuel pump?

This is a little odd. The car has been repainted (poorly) a couple years ago. I wonder why they are using old photos. Here is the original ad. http://californiaspecial.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12539

https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/d/1968-ford-mustang-gt-cs/6608041477.html

This car was advertised by Daniel Schmitt, in Saint Louis, a year or so ago. It apparently went from one high-priced dealer to another high-priced dealer. https://www.schmitt.com/inventory/ds-1968-ford-mustang-gtcs-california-special-2/ What's with the saddle seats and the green doors, and the...

...and the wet bar, fridge, radiant heat in the floor, recliner, TV, stereo system, hot tub, etc.? I sure wish I had room at my place for that large of the shop/garage. It may be time to follow Steve's lead and purchase 20 acres in the wilderness!!

Traveling for work again. I’ll work on it this weekend.

The yellow wire is the main feed to the switch. If you lose it you lose all power to everything.

Some early GT/CSs may be converted GNSs. This may be one of those cars.

Lowered to $6,000. https://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/d/1968-california-special/6607862758.html

Dave, The car is not listed as a GT/CS on the Marti report but it may actually be an early one. Would you be willing to check it out to see if maybe it's real? Here are some photos from the seller. As you can see the entire front end is wrong with no fog light brackets, small twist lock holes...

The car sat overnight and wouldn't start this morning until I primed it. I since adjusted the choke to close the butterfly a little more (maybe the gas is just evaporating) and purchased a new fuel pump.

Today I ran a 12V wire to the coil and the car would not start. I then dumped a little gas in the carb and it started right up. Once the car starts it will start every time, unless it sits for a long time, then no amount of pumping the throttle will get it to start. The car runs well when...

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Marti Report

Most of us old farts don't have Firefox.

I’m not sold on it yet. The others may want to chime in. A faulty coil can create the same issue, as can vapor lock.

The switch doesn't need to come out. There are two prongs on the connector that need to be pressed to remove the connector. One of the prongs is visible on the photo of the connector, there's another one on the other side. All in all I think it's easier to remove the switch to gain extra...

Here you go. https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-ignition-switch-wiring-pigtail-1968-1969/p/HW3125/ Installing it is loads of fun!!!