1968 Could this be a problem?

[rvrtrash]

I'd err on the side of caution and replace the key anyway. A couple of bucks to make sure you don't damage the new balancer seems like a deal to me, and it wouldn't take much wear for it to be loose and move around.

Steve

 

[Mosesatm]

Agreed, and since the balancer is off I may as well also replace the timing chain and gears.

 

[robert campbell]

Arlie,
I agree with you. Damper looks like it ws cut. for what reason, I cannot fathom. Depending on which groove the key was in, this could make your engine out of balance slightly. It is supposed to be on line with the flex plate balance.

Anyway, a new damper will solve the problem for sure. Tighten bolt to 100 pounds of the old foot!! Or as Iike to say "about a tight as you can get it without standing on the breaking bar". Easy on the engine stand, not so easy in the car.

Sometimes you need an assitant to jam the flex plate with an appropriate bar. Or back in Neil's day they had a strap wrench to grab the outside of the damper.

Rob

 

[Mosesatm]

The key is pretty well set into the crank so it will need some encouragement.
What is the best encouragement method?

 

[robert campbell]

Arlie,
I have a small cold chisel the seems to be able to get under the "end" of the key. A very careful tap and they seem to pull up. Or a small common screwdriver "carefully" diven in the key way.

Rob

 

[franklinair]

Back in 'Neil's day', he gripped the key firmly with a pair of dikes and wedged the key upwards.

Neil

 

[Mosesatm]

That was back when we called them dikes. Are they still called that today?

 

[franklinair]

Today's PC terminology now refers to them as Diagonal Cutters.

Neil

 

[robert campbell]

side cutters.....

 

[Mosesatm]

So far I've I tried dikes, side cutters, and vice grips. The vice grips actually worked to grab the key but it wouldn't budge.

That key really does not want to come out so if it's that happy there who am I to disturb it?!!!

 

[rvrtrash]

I always put a punch level with the crank and hit the end of the key. If you don't want to try and take it out, at least use a dial caliper and measure the thickness and then verify it's the same as the slot in the balancer. If it's more than one or two thousandths smaller, it will move around and could eventually fail. The fact that it's so difficult to remove suggests that the key has become "peened" in to the keyway and is damaged.

Steve

 

[Mosesatm]

Tried that too.

It appears that the key is actually too tall at the rear so the balancer doesn't slide all the way on. That may be why someone cut a new slot.

When the new balancer arrives I'm going to measure everything and test fit it. If it is too tall in the rear I'll place a jack under the crank then try to tap down the rear of the key a little. I just hate beating on a crank with a hammer, and as badly as the key is stuck it may take some serious blows to move it!!!!

Plan B is to just get the engine rebuilt and let the rebuilder deal with it.

 

[Mosesatm]

<Big Sigh>

Paper towels are great for stopping dirt from falling into the oil pan but the don't do diddly squat when a punch lands on them. But by looking at everything else that's in there it needed cleaning anyway.

 

[robert campbell]

icky!

Rob

 

[Mosesatm]

Ha, you should see the cooling system! It apparently hadn't seen antifreeze for years.