1968 Correct power steering pump?

[TexAg]

My p/s pump has been leaking and I'm finally tired of it. I'm trying to decide the best course of action. It appears that a rebuild seal kit is available for fairly cheap, and it doesn't look too difficult.

Or, a new(rebuilt) pump is available without the can.

Or, a new(rebuilt) complete assembly is available with the can.

First, has anyone rebuilt one with the seal kit? Was it successful?

Has anyone bought the rebuilt pump and then installed in their existing can?

Next, my pump is blue, but all of the complete ones seem to be black. What is the correct color for the p/s pump?

Last, there appear to be quite a few different complete assemblies out there. How can I be sure that I'm getting the right one for my car? Car is 302 with AC, if that matters?

Any help would be appreciated. I'd rather only pull this thing off once.

Love you guys!

 

[Ruppstang]

I have not used the rebuilt pump with out the can but I do not think it is difficult. The problem with the remans with can is the can nipple was different shapes for different applications. I believe that you should have one that goes rearward and slightly downward not the 90 degree upward. Getting the same manufacturer and nipple can on the pump can be difficult. The difference in color depends on the pump manufacturer. A black pump was made by TRW and had a W on the bottom line of the tag. Ford Thompson pumps had a F on the middle line of tag and were painted blue.
Both pumps were use in San Jose but I have seen more Ford Thompson Most of the remanufactured pumps are painted black regardless of the manufacturer.
I would recommend having you pump restored if you believe it was original to your car or using pump with out can option so you can retain your tag and nipple configuration.
Good luck with your project. Marty

 

[robert campbell]

I have rebuilt two of them. both using just the kit and keeping my stock can and pump. The leak in 90 percent of them is a gasket between the can and the pressure nipple in the back. It is a paper gasket. Over the years, the paper gasket becomes very brittle and an owner installing the pressure hose does not use a wrench on the nut that tightens the nipple to the can in front the pressure hose connection.

Either in loosening the old pressure hose or tightening the new one, the pressure nipple can spin in the can a bit and the paper gasket just disintegrates.

It is pretty straight forward except for removing the pump pulley. You should use the proper puller and an impact gun to remove it. Get the right tools and it is a fairly simple job.

Rob

 

[TexAg]

Thanks, gang! I think I'll go ahead and start with the kit. The high pressure fitting is where it seems to be leaking.

 

[robert campbell]

Yup, paper gasket....

Rob

 

[retroman99]

Thanks, gang! I think I'll go ahead and start with the kit. The high pressure fitting is where it seems to be leaking.

I took lots of pictures as I took it apart. and 100% agree get the right puller for the pulley. a normal wheel puller doesn't work it needs to wrap around the whole thing because it is on there tight

 

[TexAg]

So, got it apart and replaced all the seals. Good news is that it doesn't leak, and my steering works much better, but the bad news is that it now makes a pretty loud grinding sound when turning... I'm assuming that I cleaned it too well, and now there are new metal parts rubbing.. oh well, I guess I'll just wait until it blows up and buy a new pump..

 

[whodat]

Call Randy at StangersSite
210-687-1313

 

[TexAg]

Thanks, whodat.

I checked his site. Good info. It looks like it was probably leaking more than I realized, and I didn't keep enough fluid in it. :embarass: His description of an overheated pump is exactly what I found when I pulled it apart, and now I have the whine associated with a worn cam pack.

I guess I'll give him a call today to see about a complete rebuild.

 

[whodat]

He did mine and it came back in blue. He also did my steering box. He's not the fastest though.


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