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1968 Distribution Block/Proportioning Valve Restoration

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Have not seen a lot of info on this subject, and spent a few hours this evening tinkering with a few I have ... will use the best for the EXP repli-bute.

In order to get the "innards" out of the block and valve I have seen posts on heat, banging on a block of wood and other such means.

I used a set of old lines, all but one with crimped lines, and one on the end with a grease zerk tapped in. And use a grease gun to squirt the buggers out. I leave the end cap in place, loose, as one took quite a bit of force and I am sure would have launched itself across the garage had the cap not been there.

A photo of the Rube Goldberg setup...



One of the three proportioning valve pistons just refused to come out. So I threaded a very small screw in the hole and then used the gun again. Worked like a charm.



You can see how corroded the inside was.

Once that was done I decided I wanted to re-plate the mount. So how to get it off...??? Dremel and a cutoff disc to the rescue. A few minutes of light cutting on the sides of the press fit and its off...





Then it was time to clean up the parts. Did not do a before on the pistons, but the block is seen here. The pistons were put in my lathe and polished with grey 3M scotch-brite. Stubborn spots got a quick hit with red, then grey.



The block got a buff with steel wool (000) and then a polish with a old toothbrush (very handy items to toss in the garage!) with Autosol.





I tired vinegar/salt solution, ammonia, etc and had to go to the buffing to get them clean. So the finish is probably "too shiny" for some, but what I had to do...

The brackets will go out for zinc dichromate next week. Need to order some kits from WCCC for the block and valve seals as I can't find the ones I bought a while ago and "put in a safe place"! :wink: So it will be a couple weeks before the reassembly is documented.
 
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dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
And can anyone confirm....

The correct finish for the bracket and nut that holds the proportioning valve to the body mount bracket?

S2 - phosphate and oil?
 
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dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Ouch.... $50 for 7 tiny rubber seals, a tiny spring and a copper washer... probably, by weight, more expensive than gold, or platinum...

Complete repro assembly $137

Buy individually, gaskets $50, switch $30, prop valve $60, lines $20, so the main body and bracket (or labor to assemble it) don't cost anything! ... guess they have a captive market and can set the price for repair parts wherever they want... bend over and smile!
 

Ruppstang

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
3,159
Many restorers do not go this deep on restoring components including my self until the last few cars. You pictures showing the internal condition of these parts show why it is time well spent to restore them if you want a car that operates like new.
Marty
 
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dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Yeah, I'm being me and getting into details most "normal" people don't even contemplate.... :wink: As "eye"-gor said in Young Frankenstein.... "Abbey... someone" :tongue:

Nothing like adding this onto the already short schedule to get the EXP done!!!!

I can guarantee two, if not all three, of the units were so gummed up inside there was no way they switch could have been activated.. as the piston was very "comfortable" where it was! :smile:
 
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