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Almost Done - But Need to Stop Her

case12

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 8, 2004
Messages
1,450
Location
Crystal Lake, IL
OK, car is still at the shop but almost done - the 347 stroker is in, the dual-exhaust and JBA shorties are hooked up. edlebrock intake and carb are set. the 2200 stall converter, and shift kit, and trans cooler are installed, and the rear end has been changed to 3.2 gears. The brushed aluminum COBRA aircleaner and valve covers are on. everything is painted in the engine compartment. She is beautiful and She is powerful.

Problem - the original 4 wheel manual drum brakes are scarry to stop this much power.

So, should I:

1. Stay with the drums and take my chances
2. Stay with the drums and add power booster (attractive option)
3. Change to disc on the front (i have this on my '66 with 351W and works well)
4. Change to discs on the front and add power booster

I am almost out of project money:cry: , so I need to stay conservative on price. Which option should I take, and if so, any suggestions on kit?

Thanks, Casey
 

jaystang

Active member
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
42
I'm planning on going w/ a non-power front disc brake conversion from these guys...

http://discbrakeswap.com/
(very reasonably priced)

So far i've heard good things about them on other forums. Has anyone used them before?

~Jamie
 

Mustanger

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Joined
Mar 17, 2005
Messages
1,974
Location
So Cal
You may want to make sure you research all brake conv kits carefully, many are cheaper because they are not 100% complete ... this may or may not be an important factor for some people, but if you want to minimize your CS's down-time, then get a kit that's as complete (and simpler to install) as possible ... since you're only upgrading to front discs and not power, then you maybe okay with the kit you mentioned ... good luck :thumb:
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,744
I'm leaning towards the power booster, keeping the 4 drums. Seems that's the less costly. NPD has the unit.
Neil
 
OP
OP
case12

case12

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 8, 2004
Messages
1,450
Location
Crystal Lake, IL
I'm leaning towards the power booster, keeping the 4 drums. Seems that's the less costly. NPD has the unit.
Neil

Have other people used this option - does it make a good difference in stopping a high power car (remember, I just drive around shows and do burn outs :grin: )?

My old master cylinder (manual) is dirty and could use replacement anyway, given I have painted or changed out just about everything else. Casey
 

jaystang

Active member
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
42
You may want to make sure you research all brake conv kits carefully, many are cheaper because they are not 100% complete ... this may or may not be an important factor for some people, but if you want to minimize your CS's down-time, then get a kit that's as complete (and simpler to install) as possible ... since you're only upgrading to front discs and not power, then you maybe okay with the kit you mentioned ... good luck :thumb:


Thanks for the advice. From what I've read so far it seems to be a pretty complete kit. I've talked w/ the owner of the company a couple times asking questions as well and he was quite informative. I will be sure to do more research before I purchase though.
 

carezcs

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
93
I've been told by a club member who is restoring a CS that these ceramic shoes give you increased stopping power. He put them on his car so he can compete in concours judging and appear stock. They're not cheap but less than a conversion. http://www.praisedynobrake.com/bib.htm
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
Casey,
I am with Neil. I would add the 68 power booster to your car. This upgrade in itself would give you a great feel and is a step towards a 68 disc conversion after you absorb the enormous financial hit you just took. By the way, what a great upgrade you did!!

The drums will work great for one panic stop in an emergency. In my mind not much worse than a disc. Now if you ride them down a long-long incline and then go for a panic, they will fade. You will be amazed by the increase in stopping power vice pedal effort it will provide. You will need some lines to perform the conversion. Either stock ones or most part stores carry already built lines that bend with your thumbs and do not collapse. I used them on my 57 Wagon.

I just rebuilt the 4 piston calipers on my 67. Same as your 66 car. They are so much more complicated than the 68 calipers. I would finish your disc conversion later with 68 setup. I have the 68 version on my GT/CS and they are way better than the 67, but maybe a bit less squeeze for competition. Jury is out on that one!!

One other thing to try is talk to some brake guys about replacement parts. It used to be that the cheaper drum brake shoes were “softer” and wore out quicker. But at the same time they provided much better grip on the drum that the newer metallic ones. So a softer shoe will help until you do the disc conversion. Talk to a local brake guy. Get a solid opinion of light feel vice brake fade. The softer ones may fade due to heat retention. Might be a trade off.

Certainly a disc brake is superior, but drum brakes stopped many a car before the discs came out. I have driven cars with disc brakes and no power booster. They have a very heavy feel. Even heavier than a manual drum brake. Be prepared for a very heavy feel if you do not get a power booster.

Rob
 

nfrntau

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Joined
Aug 15, 2004
Messages
1,020
Location
Rosharon, Texas
Casey,
I bought the MPB conversion for my car and it was very user friendly to install. It came with the power booster and EVERYTHING I needed to do the job. The only thing I had to buy extra was fluid and a couple of washers. I also spent a couple extra bucks and bought some grade 8 hardware to use instead of the standard grade that came with the kit. (I will add that the kit comes with both grades depending on use)
I can't comment on the difference between disc and drum because I have never driven my car and it still doesn't run. (It does stop) Shelby used the discs for his racing program because they worked better. No car comes available with drum front brakes today because the discs are superior. I chose to go with the conversion because I plan on driving the car and want better stopping ability. I shortened the front end of a 67 Mustang 1 foot with drums on it......different story.
My view is with the package you have put together, (which by the way is very very cool) it is a matter of comfort knowing you can stop that beast as best as is possible with the knowledge that it will stop the same as it did "last time", not worrying if you are going to fade at the wrong moment. Caught in the rain or whatever.
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,744
My first preference would be, of course, to install a '68 PB system (front discs) if I had a donor car or parts. But if that's not an option, the NPD PB booster offers the best cost-to-performance ratio (IMHO). The other aftermarket systems seem too pricey for any performance difference, if indeed there is any significant improvement. If you're not going to drive the car in a road course or something like that, stick with the standard brake shoe linings. Sure they would fade with excessive application & heat buildup, but is that the type of driving you will be doing? The "asbestos" type linings are a harder material that withstand heat buildup and last longer due to their hardness (consequently they don't grab as well as the standard linings).
Neil Hoppe

P.S.
Did I mention that as a youngster I worked for my dad, doing brake jobs 6 days a week? I've seen all types of systems from economy cars to racers. Stick with the standard drums, and just add a booster.
Neil
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
Neil,
Unless you are road racing..... You said it perfectly!! Did not know your background in brakes!! Stock stuff is all you need!! Boost it and disc it later!!

Rob
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,744
Rob-
Prior to my airline years, - I was raised in a garage! My dad owned an auto repair business since the 1920's He also built & owned sprint cars from the 1940's (after the war) into the 50's. Did his own machine work building engines as well. A couple Indy drivers used to drive for him also. His modified 4 cyl engines would give Offenhausers all they could handle. One year he won the AAA (now USAC) championship with his car. Its in a museum in Williams Grove, PA.
I'm glad to help anyone as best I can.
Neil
 

wally05

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 15, 2007
Messages
198
Location
Indiana
I'm going to keep the manual brakes and just upgrade to front discs. With the traffic I drive in, the fade gets awful after a few lights. I almost rolled through one! MPB and disc brake swap both have kits that you can keep the stock wheels... with disc brake swap, though, you need to swap out more parts...
 

rvrtrash

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,652
Don't quote me on this till I have more time to refresh my memory, but if you're going to switch to disc brakes, I think the '70 and up Mustangs will fit and they have a larger diameter spindle for added strength. The Granada I think also fits and has the larger spindle also.

Steve
 
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