1968 Factory Disc brakes

[retroman99]

Im thinking about upgrading my 289 GTCS to front disc brakes. want to keep it as factory as possible. Any thoughts does anybody have a good picture of what the porportioning value /master cyclinder and booster. i see lots of different versions claiming to be orginal what about the one pictured? i have the stock 14 inch wheels and want to stay with that look

 

[Mosesatm]

I'm pretty sure that's the correct one.

 

[CougarCJ]

I am more than sure.

Same for 1968 and 1969. The only way to differentiate is the part number on the tube.

Midland is the correct brake booster, identified with the clamped band around the middle holding the two halves together.

 

[retroman99]

appreciate the help sure seems like i can get all the parts to do the factory version cheaper than buying a conversion kit. just a bit more work getting all the parts are there some parts that are hard to get. I would think not since it's not gt/cs unique

 

[franklinair]

Don't forget that you'll also need a PB brake pedal- they're different (longer).

Neil

 

[CougarCJ]

Don't forget that you'll also need a PB brake pedal- they're different (longer).

Neil

Correct, additionally it is adviseable to also get a disc brake pedal hanger.

Don't forget to replace the brake pedal switch with the disc brake version when changing parts.

 

[retroman99]

Correct, additionally it is adviseable to also get a disc brake pedal hanger.

Don't forget to replace the brake pedal switch with the disc brake version when changing parts.

thank you i was wondering if the pedal hanger was different. Saw the little video on rebuilding the dist block and porportioning valve great job!!. if somebody cant do it after watching that they ought to look for something else to do. What about the brak line routings and attach points for the dist block on the fender does it use the same holes?

 

[CougarCJ]

thank you i was wondering if the pedal hanger was different. Saw the little video on rebuilding the dist block and porportioning valve great job!!. if somebody cant do it after watching that they ought to look for something else to do. What about the brake line routings and attach points for the dist block on the fender does it use the same holes?

Yes, same holes. You will need to change out the hard lines to the front wheels though.
You will need to enlarge an offset hole in the firewall to accommodate the brake booster.

 

[dalorzo_f]

...a disc brake pedal hanger.

???

On my '68 it is the same, just mount to a different spot on the hanger that's already got the hole for the two pedals... converted my S code convertible to factory style discs and no need to swap the mount, just the pedal...

 

[dalorzo_f]

and where's this vidio that is referenced...??

 

[Mosesatm]

Here's a new brake pedal.
http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=562

 

[CougarCJ]

???

On my '68 it is the same, just mount to a different spot on the hanger that's already got the hole for the two pedals... converted my S code convertible to factory style discs and no need to swap the mount, just the pedal...

Drum brake hangers have 4 nutserts in them for mounting to the firewall.
Disc brake hangers have only a single nutsert.

With the addition of a booster, the booster has 3 studs and the brake hanger attaches to those studs with nuts from the passenger compartment. One bolt goes through the booster into the single nutsert of the brake hanger from the engine compartment.

 

[Ruppstang]

Drum brake hangers have 4 nutserts in them for mounting to the firewall.
Disc brake hangers have only a single nutsert.

With the addition of a booster, the booster has 3 studs and the brake hanger attaches to those studs with nuts from the passenger compartment. One bolt goes through the booster into the single nutsert of the brake hanger from the engine compartment.

+1 Marty

 

[retroman99]

Dist block and Porportioning valve

and where's this vidio that is referenced...??

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=9kOCpaFGWGw
hope the link works but the guys from West Coast Cougar (CougarCJ) did it i just found it looking around on their site. Regarding the pedal i have again seen 2 different types one with a bracket welded near the top and one without can anybody tell me the difference. West Coast Cougar has a picture of the one with a bracket

 

[CougarCJ]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=9kOCpaFGWGw
hope the link works but the guys from West Coast Cougar (CougarCJ) did it i just found it looking around on their site. Regarding the pedal i have again seen 2 different types one with a bracket welded near the top and one without can anybody tell me the difference. West Coast Cougar has a picture of the one with a bracket

Thanks for posting the video link, we have put together a small library of short flicks.

I am the Numbers Guy in this video.

Sounds like you are describing 1968 (w/bracket) and 1969 pedal. You can use either one, as long as you use the "J" hook for the booster rod.

I, myself, installed a complete 1970 disc brake system on my GT/CS. A 1970 disc brake pedal needs to use the "Lolly-Pop" booster rod.
In my opinion, the 1970 spindles are supperior in strength to the 1968/69 disc brake spindles. The 1970 casting closely resembles the 1969 Boss 302 spindle. Plus the 1970-73 distribution blocks with built in proportioning valves are easier to come by.

 

[dalorzo_f]

3 stud Midland? All mine have 4...???

All I can say is I removed factory drums/no power on my 68 S code (got scary in the Oakland hills with drums) and bolted in a Midland power booster and power pedal without having to do anything to the hanger.

May be a different part with a few nuts welded into it back-in-the-day but no need to replace it on a '68 to swap from manual to power...

 

[Ruppstang]

You can use the original hanger but you have to knock out the capitured nuts. Marty

 

[di81977]

The one I have sitting around, taking up space in my garage, also has 4. I was told it was taken off a 68 Mustang.

 

[franklinair]

Well, I've read a lot about PDisc conversions on this thread and on many other threads here & other sites. Here's my 2 cents worth: My CS was built with non power drum brakes. I am keeping it original in that respect, but am adding a Power Booster. My reasons for this approach are: 1.)The car will remain in a more original state. 2.)The Booster will give additional stopping power, for safety. 3.)Normal/average driving does not require disc brakes, power or non-power. 4.)Cost- PDisc conversions will be in the $1,000 to $1,500 range. The Power Booster kit for drum brakes is $300+/-, available through most Mustang parts suppliers. 5.)No pedal or brake light switch change required. 6.)While Disc systems are more efficient in heat dissipation and water displacement, MOST collector cars are not driven in these conditions.
I have worked on & repaired PB systems since the 1950's (in my dad's auto repair business) and I live & drive in the mountains of North Carolina. It has been my experience that PDrum systems are quite adequate & safe for normal driving. Now if one is into the racing or competition arenas, the PDisc system would be the way to go. Added performance leads to added cost in both acceleration and stopping power. If you feel the need for additional stopping power, consider what level you need, versus cost, and originality of you car.

Neil

 

[Mosesatm]

Well stated.